P D F Canada PDF ebook Edition 13th Edition Release Date April 2017 Pages 896 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to use this book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Canada Yukon Territory p770 Nunavut Northwest p813 Territories p793 British Newfoundland Columbia & Labrador p632 Alberta p459 p558 Mapn5i1t3oba Québec Prince Edward p225 Island Saskapt5c3h6ewan Ontario New p433 p62 Brunswick Nova p391 Scotia p330 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Korina Miller Kate Armstrong, James Bainbridge, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, John Lee, Carolyn McCarthy, Phillip Tang, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Benedict Walker P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Canada . . . . . 6 ONTARIO . . . . . . . . . . 62 QUÉBEC . . . . . . . . . . 225 Canada Map . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Toronto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Montréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Niagara Peninsula . . . . .118 The Laurentians . . . . . .258 Canada’s Top 25 . . . . . . . 10 Niagara Falls . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Québec City . . . . . . . . . .272 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 24 Niagara Peninsula Wine Charlevoix . . . . . . . . . . .291 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Baie St Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Niagara-on-the-Lake . . . . 127 Île Aux Coudres . . . . . . . . 293 Southwestern La Malbaie . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Month by Month . . . . . . . 31 Ontario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Saguenay . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 South Shore . . . . . . . . . 302 Guelph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Scenic Drives & Gaspé Peninsula . . . . . . 308 Train Trips . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Kitchener-Waterloo . . . . . 135 Parc National de la Travel with Children . . . . 52 Stratford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Gaspésie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Lake Huron Shoreline . . . 142 Forillon National Park . . . 313 Regions at a Glance . . . . 57 London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Gaspé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Lake Erie Shoreline . . . . . 150 Matapédia Valley . . . . . . . 318 Muskoka Lakes . . . . . . . 154 North Shore . . . . . . . . . .319 Georgian Bay . . . . . . . . . 158 Mingan Archipelago DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © PMPCBBNeaolroiuudnrlrlercleitayn ehtM nga SePdwnoore ugno&unun on iOit nddsans hi . &unte .a lna . . re . . . io . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111116556698271 NÎFAJNlaaebaumrsitnt i Niaoedbvsnoeii- arkT Bllté . a ahPm . y Ma . . . ir . .s .ak . .c .d . . . a .e . . .m .l . . . .ei . . .n .i . . .ng . . . .eu . . . . . e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333333222222498277 The Outaouais . . . . . . . . 329 Killarney Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 167 Gatineau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Sudbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 TOTEM POLE, HAIDA GWAII Lake Superior NOVA SCOTIA . . . . . 330 P761 Shoreline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Halifax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Thunder Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Dartmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 North Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Peggy’s Cove . . . . . . . . . . . 348 RON W Eastern Ontario . . . . . . 187 South Shore . . . . . . . . . 349 ATTS / GETTY IMAGES © APHPKeralagotwloeivbanrinubrqtcrouhtiraoiaonlns u P . gHa .hi .rg k .&h . . l . .at . .hn . .ed . . s . . . . . . . . . . . 111989271 FAYAarcnerannmdacoiphau onStlh hiSs . o . hVr .oea . . rl . .el . .es . . .y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333365550877 Land O’ Lakes . . . . . . . . . . 193 Annapolis Royal . . . . . . . . 363 Prince Edward County . . . 194 Wolfville & Grand Pré . . . 364 Kingston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Central Nova Scotia . . . 368 Thousand Islands . . . . . . . 202 Maitland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 FORILLON NATIONAL PARK Ottawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369 P313 Contents Sunrise Trail . . . . . . . . .373 Northeastern New Deer Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 Pictou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Gros Morne New Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Caraquet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 492 Antigonish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Bathurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 St Barbe to L’Anse aux Campbellton . . . . . . . . . . . 432 Meadows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 Cape Breton Island . . .377 Western Ceilidh Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 499 Cabot Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 PRINCE EDWARD Corner Brook . . . . . . . . . . 499 The Far North . . . . . . . . . . 383 ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . 433 Blomidon Mountains . . . . 502 North Sydney . . . . . . . . . . 385 Charlottetown . . . . . . . . 436 Cape Ray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504 Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Eastern Prince Edward Killick Coast . . . . . . . . . 505 Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .444 Eastern Shore . . . . . . . . 389 Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . 506 Wood Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 444 Labrador Straits . . . . . . . . 506 Souris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 NEW BRUNSWICK . 391 Northern Coast . . . . . . . . . 510 Central Prince Edward Fredericton . . . . . . . . . .393 Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448 Labrador West . . . . . . . . . 512 Upper St John Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448 River Valley . . . . . . . . . . 399 Prince Edward Island MANITOBA . . . . . . . 513 Grand Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . .401 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 448 Winnipeg . . . . . . . . . . . . 