Beer The Ultimate World Tour 001-011_41072.indd 1 5/2/14 7:32:59 PM 001-011_41072.indd 1 5/2/14 8:03:19 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::11 This book is addressed to the beer traveler who may be on the ground in a local neighborhood or a foreign land, or in an armchair, relaxing with a selection of beers imported from around the globe, beers which bring to mind fond memories or dreams of future travels. This book is dedicated to the beer travelers with whom I have traveled, whether it has been to ancient taverns in Bohemia, strange bars in Manila, celebrated pubs in London, trap-line bars in Montana, tiny bars in Tokyo, unexpected gems in New England, wonderful pubs in Ireland, sublime bars in Belgium, or any of the those bars along the West Coast where the tap handle count defies comprehension. This book is dedicated to those friends with whom I’ve traveled, to friends I have yet to meet, and to all the wonderful beers which have yet to be brewed, but which we hope to enjoy. A division of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 276 Fifth Avenue, Suite 206 New York, NY 10001 RACE POINT PUBLISHING and the distinctive Race Point Publishing logo are trademarks of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. © 2014 by Bill Yenne All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior written permission from the publisher. This 2014 edition published by Race Point Publishing by arrangement with AGS BookWorks (AGSBookWorks.com), a division of American Graphic Systems, Inc. Edited by Scott Pearson. Designed by Bill Yenne Endpaper photo by Pawel Gaul/Getty Images ISBN-13: 978-1-9379-9441-9 Digital edition: 978-1-62788-247-7 Softcover edition: 978-1-93799-441-9 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available Photography credits can be found with individual images with details on page four. Printed in China 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 001-011_41072.indd 2 5/2/14 7:32:59 PM 001-011_41072.indd 2 5/20/14 11:07:30 AM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) 0 5 - C 7 0 8 5 2 ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::22 Beer The Ultimate World Tour Bill Yenne With a Preface by Fergal Murray Master Brewer, Guinness, Dublin 001-011_41072.indd 3 5/2/14 7:32:59 PM 001-011_41072.indd 3 5/2/14 8:03:20 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::33 4 Acknowledgements and Sources Natasha Holgate; Jennings Brewery courtesy of Karen Varty; Karl Strauss Brewing Company courtesy of Melody The photos in the book were mostly supplied through the Daversa and Chase Kauf; Kauai Island Brewing cour- media galleries of the breweries as credited on the pages tesy of Bret Larson; Kiuchi Brewery courtesy of Harina herein. Additional technical information, including ABV, sty- Katsuyama; Kompania Piwowarska courtesy of Pavel listic data, etc. was acquired through the substantial database Kwiatkowski; Koningshoeven via Lanny Hoff at Artisanal provided online by Beer Advocate. Imports; Krombacher courtesy of Julia Messerschmidt; In addition, the author would like to thank the Kunstmann courtesy of Paula Benitez; Lagunitas Brewing following specific breweries and people for supplying photo- Company courtesy of Ryan Tamborski and Jeremy Marshall; graphs and research information: Aass Bryggeri, through the Les Brasseurs du Nord/Bière Boréale courtesy of Isabelle courtesy of Synnøve Wisløff Samuelsen; Alaskan Brewing Charest; Lone Tree courtesy of David Shire; Mad River courtesy of Luke Bauer; Alchemist Brewery courtesy of Jess Brewing courtesy of Tera Spohr; Marston’s courtesy of Graham; Allagash Brewing Company courtesy of Mathew Alice Holden-Brown; Meantime courtesy of Lanny Hoff Trogner and Rob Tod; Asahi courtesy of Aiko Shima; at Artisanal Imports; Merchant du Vin courtesy of Charles August Schell Brewery courtesy of Kyle Marti; Baladin Finkel and Craig Hartinger; Mikkeller courtesy of Robert courtesy