explores ..... Castles of Great Britain Volume One Linda Lee & Laurie Jonas THE HERITAGE TRAIL explores ..... Castles of Great Britain Volume One Written by Linda Lee Photographs by Laurie Jonas www.theheritagetrail.co.uk The home of British heritage on the web published by HERITAGE TRAILPUBLICATIONS LTD England Copyright © 2004 Heritage Trail Publications Ltd Linda Lee &Laurie Jonas All rights reserved Trademarks: Multimap is a trademark of Multi Media Mapping Limited Other titles in the series Castles of Great Britain Vol II Castles of Great Britain Vol III Abbeys &Priories of Great Britain Vol I Abbeys &Priories of Great Britain Vol II Cathedrals of Great Britain Stately Homes of Great Britain Vol I Manor Houses of Great Britain Vol I Notable Houses of Great Britain Vol I ISBN 1-904877-00-1 Coverillustration The impressive gatehouse at Carisbrooke Castle, Isle of Wight Table of Contents Introduction 5 Aberystwyth Castle 8 Bamburgh Castle 10 Beeston Castle 13 Caernarfon Castle 15 Caerphilly Castle 18 Carisbrooke Castle 21 Carlisle Castle 24 Colchester Castle 27 Conwy Castle 29 Corfe Castle 32 Dartmouth Castle 35 Deal Castle 38 Dover Castle 41 Launceston Castle 44 Lincoln Castle 47 Llawhaden Castle 49 Middleham Castle 51 Orford Castle 54 Pembroke Castle 57 Pevensey Castle 60 Portchester Castle 63 Prudhoe Castle 66 Rochester Castle 69 Scarborough Castle 72 St Mawes Castle 74 Tattershall Castle 77 The Tower of London 80 Tintagel Castle 83 Warwick Castle 86 Windsor Castle 89 4 Introduction Although various types of fortification existed well before the Norman invasion, this book provides a taste of those classified as ‘true’ castles built between the eleventh and seventeenth centuries in England and Wales. The purpose-built south coast defences of Henry VIII are a bit of an anomaly, but examples of these are included for their diversity. Scottish castles will be dealt with separately in a future edition as they are too numerous to mention here. Of the several thousand castles built throughout Great Britain, the majority fall within two basic layouts – either a fortified great tower, or a fortified enclosure. Some were a combination of these two elements, and a good number of early castles were later developed into other forms such as shell enclosure castles. The earliest type of castle is commonly referred to as ‘motte and bailey’, and these defensive structures were literally thrown up in their hundreds with the arrival of the Normans. Consisting of a mound of earth, flattened at the top to accommodate a timber tower, and having a piece of land at the foot of the mound (the bailey) encircled by a deep ditch, this simple castle became the template from which many of the first stone castles developed. Mottes or mounds are still very much in evidence at many castles around the country, and this distinctive feature is often a good indication when trying to date the castle’s origins. Towards the end of the eleventh century, the first stone castles were erected based around a ‘great tower’ or three-storey fortified house. At this time, castle building became as individual as the builders involved, using the local craftsmen and materials available, and adapting the designs to fit the limitations of the building site. The first, and largest great stone tower, was erected at Colchester. Originally rising to four storeys, this enormous 5 structure was considerably reduced in height when the top two storeys were demolished during the seventeenth century. Less than 100 years after the great tower was completed, the unique multangular tower at Orford was built, and survives today in a remarkable state of preservation. The trend to build a ‘great tower’ as the central feature of the overall castle plan proved to be a successful format, the vertical structure being utilised as both a comfortable family residence and a virtually impregnable ‘safe house’in times of threat. Development of early fortified enclosures also took place, these becoming known as shell enclosure castles, and a splendid example of this arrangement is at Restormel Castle where a twelfth century enclosure was added to the existing eleventh century motte. Awhole new chapter of castle building emerged in Wales when Edward began his ambitious programme in the latter part of the thirteenth century. His castles were purpose-built, the sole aim being to impose his presence and power upon the Welsh. To realise his grand visions he employed the skills of an outstanding military architect to supervise the works. Master James of St George was a noted castle builder in Europe, having gained experience in every aspect of the work from designing to engineering. Edward’s vast operation was planned in two stages. Firstly, ten major new castles were to be erected, followed by four lesser castles and some remodelling of existing Welsh-built castles. His colossal workforce comprised in the region of 10,000 men, labourers and craftsmen being drafted in from all over England to build these daunting fortresses. It was a staggering achievement, and one that was never repeated. Despite the concentration of Norman and Edwardian castles in Wales, a scattering of Welsh castles originating from the time of Llywelyn the