Butterflies and Botany of the French Alps Holiday Report for the Mercantour 25 June – 2 July 2016 Led by Roger Gibbons, David Moore, Yiannis Christofides and Nick Bowles Alcon Blue © Geoff Cave Niobe Fritillary © Adrian Greenwings Wildlife Holidays Tel: 01473 254658 Web: www.greenwings.co.uk Email: [email protected] ©Greenwings 2016 Introduction This butterfly and botanical holiday was set in the beautiful Alpes-Maritimes in France, one of the best areas in Europe for butterflies. Our butterfly guide, Roger Gibbons, actively researches the butterflies of the PACA (Provence, Alpes, Côte d’Azur) and submits data to French national and regional conservation databases. Roger was ably assisted by David Moore, veteran of tours here in 2014 and 2015 and Nick Bowles, Chair of Upper Thames Branch of Butterfly Conservation. Yiannis Christofides was our botanical guide. Group members Sandy, Tony, Seàn, Caroline, Lin, Martin, Geoff, Robert, Adrian, Peter C, Peter K, Jeff, and Nigel joined us for this promising week of observing lots of wonderful butterflies in this beautiful part of France. Alpine Landscape © Jeff Mountain Alcom Blue (f) © Geoff Cynthia’s Fritillary © Peter C ©Greenwings 2016 2 Day 1, Saturday 25 June Seàn and Caroline had travelled from Dublin to Nice on the Friday, and, as Nick Bowles, (Chairman of the Upper Thames branch of Butterfly Conservation) had also arrived at Nice on the Friday, he was able to transport Seàn and Caroline to the first location in the Alpes- Maritimes on the Saturday morning. Roger had stayed at the hotel on the Friday night, so when the “advance party” reached our hotel at lunchtime on the Saturday, we were able to explore the area nearby. The remaining guests were met at Nice Airport by David Moore and Yiannis Christofides, and transported to the Hotel. We were by our charming hosts Stéphane and Ludovine who had taken over the hotel some five years earlier. As a preface to the tour, Roger explained that the mountain season was rather late in 2016, so some species which we may have expected to see in normal years may not emerge in time for us to see them. The upside is that there were a number of species which we would not have expected as we would be too late, were still on the wing. Swings and roundabouts, but the list of prospective species had to be adjusted to reflect this. In 2015, just prior to the arrival of the guests, Roger had explored the area which passes close to the hotel and had seen a Southern Comma (Polygonia egea), quite a rarity in France. In 2015, everyone had been granted a view of egea, so this was a first call for this year’s group, although we were not so fortunate this year. However, there was ample compensation in the form of a female Chequered Blue (Scolitantides orion), an iconic and rather localised species of southern France. Given that this species normally emerges in April (maybe a little later at an altitude of 1000m), and the individuals (we saw more on later visits) seen were very fresh, it would appear very likely that this was a second generation. During the short walk we were able to observe the following plants. Red Valerian was particularly common everywhere. Interesting plants seen included Campanula macrorhiza, a relative of the Harebell, Campanula trachelium and Campanula speciosa, the Pyrenean Bellflower. Saxifraga callosa was particularly common on rock faces. Several Sedum species were growing on rock faces, such as Sedum album, S. sediforme. and S. dasyphyllum We enjoyed the excellent evening meal provided by our hosts, including a complimentary aperitif. The pre-prandial period afforded an opportunity to study the photos taken during the day and to hopefully identify some of the more tricky species. This became a regular feature Chequered Blue © Nick Campanula speciosa © Yiannis ©Greenwings 2016 3 of the week, and frequently threw up some interesting surprises. Other species seen today: Mallow, Marbled, Large, Red-underwing, Essex and Small Skipper; Brown Argus, Geranium Bronze, Holly, Small, Osiris, Adonis, Mazarine, Escher’s and Common Blue; Purple-shot Copper, Green Hairstreak, Silver-washed, Weaver’s, Marsh, Glanville and Spotted Fritillary, Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail, Orange Tip, Black- veined White, Berger’s Clouded Yellow, Clouded