ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Once more, thanks are due first to the Chez Panisse cooks I asked to help me set recipes down on paper for this volume, especially Kelsie Sue Kerr, now a chef in the restaurant downstairs, and Samantha Greenwood Wood, a former anchor of the dessert kitchen; both of them helped shape the book’s contents from the beginning. Recipes also came to us from Tracy Bates, Mary Canales, Patricia Curtan, Sarah Egri, Carly Meyer, Jean-Pierre Moullé, Charlene Nicholson, Gilbert Pilgram, Tasha Prysi, Jehnee Rains, Charlene Reis, Alan Tangren, David Tanis, and Anthony Tassinello—all present or former Chez Panisse cooks without whose dedication Chez Panisse could not survive. Our gratitude extends to four great contributors from outside the restaurant: Marion Cunningham, Carol Field, Niloufer Ichaporia, and Shirley Sarvis. The essays about individual fruits are largely the work of my collaborator, Alan Tangren, the pastry chef at Chez Panisse, whose career at the restaurant has taken him from an early beginning in our kitchens to many years as our “forager —our procurement officer, so to speak, and as such, the person responsible for forging our relationships with the scores of mostly local growers and suppliers who bring us the beautiful ingredients that, as we boast on our menu, are almost without exception organically grown and sustainably produced. My other collaborator, Fritz Streiff, has once again served as my editorial mouthpiece and mastermind, testing, correcting, writing, and rewriting at every stage of the project. For their generosity with their expertise, our hearty thanks to Ernie and Chris Bierwagen, Ray Copeland, Darrell Corti, Al Courchesne, Bill Fujimoto, David Karp, C. Todd Kennedy, Andy Sarhanis, Didar Singh, Jonathan and Lucy Tolmach, and Sue at the Racha Café. As always, my partner, Lindsey Shere, has been a particular inspiration to me. Pastry chef for twenty-six years, she tested recipes and made suggestions that were especially welcome; and the immense influence of her esthetics and perfectionism on her successors is reflected everywhere in this book. Warm thanks are also owed to the other recipe testers and tasters, among them Thérèse Shere, Yoon Ki Chai, Tomas Salis, Nancy Satoda, and numerous other friends and relatives. And I would especially like to thank Cristina Salas-Porras for her invaluable help in coordinating the logistics of the entire project. Probably most important of all, Chez Panisse Fruit owes the extraordinary beauty and serenity of its illustrations and the clarity and just proportions of its design to Patricia Curtan, who also helped conceive the book almost eight years ago. Lastly, this book could never have been brought to fruition without the understanding of our editor, Susan Friedland; we thank her again for her enthusiasm, her acumen, and her patience. CONTENTS Acknowledgments Introduction About the Illustrations APPLES Applesauce Curly Endive Salad with Celery Root, Apples, and Pecans Spit-Roasted Pork with Onion-and-Apple Marmalade Cabbage Salad with Apples and Walnuts Poulet à la Normande Sautéed Duck Foie Gras with Caramelized Apples Calvados Apple Custard Tart Apple Paste Pink Pearl Apple Galette Green Apple Sherbet APRICOTS Middle Eastern–Style Lamb Stew with Dried Apricots Lulu’s Apricot Compote with Green Almonds Apricot Soufflés Dried Apricots Apricot Galette Apricot Jam Apricot Hazelnut Tart BANANAS Fried Plantains Caramelized Red Banana Tartlets Banana Fritters with Rum Honey Syrup Banana Waffles BLACKBERRIES Peach and Blackberry Crostata Blackberry and Gravenstein Apple Galette Blackberry Jelly Blackberries in Rose Geranium–Red Wine Syrup BLUEBERRIES Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes Blueberry and Lemon Tart BOYSENBERRIES, LOGANBERRIES, OLALLIEBERRIES, AND THEIR RELATIVES Boysenberry Jam Boysenberry Soup with Bitter Almond–Flavored Parfait and Elberta Peaches Domed Berry Cake Olallieberry Cobbler CAPE GOOSEBERRIES OR POHA BERRIES CHERRIES Roasted Duck with Cherries