515 Edmundston & Around . . 401 New Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . 452 Lower Fort Garry . . . . . . . 526 Western Fundy Shore . . 402 New London . . . . . . . . . . . 453 Oak Hammock Marsh . . . 526 St Stephen . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Western Prince Edward Lake Winnipeg . . . . . . . . 527 St Andrews By-The-Sea . .404 Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 Gimli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 527 Fundy Isles . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Summerside . . . . . . . . . . . 456 Hecla/Grindstone Campobello Island . . . . . . 409 Tyne Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 528 Grand Manan Island . . . . 410 Southeastern Saint John . . . . . . . . . . .412 NEWFOUNDLAND & Manitoba . . . . . . . . . . . .528 Eastern Fundy Shore . . 417 LABRADOR . . . . . . . 459 Whiteshell Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 528 St Martins . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 St John’s . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Fundy National Park . . . . 418 Avalon Peninsula . . . . .473 Western Manitoba . . . .528 Brandon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529 Alma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Baccalieu Trail . . . . . . . . . . 477 Riding Mountain Southeastern New Cape Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . 479 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 529 Brunswick . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Eastern Moncton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 480 Northern Manitoba . . . 530 The Pas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530 Sackville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Bonavista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 Churchill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531 Northumberland Burin Peninsula . . . . . . . . 483 Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 St-Pierre & Miquelon . . 484 Cape Jourimain . . . . . . . . 424 SASKATCHEWAN . . 536 Central Shediac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Newfoundland . . . . . . . . 487 Regina . . . . . . . . . . . . . .539 Bouctouche . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Gander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Southern Miramichi River Fogo Island & Saskatchewan . . . . . . . . 544 Valley Area . . . . . . . . . . .427 Change Islands . . . . . . . . . 490 Moose Jaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544 Miramichi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Grand Falls-Windsor . . . . . 491 Ogema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545 Miramichi River Valley . . . 428 Northern Peninsula . . . 492 Swift Current . . . . . . . . . . 546 ON THE ROAD Val Marie & Grasslands National Park . . . . . . . . . . 547 QEYVSNSToeahaauorrsess’rAket kkttBgpehoaaiaprennttnte . .ocr t ln . .holSlee . . enaf . . owV s . . .raka . .d .l . .anl .se . . . .t .yc . . . . . . . . . h . . . . . . .e . . . . . .w . . . . . . .a . . . . . . . . . .n . . . . . . 555555554554450069968 PHUNG CHUNG CHYANG / SHUTTERSTOCK © Prince Albert National Park . . . . . . . . . . 556 AURORA VILLAGE P800, YELLOWKNIFE ALBERTA . . . . . . . . . 558 Bowen Island . . . . . . . . . 667 Okanagan Valley . . . . . . 724 Edmonton . . . . . . . . . . .562 Sea To Sky Highway . . . 668 Osoyoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 728 West of Edmonton . . . . . . 573 Squamish & Around . . . . . 668 Vaseaux Lake . . . . . . . . . . 730 Calgary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574 Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . .670 Kelowna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 734 Banff & Jasper National Parks . . . . . . . 586 Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . 677 Vernon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739 Kananaskis Country . . . . 586 Roberts Creek . . . . . . . . . . 678 The Kootenays & Canmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589 Sechelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 679 The Rockies . . . . . . . . . . 741 Revelstoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741 Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . 591 Vancouver Island . . . . .681 Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594 Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 681 Golden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 745 Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 Southern Vancouver Yoho National Park . . . . . 747 Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 693 Kootenay National Park .749 Southern Alberta . . . . .614 Nanaimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 698 Radium Hot Springs . . . . 750 Dinosaur Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 624 Pacific Rim National Fernie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 Head-Smashed-In Park Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 703 Rossland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 753 Buffalo Jump . . . . . . . . . . 624 Tofino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 704 Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 753 Writing-on-Stone Ucluelet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707 Cariboo, Chilcotin & Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 627 Denman & the Coast . . . . . . . . . . . .756 Waterton Lakes Hornby Islands . . . . . . . . . 709 Wells Gray National Park . . . . . . . . . . 627 Campbell River . . . . . . . . . 711 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 757 Northern Alberta . . . . . 630 Southern Gulf Bella Coola Valley . . . . . . . 758 Mackenzie Highway . . . . . 631 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716 Northern Lake District . . . . . . . . . . . 631 Salt Spring Island . . . . . . . 716 British Columbia . . . . .759 Galiano Island . . . . . . . . . . 720 Haida Gwaii . . . . . . . . . . . . 761 Saturna Island . . . . . . . . . 720 Prince George . . . . . . . . . . 766 BRITISH COLUMBIA . . . . . . . . 632 Fraser & Thompson Alaska Highway . . . . . . . . 769 Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 721 Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . .633 EC Manning YUKON TERRITORY 770 Lower Mainland . . . . . . 