B OMARSUND Outpost of Empire Graham Robins This publication is produced by the Åland Board of Antiquities, the Government of the Åland Islands Warm thanks to Annika Dahlblom, Ingela Lönngren, Marcus Lindholm, Charlotte Mäkelä, Åsa Zetterström, Henrik Salminen and Viveka Löndahl. Text and research: Graham Robins Illustrations: Anna-Maaret Pitkänen-Darmark Pictures: Henrik Juslin, Ålands TeknologiCentrum Ålandstidningen / Sebba Södergård Museovaristo, Helsinki Ålandsbanken’s Collections Front cover: Russian Prisoners, Edwin T Dolby Layout: Maria Jonsson Mariehamn 2004 / Mariehamns Tryckeri Bomarsund Outpost of Empire This brochure focuses on the Bomarsund period in Åland’s history, a period which began with war and ended with war. Both times Åland was dragged into a tumult caused by Europe’s warring empires – amongst others, Russia, France, Great Britain and Turkey. The emperors played “the Great Game” and Åland became a trophy that was cast from one to the other. From a Russian perspective Åland would become a military outpost, the westernmost part of the far-fl ung empire. This meant the fortifi cation of the islands and a permanent garrison numbered in thousands. For the fi rst time Åland was governed by a military commander, a senior offi cer in the Russian army. The presence of the military coloured the lives of many Ålanders but it is important to bear in mind that this period was not dominated by war. For 45 years Ålanders lived side-by-side with the Russian military, the consequences of which have left their mark even on today’s Åland. The Russian Period The Russian period on Åland, from 1809 to 1918, can be divided into three. The fi rst period (1809-1854) was dominated by the presence of the Russian military, the second (1855-1905) by their absence. During the third period (1906-1918) Åland was re-militarised. The fi rst two periods created quite different conditions for Ålanders, both socially and economically, which is refl ected by the respective population centres that developed: during the fi rst period, Bomarsund, fortress and garrison town. During the second period, Mariehamn, harbour, trading port and capital of the demilitarised Åland Islands. The Russian eagle on a cannon from Bomarsund. Photograph: Augusto Mendez War 1808-09 It is said that Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte of France, during peace talks at Tilsit in 1807, “gave” Finland and Åland to Alexander, Russia’s Supreme Tsar. That was how things were done in those days. The reason behind this gentleman’s agreement was that Sweden had refused to join the alliance (the Continental System), led by France against Great Britain. The war of 1808-1809 was Sweden’s punishment. At the beginning of the war the Åland Islands lay in the middle of the Swedish kingdom, with the wealthy trading centres of Turku to the east and Stockholm to the west. The last time that war had visited Åland was during the Little Northern War of 1741-1743. Since then three generations of Ålanders had lived on these peaceful islands, living off fi shing, farming and coastal trading. Militarily speaking, Åland had little or no signifi cance for Sweden, lying as it did in the centre of the kingdom. There was not a single soldier on Åland. One year later 4000 elite Russian soldiers would stand on Åland’s soil. This time they had come to stay. 2 Russian Troops Invade In the beginning of April 1808 Åland was overrun by Russian troops. Cossacks patrolled the countryside. The Russians established their headquarters on the island of Kumlinge and the Tsar’s orders were read out from the pulpit. But Russian orders did not fi nd fertile ground amongst the Åland farmers and the whispers of unrest soon grew to a storm wind that, in the summer, drove back the invaders. The Åland population rose against their new rulers and soon managed to capture all of the Russians on Åland’s main island. Following this, the Russian headquarters on Kumlinge were attacked by Åland’s bravest, together with a small Swedish fl otilla. The battle was short and resulted in nearly 500 Russian prisoners. The acclamation was great. The Swedish king landed at Kastelholm Castle and for the time being the future seemed bright. But despite the presence of the King, the generals, and thousands of soldiers, unease dominated on Åland. The villages of the archipelago were burnt to the ground in order to hinder a Russian advance. An attack was expected. In the bleak midwinter, Frosty wind made moan, Earth stood hard as iron, Water like a stone. The sea between Åland’s 6000 islands began to freeze. The ice road lay open. Everyone held their breath and listened. Then they came, 15000, so it is said. Prince Bagration and the great generals, Kulneff with his Cossacks, Stroganoff, Demidoff, Schepeleff, Tutschkoff, Knorring. The ice thundered and the Swedes retreated. Åland was taken. Peace talks were held in Hamina and on the 17th September 1809 it was over. Åland together with Finland had got a Grand Duke, none other than Tsar Alexander himself. The Russians are coming! Detail from a painting by V A Sam 3 Bomarsund is Planned During the peace talks Sweden had pressed for Åland to be demilitarised, but