Cherry Soup à la Maxim’s Brandied Cherries Pickled Cherries Cherry Clafoutis Sour Cherry Pie CITRON Sautéed Scallops with Citron Panforte Shaved Citron Salad Candied Citron CRANBERRIES Cranberry Upside-Down Cake Cranberry Walnut Tart Raw Cranberry Relish CURRANTS: RED, WHITE, AND BLACK Cumberland Sauce Pickled Currants Squab Salad with Pickled Currants and Watercress Currant Jelly Black Currant Ice Cream Frosted Red Currants Summer Pudding DATES Moroccan Chicken with Dates Stuffed Dates FIGS Anchoïade with Figs Fig and Grape Salad with Pancetta Crostini Quail Salad with Roasted Fig Vinaigrette Grilled Bacon-Wrapped Figs Dried Figs Poached in Red Wine Fig Cookies Baked Black Mission Figs with Lavender Honey Ice Cream Fig and Raspberry Galette with Chartreuse GRAPES Zinfandel Grape Schiacciata Verjuice Sardine Pasta with Fennel and Raisins Grapes Roasted in a Wood Oven Fresh Grape Juice Sicilian-Style Swordfish Stuffed with Currants and Pine Nuts Raisin Shortbread Cookies Concord Grape Sherbet GRAPEFRUIT, PUMMELOS, AND THEIR RELATIVES Vin de Pamplemousse Grilled Salmon with Citrus Sauce Citrus Risotto alla Regaleali Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and Spring Onion Salad Candied Grapefruit Peel HUCKLEBERRIES Apple Huckleberry Crisp Grilled Squab with Huckleberry Sauce Huckleberry Ice Cream KIWIFRUIT Spring Fruit Compote with Kiwifruit Sherbet and Coconut Meringue Kiwifruit Sherbet KUMQUATS Endive and Kumquat Salad Gilbert’s Spring Onion and Kumquat Relish Candied Kumquat Ice Cream and Meyer Lemon Sherbet Tartlets Candied Kumquats Kumquats and Prunes with Crème Fraîche Kumquat Marmalade LEMONS Meyer Lemon Lemonade Crab Salad with Meyer Lemon, Endive, and Watercress Meyer Lemon Relish Moroccan Preserved Lemons Judy’s Deep-Fried Lemons and Artichokes Meyer Lemon Sherbet LIMES Samantha’s Lime and Mint Cocktail Silver Limeade Scallop Ceviche Halibut Tartare with Lime, Coriander, and Shallots Chinese Watermelon Radishes with Salt and Lime Key Lime Meringue Pie LOQUATS Sicilian Loquat Compote Catherine’s Loquat Sauce MANDARINS AND TANGERINES Crêpes Suzette with Pixie Tangerine Sherbet Tangerine and Chocolate Semifreddo Clementine Sherbet in Its Shell à la Norvégienne Tangerine Soufflés Sliced Mandarins with Lavender and Honey MANGOS Mango Salsa Mango Salad with Hot Pepper Green Mango Salad with Shrimp and Avocado Mango Sherbet with Tropical Fruit Macédoine Mango with Sauternes MELONS Pickled Watermelon Rind Melon Gelato Watermelon Agua Fresca Melon as a First Course MULBERRIES Mulberry Sherbet Mulberry Ice Cream NECTARINES Pistachio-Stuffed Nectarines Preserved Nectarines Nectarine and Blackberry Crisp White or Yellow Nectarine Sherbet ORANGES Dried Orange Peel Grilled Duck Breast with Seville Orange Sauce Blood Orange and Beet Salad Candied Orange Peel Dipped in Chocolate Blood Orange Sponge Cake Tart Candied Orange and Almond Tart Orange Ice Cream Blood Orange Tartlets with Caramel PAPAYAS Tropical Fruit Sherbet PASSION FRUIT Passion Fruit Sherbet Passion Fruit Soufflés PEACHES Pickled Peaches Grilled Cured Duck Breast with Pickled Peaches Vin de Pêche Peach Melba Peach Pie Peach and Raspberry Gratin Peach Shortcake Almond Tartlets with Peaches Peach Leaf Parfait PEARS, EUROPEAN AND ASIAN Butternut Squash and Pear Purée Asian Pear and New-Crop Walnut Salad Upside-Down Pear and Red Wine Tart Wine-Poached Pears with Warm Chocolate Fondant Pear-Shaped Pear Tartlets Pears Poached in White Wine Spiced Pears Marsala-Baked Pears PERSIMMONS Fuyu Persimmon Salad with Pomegranates, Belgian Endive, and Walnuts Salad of Persimmons, Pears, and Pomegranates with Wine Grape Vinaigrette Persimmon Cookies Persimmon Pudding Dried Persimmons PINEAPPLES Ginger Pineapple Upside-Down Cake Pineapple Frangipane Tart PLUMS AND PLUOTS Rabbit Stew with Prunes Pork Loin Stuffed with Wild Plums and Rosemary Tea-Poached Prunes Prune-Armagnac Ice Cream Wild Plum Jam Plum Paste Santa Rosa Plum Tart POMEGRANATES Rocket Salad with Pomegranates and Toasted Hazelnuts Grilled Quail with Pomegranates and Curly Endive