Books That Cook This page intentionally left blank ••••••••••••••••• B ook s Th at Cook The Making of a Literary Meal • Edited by jennifer cognard-black and melissa a. goldthwaite • With a Foreword by marion nestle ••••••••••••••••• a NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London www.nyupress.org © 2014 by New York University All rights reserved All images © Sue Johnson and provided courtesy of the artist References to Internet websites (URLs) were accurate at the time of writing. Neither the author nor New York University Press is responsible for URLs that may have expired or changed since the manuscript was prepared. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Books that cook : the making of a literary meal / edited by Jennifer Cognard-Black and Melissa A. Goldwaite ; with a foreword by Marion Nestle. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-1-4798-3021-3 (cloth) 1. Cooking. 2. Cooking in literature. 3. Food in literature. I. Cognard-Black, Jennifer, 1969– editor of compilation. II. Goldthwaite, Melissa A., 1972– editor of compilation. III. Nestle, Marion, writer of preface. TX714.B64128 2014 641.5—dc23 2014006080 New York University Press books are printed on acid-free paper, and their binding materials are chosen for strength and durability. We strive to use environmentally responsible suppliers and materials to the greatest extent possible in publishing our books. Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To our Books That Cook students, who share our consuming passion for the literatures of food. This page intentionally left blank One wants in a fantastic time the certainty of chicken popping in grease the truth of potatoes. . . . —from “Sunday Dinner” by Lucille Clifton This page intentionally left blank Contents Foreword by Marion Nestle xv Acknowledgments xix Cooking the Book: An Introduction to Books That Cook 1 Jennifer Cognard-Black and Melissa A. Goldthwaite Invocation  Porkchop Gravy: An Invocation (Poem) 15 Bill Kloefkorn Recipe: Porkchop Gravy Part I: Starters 17  From American Cookery (Cookbook) 21 Amelia Simmons Recipes: Various Meats  From Delights and Prejudices (Nonfiction) 29 James Beard Recipes: Superb Chicken Jelly and Versions of Clam Soup  Puffballs: Finding the Inside: From Secrets of the Tsil Café (Fiction) 33 Thomas Fox Averill Recipes: Pawpaws and Yucca Soup  Full Moon Soup with Snow (Poem) 43 April Lindner Recipe: Full Moon Soup ix