Chocolate A Global History Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch the edible series  Edible SeriesEditor:AndrewF.Smith isarevolutionarynewseriesof booksdedicatedtofoodand drinkthatexplorestherichhistoryof cuisine.Eachbookrevealsthe globalhistoryandcultureof onetypeof foodorbeverage. Alreadypublished Curry ColleenTaylorSen Pancake KenAlbala Cheese AndrewDalby Pie JanetClarkson Hamburger AndrewF.Smith Pizza CarolHelstosky HotDog BruceKraig Spices FredCzarra Forthcoming Beer BobSkilnik Lobster ElisabethTownsend Bread WilliamRubel Milk HannahVelten Cake NicolaHumble Olive FabriziaLanza Caviar NicholaFletcher Pasta KanthaShelke Champagne BeckySueEpstein Porridge OliverB.Pollak Cocktails JosephM.Carlin Potato AndrewF.Smith Coffee JonathanMorris Soup JanetClarkson Corn LindaMurrayBerzok Tea HelenSaberi Dates NawalNasrallah Tomato DeborahA.Duchon FishandChips PanikosPanayi Vodka PatriciaHerlihy Gin LesleyJacobsSolmonson Whiskey KevinR.Rosar IceCream LauraWeiss Wine MarcMillon Chocolate A Global History Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch   ForAnthonyandKathy PublishedbyReaktionBooksLtd GreatSuttonStreet London, www.reaktionbooks.co.uk Firstpublished Copyright©SarahMossandAlexanderBadenoch Allrightsreserved Nopartof thispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrieval system,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic, mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,withouttheprior permissionof thepublishers. PrintedandboundinChinabyC&COffsetPrintingCo.,Ltd BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Moss,Sarah. Chocolate:aglobalhistory.–(Edible) .Chocolate–History. .Chocolateindustry. .Cookery(Chocolate) I.Title II.Series III.Badenoch,Alexander. .- : Contents 1 Inventing Chocolate  2 The Chocolate House  3 The Chocolate Factory  4 The Chocolate Box  Recipes  References  Select Bibliography  Websites and Associations  Acknowledgements  Photo Acknowledgements  Index  1 Inventing Chocolate Chocolate is complicated. The ‘chocolate tree’, Theobroma cacao,growsonlywithintwentydegreesof theequator,only belowabout,feet( m)inaltitude.Itrequiresshade, which must be provided by taller trees, and humidity, and a temperaturethatremainsabovesixteendegreesCelsius,all of which mean that it does not grow within thousands of miles of the countries that consume the most chocolate. The tree does not take well to being farmed, and is prone to diseases which destroy entire plantations in a few weeks. It depends on midges, which breed best on the floors of uncultivatedrainforests,forpollination.Thecocoabean,a podwhichgrowsoutof thetree’strunk,mustbeharvested with a carefully wielded machete to avoid damaging the buds from which more beans will grow, and the process of converting the resultant wrinkly pod into the shiny brown barsweeatislongerandmoreexactthananyotherinculi- nary history, involving a mixture of hand-work and high technology which do not exist in the same economy and, ideally, time spent in at least two climates; the warm, damp environment where it grows and the arid heat required for drying. The chocolate we know is intrinsically modern, the productof aworlddividedbetweenlow-paidmanuallabour  Cocoatree. andmechanizedfoodpreparation,betweenhungrylabourers and sleek consumers, and between the ecologically rich Equatorialnationsandtheeconomicpowersof Europeand NorthAmerica.Itcouldnotexist,initsfamiliarform,inany otherera. 