Yellow, Cleopatra, Brimstone, Wood, White, Large, Green-veined and Bath White, Pearly and Small Heath, Wall and Large Wall, Meadow Brown and Marbled White. Day 2, Sunday 26 June As the group had been travelling on the Saturday, it was decided to stay local to the hotel on day 1 proper, to avoid the need for travelling in vehicles. Stop 1: One of the main butterfly hotspots in the region is the track that leads in a zigzag fashion down behind the hotel for about one kilometre and then stops abruptly. The track tends to be in shade until 10.00 am and so the group set off at around 9.15 in the expectation of seeing species warming up in the early sun and being more amenable for photography. Heath Fritillary (Mellicta athalia) was very common here (and at most other locations) and its numbers and variability both of markings and degree of wear made it challenging to identify other similar-sized fritillaries also flying. A total of 46 species were seen on the track during this visit, a testament to the advantages of seventeen pairs of eyes, although not all species were seen by all members of the group. The fact that the group had to be encouraged to return to the Hotel for lunch at 13.00 was indicative of the diversity and number of species being noted on the track. As had become clear from numerous visits to the track, different species could be found at different spots, often where the larval hostplants were growing, so our interest continued for the entire length of the track. Male Purple-shot Coppers (Lycaena alciphron) were in evidence on the upper part of the track, these being of the southern subspecies gordius with less apparent purple than the nominate form, but still with a lovely bright sheen. On the return back up the track a female gordius was seen, very fresh, perhaps just emerged, and large enough to appear in flight to be a small fritillary. At the mid-point of the track, a large patch of Tufted Vetch (Vicia cracca) grew, and this being the larval hostplant of Amanda’s Blue (Polyommatus amandus), it was not surprising to find both males and females here. The lateness of the season meant that a few Marsh Fritillaries (Euphydryas aurinia) were still flying. This is a species we had not expected to see, and the checklist was amended to include this, as it had been for Chequered Blue earlier. Purple-shot Copper © Sandy & Tony Amanda’s Blue © Sandy & Tony ©Greenwings 2016 4 Provençal Fritillary ©Martin Another bonus of the late season was that a female Provençal Fritillary (Melitaea deione) was seen and photographed by Martin, and we discovered that Jeff had also photographed a fresh male. Plants seen today down this track included Silene alba, White-flowered Campion, Himantoglossum hircinum, Coronilla varia, Buphthalmum salicifolium Linaria repens © Yiannis (Yellow Ox-eye Daisy), Polygala nicaeënsis, Geranium sanguineum, Prunella vulgaris, Trifolium campestre, Medicago lupulina, Dactylorhiza fuchsii, Lilium bulbiferum, Anacamptis pyramidalis, Papaver rhoeas and P. dubium, Lavandula angustifolia and Linaria repens. After lunch, the group meandered up to the ancient hill fort that overlooks the village. The flowery verges were home to a number of butterflies, and had not been so recently and severely strimmed as they had been in 2015. The most interesting finds were at the summit of the hill, where Adrian and Peter C had discovered several Dusky Heaths (Coenonympha dorus) on a heap of discarded wood. A Swallowtail (Papilio machaon) entertained us with its hilltopping behaviour and a single Blue-spot Hairstreak (Satyrium spini) was seen here. More Anacamptis pyramidalis, Himantoglossum hircinum and Sedum acre were seen. Two attractive umbellifers were the masses of Orlaya grandiflora and the stately Laserpitium gallicum. Large Yellow Rest-harrow, Ononis natrix was also common here. To round off the day, the group revisited the GR5 track. There were now a male and a female Chequered Blue and a couple of Marbled Skippers (Carcharodus lavatherae) showed why they are relatively easy to identify in flight as they appear very white. No sign of the Southern Comma, though. Peter C, who arrived at the GR5 track a little later was more fortunate, more so in that egea posed for a photograph. Several members of the group revisited that spot, but sadly egea did not put in a