Great can still be found. From the mid-fourteenth century until the mid-sixteenth century some 100 new castles were erected throughout England and Wales, all individually built for noblemen and landowners. Designs 6 varied considerably but most of the structures did display some common features. Many were quadrangular in plan, had corner towers set within the curtain walls, and were surrounded by water. Unsurprisingly, several also retained the three or four-storey tower building, and a gatehouse, but the apartments were now generally to be found in separate two-storey ranges. It was during this time that the transition from a military-style fortress to a relatively comfortable fortified home became more apparent. Ornate carvings, ‘mock’ defensive features, large windows, and even bricks, were incorporated into later castles, aptly demonstrating that they could be not only stylish and comfortable but also practical. However, this certainly did not signify that the need for military fortifications had ceased altogether. In the 1480s Dartmouth Castle was built with the most advanced fortifications in England. Throughout the Middle Ages the Crown owned more castles than it could maintain and, as a direct consequence, many were simply left to decay. As the country settled into more peaceful times, castles that had fared less well in the preceding years were pulled down, or became used as local quarries. Many others were adapted as country mansions for the aristocracy, and this is possibly why Sir Edward Coke proclaimed in 1623 that “an Englishman’s home is his castle”. Of course it is not possible to see every surviving castle. Many are still privately owned, but there are hundreds that remain publicly accessible in many guises, including spectacular ruins, delightful country mansions, town museums, and courthouses. 7 Aberystwyth Castle In the marvellous sweep of Cardigan Bay stand the ruins of one of Edward I’s late thirteenth century castles. Of the seven major English strongholds he established in Wales, Aberystwyth has fared least favourably in the survival stakes. Now little more than a few fragmented chunks of masonry displayed in a well-kept public park, the castle has lost its imposing hold on the town. At one time guarded by one of the largest Iron Age forts in West Wales, Aberystwyth has been a place of strategic importance throughout history. The first Norman castle, built on a site further south, was begun by Gilbert de Clare but this has long since disappeared, having been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times during 200 years of political and family feuding. When Edward I 8 begun his castle in 1277, overseen by his brother Edmund, it was a magnificent lozenge-plan concentric building of two stone curtain enclosures, flanked by sturdy round towers. Each curtain had a twin-towered gatehouse, the smaller outer gate leading to a barbican, and the inner gatehouse a substantial fortress with domestic accommodation. Excavations have revealed that a great hall stretched from this gatehouse to the south tower of the inner curtain, some 60ft long (18.3m) and 42ft wide (12.8m). Even before the building work had been completed, Aberystwyth Castle was destroyed in an attack from Welsh patriots in 1282. The rebuild was supervised by Master Giles of St George, taking a further eight years and vast sums of money. For over 100 years the castle enjoyed a relatively peaceful existence but, in 1403, the castle was captured by Owain Glyndwr. It was briefly restored to the Crown, only to be re-captured by Glyndwr who held it for another five years. It was finally regained by Henry of Monmouth in 1409. Subsequently, with peace restored, Aberystwyth became less significant and was left to deteriorate. Royalists held the position during the Civil War but, following a surrender in 1646, Cromwell ordered the castle to be dismantled. Open: OS Grid Ref: SN 579816 Any reasonable time Aberystwyth Free site Ceredigion West Wales Tel : n/a Managed by Aberystwyth Council Web site : www.aberystwyth.com Find exact location using Multimap 9 Bamburgh Castle Dominating a coastal stretch of Northumberland, this substantial castle is sturdily embedded on a rocky outcrop some 150ft (45.5m) above the beach. Bamburgh Castle began as a Saxon stronghold but the history of the site goes back further than the Romans, and many romantic legends have been associated with it. Early records identify the castle as ‘Bebbanburgh’, the seat of the kings of Bernicia, besieged twice by the Mercian King Penda. Even 1500 years ago the castle remained impregnable against attack, and had it not been for the capture of the Earl of Northumberland outside of the castle, William the Conqueror may never have taken Bamburgh in 1095. Few traces of its Norman origins are obvious today as it has been considerably altered over many centuries. Only the great tower or keep bears all the traditional features of Norman architecture externally, although the precise date of construction is uncertain. Some fragmented remains of early stone work in the curtain walls also date from this period, but the majority is a modern restoration. Throughout its turbulent past Bamburgh Castle has received many 10