 Edible Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith is a revolutionary new series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage. Already published Apple Erika Janik Barbecue Jonathan Deutsch and Megan J. EliasBeef Lorna Piatti-Farnell Beer Gavin D. Smith Brandy Becky Sue Epstein Bread William Rubel Cake Nicola Humble Caviar Nichola Fletcher Champagne Becky Sue Epstein Cheese Andrew Dalby Chocolate Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch Cocktails Joseph M. Carlin Curry Colleen Taylor Sen Dates Nawal Nasrallah Eggs Diane Toops Figs David C. Sutton Game Paula Young Lee Gin Lesley Jacobs Solmonson Hamburger Andrew F. Smith Herbs Gary Allen Hot Dog Bruce Kraig Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss Lemon Toby Sonneman Lobster Elisabeth Townsend Milk Hannah Velten Mushroom Cynthia D. Bertelsen Nuts Ken Albala Offal Nina Edwards Olive Fabrizia Lanza Oranges Clarissa Hyman Pancake Ken Albala Pie Janet Clarkson Pineapple Kaori O’ Connor Pizza Carol Helstosky Pork Katharine M. Rogers Potato Andrew F. Smith Rice Renee Marton Rum Richard Foss Salmon Nicolaas Mink Sandwich Bee Wilson Sauces Maryann Tebben Soup Janet Clarkson Spices Fred Czarra Tea Helen Saberi Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar Wine Marc Millon Brandy A Global History Becky Sue Epstein   Published by Reaktion Books Ltd Great Sutton Street London ,  www.reaktionbooks.co.uk First published  Copyright © Becky Sue Epstein The right of Becky Sue Epstein to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act  All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers Printed and bound in China by Toppan Printing Co. Ltd A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library       Contents Introduction: Luxury Cognacs, Alluring Brandies  1 Alchemy: From Classical Civilizations to Cognac 15 2 Producing Brandy: Distilling and Ageing  3 Cognac Becomes World-famous  4 Armagnac and its Noble History  5 Illustrious Brandies of Europe and the Caucasus  6 Great Spanish and Latin Brandies  7 Australia and South Africa  8 Brandy Made in America  9 Everything You Need to Know about Cognac  10 Cognac Cocktails and 21st-century Trends  11 Small-batch Brandies and Cognacs  Recipes  Select Bibliography  Websites and Associations  Acknowledgements  Photo Acknowledgements  Index  Introduction: Luxury Cognacs, Alluring Brandies No, sir, claret is the liquor for boys; port for men; but he who aspires to be a hero (smiling), must drink brandy. In the first place, the flavour of brandy is most grateful to the palate; and then brandy will do soonest for a man what drinking can do for him. James Boswell, The Life of Samuel Johnson () Today, brandy is back in the limelight. It is cocktail chic. Itis a luxury sipping spirit in thousand-dollar crystal decanters. It is the party drink of celebrities. Yet only a few decades ago, brandy was far removed from this illustrious position. Everyone knows what brandy is – or do they? Brandy is a wonderful, aromatic spirit made by distilling wine. It is usually amber- or mahogany-coloured as a result of its ageing in wooden barrels. Today, the most famous brandies in the United States and Britain are cognac and armagnac, which are produced in two different regions of southern France. Spanish and other brandies are also popular in various parts of the world. Until a few decades ago, expensive brandies were care- fully measured out by the wealthy as after-dinner drinks. Older  people might keep a bottle of basic brandy at the back of a cupboard, for vaguely medicinal purposes. A certain amount of brandy was sold as cheap tipple. But for most of us, brandy simply wasn’t part of our lives. One bright spot remained: cognac, the most famous brandy in the world. Brandies from Cognac have always retained their cachet. When asked, most people have a favourable view of cognac even if they’ve never encountered it. Cognac is the most famous and expensive brandy, a con- cept reinforced again and again by today’s stars. Legendary film director Martin Scorsese has been featured in adverts for Hennessy. The rap music star Ludacris has his own brand, Conjure; Snoop Dogg has endorsed Landy Cognac, and many other successful rappers mention favourite cognacs in their hit songs. In the current high-end bar scene, stylish bar- tenders (now called mixologists) compete in cognac cocktail contests, selecting subtle flavourings to create exceptional drink blends that enhance this elegant, aromatic spirit. Technically, brandies can be distilled from a variety of fruits, but for the purpose of this book, brandy is defined as a spirit made from grape wine. The wine is distilled into a spirit, and then most often aged in wood, which gives brandy its lovely tawny colour. This is what we think of as ‘brandy’. While young brandies can inspire cocktails and relaxation, sipping an aged cognac or brandy is a truly memorable event. We experience a wonderful sense of ease and well-being when a fine spirit of per cent alcohol courses through our bodies. (Medicinal? Perhaps.) As late as the end of the twentieth century, when brandy’s fortunes were in decline, it was cognac that sparked its resur- gence. Until that time, upmarket brandy from Cognac was seen as a drink for prosperous older people – mainly men. Through the middle of the century, it was only considered 