reappearance. Male and female Bath Whites (Pontia daplidice) Dusky Heath © Adrian were seen on this track. ©Greenwings 2016 5 Other species seen today: Mallow, Dingy Large, Red-underwing, Essex and Lulworth Skippers, Brown Argus, Mazarine, Small, Adonis, Escher’s, Common and Chapman’s Blues, Green, Ilex and Sloe Hairstreaks, High Brown, Weaver’s, Marbled, Spotted and Knapweed Marbled Skipper © Martin Fritillaries, Southern White and Red Admirals, Painted Lady, Scarce Swallowtail, Orange Tip, Black-veined, Green-veined, Small and Bath Whites, Great Banded Grayling, Pearly and Small Heaths, Wall and Large Wall, Meadow Brown and Marbled White. It had been a great day in the field. Southern Comma © Peter C View of hotel from the track © Sandy & Tony Day 3, Monday 27 June The plan for the day was to visit the higher reaches of Isola , stopping off at various spots on the way, increasing in altitude, and continuing up the Col de la Lombarde at 2360m. Butterflies tend to become active earlier at lower altitudes, so the plan was to work our way up. Stop 1: The first stop was at a bridge over the river, where the first of several Apollos (Parnassius apollo) were seen, plus the first of several Large Blues (Phengaris - previously Maculinea - arion). We also saw the first Duke of Burgundy (Hamearis lucina) of the tour, this one being reasonably fresh as a testament to the lateness of the season. Plants seen included Trifolium pratense, Vicia cracca, Lathyrus latifolius, Astragalus glycyphyllos with accompanying Small Blue, Digitalis lutea and Anthericum liliago. Stop 2: The next stop was at the curvature of a hairpin bend, where the old road exited. These are ideal locations for butterflies as they are wide tracks now unused by traffic and the flowery verges are generally less strimmed. The number of butterflies seen here, especially Apollos, was significantly less than last year, although a single each of Large Blue, Purple- ©Greenwings 2016 6 shot Copper, Duke of Burgundy, and Scarce Swallowtail (Iphiclides podalirius) maintained the interest levels. New plants seen were Tolpis staticifolia, Lactuca perennis and Digitalis ambigua. Stop 3: From there we moved up to another previously disused road loop. Large Blue was seen here, and we had our first sighting of the high altitude form of Sooty Copper (Lycaena tityrus subalpinus). Purple-edged Coppers (Lycaena hippothoe) were Apollo © Peter C becoming more frequent, including females, which sometimes had a plain but warm brown upperside, and sometimes an orange flush on the forewing. We saw our first of the few Scarce Coppers (Lycaena virgaureae) seen on the tour, similarly the first of three de Prunner’s Ringlets (Erebia triaria), the latter being yet further evidence of the lateness of the season as normally this species would have been finished by now, and it was another that was sufficiently unexpected to have been omitted from the checklist. Plants seen were Dactylorhiza fuchsii, Lychnis flos-jovis, Lilium bulbiferum, Phyteuma nigrum and Veronica alpina. Stop 4: The weather was starting to move against us, with cloud cover increasing, so we decided to miss out the next two planned stops to move up to the Col de la Lombarde while the weather was still butterfly-friendly, as this location provided some very high altitude species on previous trips. Little was flying at the Col, although diligent searching revealed several male Cynthia’s Fritillaries (Euphydryas cynthia) and a single female, all of which were sufficiently torpid in the cool weather to allow everyone a perfect photographic opportunity. The few sightings of other species at Lombarde included a Swallowtail and a near-certain Peak White (Pontia callidice) that, although it did not settle, was seen sufficiently clearly in flight to be included in the records. A host of mostly Alpine plants at this level, including Rhododendron ferrugineum, Astragalus alpinus, Meum athamanticum - umbellifer with fine, scented foliage, Antennaria dioica and Viola bertolonii were seen. Stop 5: Conditions had not continued to deteriorate as once appeared likely, so we were able to make another stop on the descent from Lombarde, where a healthy population of Geranium Argus (Aricia eumedon) had been seen on an extensive patch of its larval hostplant Wood Cranesbill (Geranium sylvaticum) a