it was Russia that had won and they would decide. Already during 1809 Russian engineers were on Åland, mapping and drawing up a fortifi cation strategy. The Russians expected that an attack would come from the west, so they built successive lines of cannon batteries to guard the main route across Åland. On the eastern side of the main island they planned a great fortifi cation. This would serve as a bridgehead, a fortifi ed point that could The defence of Åland, Museovirasto. Revision: Graham Robins withstand a long siege and be reinforced by Russian forces in Finland. The location also dominated all of the three channels leading into the bay of Lumparn, which gave the fortress control over this natural harbour. One of the channels was called Bomarsund. During the 1810s preparations were made to begin building the fortress of Bomarsund; plans were drawn up, a military hospital was built on the island of Prästö and woodland was cleared. But when the project’s director, 4 Major General Barclay de Tolly, died in 1819 everything ground to a halt. During a visit in 1820 Nicholas Pavlovich, then Grand Duke and inspector of fortresses, decided that the old plans should be abandoned. It would be eight years before Nicholas, then Russia’s tsar, ordered new plans to be drawn up for Bomarsund’s fortifi cation. The Russian Engineers’ Drawings During the 1920s a large number of original drawings of fortifi cations in Finland were found at Suomenlinna, outside Helsinki, amongst them over 1000 concerning Bomarsund. These hand drawn and coloured masterpieces are also planning documents that, amongst other things, provide detailed views of different stages in the building programme, who lived where in the area, and how work on the fortifi cation was proceeding every year. The series covers the entire period but we are aware that an unknown number of drawings are missing. This series constitutes the single most important source of information regarding the Bomarsund period. Façade and Section of Prästö Tower, Museovirasto 5 The faint red lines represent the fi rst plan to fortify Bomarsund, detail from Museovirasto’s map The First Plan The fi rst fortifi cation of the Bomarsund area was based on bastions, a defensive system that began its development during the 1500s in southern Europe and which by 1800 was generally considered outdated. New ideas began to emerge toward the end of the 1700s but it took time before the old, proven methods began to be replaced. A bastion fortifi cation was based on the principle of depth of defence, that is, multiple layers of ditches and earthen ramparts. If the enemy should manage to capture the fi rst line, the defence could be continued from the second line, and so on. The ramparts were built in the form of arrowheads in order to reduce the risk of the defender coming under fl anking fi re, while also minimising the zone immediately under the walls where an attacker could take cover. The resulting geometrical forms were complicated and their architects often received the criticism that they knew little of the realities of warfare. 6 The fortifi cation that was never built. The red line represents the modern road. Revision: Graham Robins 7 The Second Plan As the use of explosive projectiles increased it became important to provide shelter for a fortress’s defenders. The French fortifi cations engineer, Le Marquis René de Montalembert, viewed a siege as a duel with cannon. The side with the most cannon and the best position would win. He therefore, toward the end of the 1700s, drew fortresses where all of the cannon and crews were placed in bomb-safe rooms built of brick. Prior to this cannon had often been mounted on top of the ramparts. Cannon were also mounted in buildings consisting of several storeys so that the number of cannon along a given front of fortifi cation could be doubled or even tripled. Montalembert’s system required enormous installations with hundreds of cannon, which in turn demanded a garrison of many thousands. The cost of building these impressive works was high. When the new drawings for Bomarsund’s fortifi cation were drawn up toward the end of the 1820s they followed Montalembert’s defensive principles. The fortress of Bomarsund needed to be able to resist attacks from both the sea and the land. This required two different defensive strategies. Against ships it was best to employ many cannon in a number of separate batteries. This meant that the ships could never attack all of the defensive works at once. Cannon fi red from a land battery had an advantage over ships’ cannon because the gun platform was more stable and red-hot shot could be used. It was almost impossible to successfully attack a well-built land battery with a ship. Against an army the defender needed to deal with the attacker’s batteries and hinder the advance of foot soldiers. This demanded a defensive wall with a glacis, a slope that protected the wall from direct cannon fi re. Once again the principle was that the greater the number of defensive works the better the area in front of the defences could be covered, while minimising the risk that the attack could be focused on any one point. 8