664 Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 721 Burnaby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664 Fraser River Canyon . . . . 722 Whitehorse . . . . . . . . . .773 New Westminster . . . . . . . 665 Kamloops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 723 Alaska Highway . . . . . .778 Contents UNDERSTAND Haines Highway . . . . . .782 NUNAVUT . . . . . . . . 813 Canada Today . . . . . . . .826 Klondike Highway . . . . . 783 Iqaluit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 815 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 828 Carcross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 783 Baffin Region . . . . . . . .819 Aboriginal Cultures . . .839 Stewart Crossing . . . . . . . 784 Auyuittuq National Dawson City . . . . . . . . .785 Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 820 Outdoor Activities . . . .843 Dempster Highway . . . . 791 Cape Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . 821 Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847 Arctic Parks . . . . . . . . . . 792 Resolute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822 Cuisines of Canada . . . 851 Quttinirpaaq National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822 Wine Regions . . . . . . . .853 NORTHWEST TERRITORIES . . . . . 793 Kivalliq Region . . . . . . .823 Rankin Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . 823 Yellowknife . . . . . . . . . .796 Ukkusiksalik National Ingraham Trail . . . . . . . . . . 803 Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 824 North Slave . . . . . . . . . . 803 Naujaat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .824 Highway 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 803 Kitikmeot Region . . . . . 824 South Slave . . . . . . . . . . 804 Cambridge Bay . . . . . . . . . 824 SURVIVAL Mackenzie Highway . . . . . 804 GUIDE Fort Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 805 Wood Buffalo National Park . . . . . . . . . . 806 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .856 Deh Cho . . . . . . . . . . . . .807 Transportation . . . . . . . 867 Nahanni National Park Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 808 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 876 Liard Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 883 Sahtu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .810 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 894 Norman Wells . . . . . . . . . . 810 Western Arctic . . . . . . .810 Inuvik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 810 Tuktoyaktuk . . . . . . . . . . . . 812 Banks Island . . . . . . . . . . . 812 SPECIAL FEATURES Road Trips & Aboriginal Cultures . . .839 Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . .44 Outdoor Activites . . . . . 843 Travel with Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847 Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Cuisines of Canada . . . 851 Canada’s National Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 615 Wine Regions . . . . . . . .853 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Welcome to Canada Canada is more than its hulking- mountain, craggy-coast good looks: it also cooks extraordinary meals, rocks cool culture and unfurls wild, moose- spotting road trips. The Great Outdoors Foodie Fare The globe’s second-biggest country has an Canada is a local food smorgasbord. If you endless variety of landscapes. Sky-high grazed from west to east across the country, mountains, glinting glaciers, spectral rain- you’d fill your plate like this: wild salmon and forests and remote beaches are all here, velvety scallops in British Columbia, poutine spread across six times zones. It’s the back- (golden fries topped with gravy and cheese drop for plenty of ah-inspiring moments – curds) in Québec, and lobster with a dab of and for a big cast of local characters. That’s melted butter in the Maritime provinces. big as in polar bears, grizzly bears, whales Tastemakers may not tout Canadian food and, everyone’s favorite, moose. the way they do, say, Italian or French fare, The terrain also makes for a fantastic so let’s just call the distinctive seafood, pi- playground. Whether it’s snowboarding quant cheeses, and fresh, seasonal fruits and Whistler’s mountains, surfing Nova Scotia’s veggies our little secret. Ditto for the award- swells or kayaking the white-frothed South winning bold reds and crisp whites produced Nahanni River in the Northwest Territories, from the country’s vine-striped valleys. adventures abound. There are gentler op- tions, too, like strolling Vancouver’s Stanley Artistic Flair Park or swimming off Prince Edward The arts are an integral part of Canada’s Island’s pink-sand beaches. cultural landscape. You’ll find it from the International Fringe Theater Festival (the Captivating Cultures world’s second-largest) in Edmonton to mega Sip a café au lait and tear into a flaky crois- museums like Ottawa’s National Gallery. sant at a sidewalk bistro in Montréal; head Montreal’s Jazz Festival and Toronto’s star- to an Asian night market and slurp noodles studded Film Festival draw global crowds. in Vancouver; join a wild-fiddling Celtic And did you know Ontario’s Stratford party on Cape Breton Island; kayak between Festival is the continent’s largest classical rainforest-cloaked Aboriginal villages on repertory theater? Even places you might Haida Gwaii: Canada is incredibly diverse not automatically think of – say, St John’s or across its breadth and within its cities. Woody Point – put on renowned shindigs (an You’ll hear it in the music, see it in the arts avant-garde ‘sound symposium’ and a big- and taste it in the cuisine. name writers festival, respectively). 7 CHASE DEKKER / GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love Canada By Korina Miller, Writer I’ve traveled to three dozen countries and never found anywhere more beautiful than Canada. And when I’m gone, what do I miss? Flights that take you low over the sky-clawing Rockies. Catching sight of an orca from a ferry deck. Driving across the prairies where wheat blows like an endless sea. Listening to the Tragically Hip on the radio and drinking a good, strong cup of tea. Candy smoked salmon, sharp cheddar cheese and Okanagan wine. A vast- ness that compels you to explore. I’m Canadian and I love Canada. And I’m not even going to apologize for it. 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