few days previously. Some twenty eumedon were flying at that spot, this being a species that is almost always seen on its larval hostplant, and the numbers ensured that they were photographable from the edge of the patch. Large Blue © Sandy & Tony Geranium Argus © Geoff ©Greenwings 2016 7 Some of the group demonstrated their indefatigability by making another visit to the hill fort on our return to the hotel, where the only Chapman’s Blue (Polyommatus thersites) of the tour was seen by Adrian and Peter C. Other butterfly species today: Mallow, Dingy Large, Grizzled, Red-underwing, Lulworth, Essex and Small Skippers, Mountain Argus, Small, Mazarine, Silver-studded, Amanda’s, Turquoise and Escher’s Blues, Small Copper, Green and Blue-spot Hairstreaks, Pearl- bordered, Queen of Spain, Heath, Spotted, Knapweed and Glanville Fritillaries, Small Tortoiseshell, Southern White and Red Admirals, Comma, Painted Lady, Swallowtail, Orange Tip, Clouded Yellow, Cleopatra, Brimstone, Wood, Black-veined and Small Whites, Ringlet, Great Banded Grayling, Pearly, Dusky and Small Heaths, Almond-eyed Ringlet, Wall, Large Wall, Marbled White and Meadow Brown. Red-underwing Skipper © Nick Duke of Burgundy © Jeff Day 4, Tuesday 28 June The intention for day 4 was to travel north along the valley, making a stop at Le Bourguet before making the ascent toward the Col de la Bonnette where several stops had been planned en route, possibly to the Col itself. However, the lateness of the season suggested that the emergence of species at the very high altitudes (of 2000m and above) was somewhat retarded, so it was decided to take a view as we ascended, and to add an extra stop at around 1500m. Stop 1: Our first stop was as we went north along the valley at a meadow just north of the hamlet of Le Bourget, not far from the road that leads to the major ski station Auron. The spot was a damp meadow alongside the “old road” – so often a source of good butterfly locations. There we saw a number of False Heath Fritillaries (Melitaea diamina), and a few Ringlets (Aphantopus hyperantus), this latter species being rather scarce and localised in the PACA (Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur) region. We did not see the Scarce Coppers (Lycaena virgaureae) that had been seen at this location on previous trips, and it later transpired that our only sighting of this species would be the ones we saw at Isola. The riverside meadow provided a few new plants including Allium vineale, Centaurea montana, Listera ovalis, Ajuga genevensis and Melampyrum nemorosum. Stop 2: The second stop was at around 1500m, where several tracks led west through flowery meadows. This False Heath Fritillary © Nigel “contingency” location, given the uncertainty ©Greenwings 2016 8 of Bonnette, turned out, as often seems to be the case, to be a star performer, and the group spent some four hours here, exploring the locality. There were a number of species “puddling” – taking salts from damp ground, an exclusively male activity, although females can sometimes be seen taking moisture in dry conditions – including our first sighting of the ubiquitous Safflower Skipper (Pyrgus carthami), a large Pyrgus species seen at most higher altitude locations, often in significant numbers. Soon after arrival, Geoff spotted a Camberwell beauty (Nymphalis antiopa), its outline being unmistakable in flight as it crossed the river. It was also seen by Roger but unfortunately not by any other member of the group as they had dispersed by that time. Safflower Skipper © Peter C Despite waiting at that spot, it did not return. A total of 37 species were seen at this location, including the first of several Mountain Alcon Blues (Phengaris - previously Maculinea - alcon rebeli), also seen by Geoff. Adrian saw a Small Apollo (Parnassius phoebe) here, the only sighting of this species on the trip. This is a species that is almost always seen very close to rushing water. Other species seen for the first time here included Idas Blue (Plebejus idas), very similar to the more familiar Silver- studded Blue (P. argus), although there are several clear distinguishing features, and Lesser Marbled Fritillary (Brenthis ino), this also being a species that is nearly always found near water. This area was particularly rich in fritillaries and Heath, Weaver’s, False Heath, Knapweed, Glanville, Spotted, Marbled, Queen of Spain, and High Brown were seen here, in addition to Lesser Marbled. A very flowery meadow full of species, most of which we had looked at before included Thalictrum foetidum, Stinking meadow rue and Potentilla argentea. Stop 3: We began our ascent of the slopes leading to Bonnette by stopping off at a track at 1980m. Clearly, butterflies were becoming thin on the ground as we increased in altitude, but a female Peak White was seen here, and a female blue that was a highly probable Eros Blue (Polyommatus eros); females of the high altitude blues are much more rarely seen than the males, although the fact that a male Eros was seen nearby was more circumstantial evidence. The alpine meadow had a fine display Eros Blue © Jeff of many new plants including Oxytropis jacquinii, Prunella vulgaris, Gymnadenia conopsea, Phyteuma orbicularis, Asphodelus albus, Veratrum album and Paradisea liliastrum. Other butterflies today: Dingy, Large, Large Grizzled, Red-underwing, Essex and Small Skippers, Sooty Copper, Small, Mazarine, Large, Adonis, Turquoise and Escher’s Blues, Marbled and Knapweed Fritillaries, Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail Orange Tip, Apollo, Berger’s and Clouded Yellows, Wood, ©Greenwings 2016 9 Peak and Mountain Green-veined Whites, Ringlet, de Prunner’s and Almond-eyed Ringlets, Pearly and Small Heaths, Wall and Large Wall Browns and Marbled White. Day 5, Wednesday 29 June This was the day of transferring from the first base to the second base at Saint-Martin- d’Entraunes in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence which was approximately equidistant from our Pearly Heath © Seàn two target areas of the Col des Champs and the Col de la Cayolle. This entailed an interesting journey along the narrow winding roads towards Roubion and Roure. Stop 1: We decided to stop at a small private road leading off a hairpin bend not far from the Col de la Couillole. We had previously seen female Mountain Alcon Blue egg-laying on Cross Gentian (Gentiana cruciata) at this spot on the two previous tours, but the verges had been seriously strimmed, and relatively little was flying here. We did see what was highly likely a rebeli in flight, identification being aided by the elimination of any other candidate. Lesser Butterfly Orchid (Platanthera bifolia) was seen higher up the verges. Strimming of verges seems to be the national pastime in France and it is often undertaken with such zeal that they strim the living daylights out of all the flora and fauna; however, a glimmer of hope is that in many regions, strimming is carried out on roadside verges only to a depth of one metre, or is carried in cycles or rotation. Several woodland orchids were seen here including Lesser Butterfly, Common Spotted, Fragrant, Narrow- leaved Helleborine and Twayblade. Stop 2: This was at a location north of the town of Beuil. It is a particularly rich area of tracks adjacent to a small river, with flower meadows and several patches of damp ground which attracted many butterflies for puddling. The main attraction, however, was a manure heap which had existed there for many years and produced liquid manure at the edges which was an absolute magnet for puddling blues, skippers and fritillaries. Photography was quite viable as the subjects were largely still, although care in where one’s feet were located was an equally important consideration. Roger had visited this spot every year for the past ten years and curiously had never had any Narrow-leaved Helleborine © Nick competition for the photographic rights to this manure heap. 32 species were seen in total at this location. In one patch of the manure heap there were around thirty butterflies puddling in a small group, including our first sighting of the normally-high-altitude Eros Blue (Polyommatus eros) which has a very similar underside to Common Blue (Polyommatus icarus) but has a pale shimmering blue upperside. There were numerous species of blues, the most evident being Amanda’s Blue (Polyommatus amandus) on account of its greater size. Common Blue was conspicuous by its absence. We also had our first sighting here of Mountain Argus (Aricia artaxerxes), an avid puddler, and Chalk-hill Blue (Polyommatus coridon). ©Greenwings 2016 10