of Fabio “Moz” Mozzone; Bavaria (Netherlands) Ureke; Moosehead courtesy of Elizabeth Harroun; Mythos courtesy of Inge van der Heijden; Bear Republic courtesy Brewery courtesy of Eleni Dessipri; Nelson Brewing cour- of Kate Gratto-Bachman and Richard Norgrove; Big Sky tesy of Chad Hansen; New Belgium Brewing courtesy of Brewing photos by Loren Moulton; Birra Menabrea cour- Bryan Simpson; Nils Oscar courtesy of Karin Wikström at tesy of Marco Grandi; Blue Mountain courtesy of Jessica TNF Inexa AB; Nøgne Ø courtesy of Tor Jessen; Nørrebro Bullard; Boston Beer Company courtesy of Suzanne Pace; Bryghus courtesy of Tine Pedersen; Odell Brewing Brasserie Lefèbvre courtesy of Cécile Fontaine; Brasserie Company courtesy of Amanda Johnson-King; Oettinger Thiriez courtesy of Daniel Thiriez; Bräuerei Aying Franz Bräuerei courtesy of Jana Gebicke; Ottakringer Bräuerei Inselkammer KG courtesy of Julia Jacob; Bräuerei C&A courtesy of Gabriele Grossberger; Paderborner Bräuerei Veltins courtesy of Julia Buchheister; Bräuunion courtesy courtesy of Peter Böhling; Pike Brewery courtesy of Charles of Carina Maurer; Bryggeriet Djaevlebryg courtesy of Finkel; Ringwood courtesy of Rachel Barnett; Rock Art Per Olaf Huusfeldt; Captain Lawrence Brewing courtesy Brewery courtesy of Renée Nadeau; Royal Unibrew cour- of Aaron Pozit; Castlemaine Perkins courtesy of Karen tesy of Louise Kapel; Russian River Brewing courtesy of McKeering; Central City courtesy of Tim Barnes; Cheval Natalie Cilurzo and Vinnie Cilurzo; SABMiller courtesy of Blanc courtesy of Luc Senécal; Chimay courtesy of Monica Ramirez and Rebecca Spargo; SABMiller Africa Manneken-Brussel Imports; Cigar City courtesy of Justin courtesy of Julie Honiball; SABMiller Poland courtesy of Clark and Geiger Powell; Deschutes Brewery courtesy of Pavel Kwiatkowski; Sharp’s courtesy of Daniel Baird; Sierra Marie Melsheimer; Diageo courtesy of Hazel Chu, Killian Nevada courtesy of Ryan Arnold; Sinebrychoff courtesy Keys and Rhonda Evans; Diamond Knot Craft Brewing of Timo Mikkola; Spoetzl courtesy of Eric Webber at courtesy of Sherry Jennings; Dinkelacker-Schwabenbräu McGarrah Jessee; Steam Whistle courtesy of Sybil Taylor; courtesy of Sebastian Gerlach; Dock Street Brewery cour- Stevens Point Brewery courtesy of Julie Birrenkott; St.. tesy of Marilyn Candeloro; Dogfish Head courtesy of Feuillien courtesy of Sabine Friart; Stone Brewing photos by Tim Parrott; Feldschlösschen Getränke courtesy of Sabine Studio Schulz; Summit Brewing courtesy of Chip Walton; Strehle; Firestone Walker courtesy of Erica Nolan; Florida Svijany courtesy of Petra Winklerova; Tennent’s courtesy of Ice and Farm courtesy of Alejandra Zuniga; Flying Dog Vicki Byers; Tröegs Brewery courtesy of Jeff Herb; Trumer Brewery courtesy of Erin Weston; Fullers courtesy of Zoe Bräuerei courtesy of Lars Larson and Mark Mattson; Tun Barb; Georgetown Brewing courtesy of Ingrid Bartels; Tavern courtesy of Diane Tharp; U Fleku courtesy of Gritty McDuff’s courtesy of Thomas Wilson; Heineken F. Jordak; US Beverage courtesy of Georgia Homsany Hungária courtesy of Zita Szederkényi; Heineken Italia and Justin Fisch; Wellington Brewery courtesy of Brad courtesy of Giorgia Bazurli; Hill Farmstead Brewery, Bob McInerney; West Brewery courtesy of Ruth Oliver; and M. Montgomery Images; Holgate Brewhouse courtesy of finally, the Wye Valley Brewery courtesy of Lizzie Davidson. 001-011_41072.indd 4 5/2/14 7:32:59 PM 001-011_41072.indd 4 5/2/14 8:03:20 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::44 5 Contents Preface 6 Luxembourg 142 Introduction 8 France 144 What Is Beer? 10 Southern Europe 150 Ireland 12 The Middle East The United Kingdom 18 and North Africa 160 Scandinavia 36 Africa 166 The Baltic 48 Asia 178 Russia 54 Japan 188 Poland 60 Australia and New Zealand 194 Eastern Europe 66 Latin America The Czech Republic 74 and the Caribbean 204 Germany 82 Canada 218 Austria 102 The United States 230 Switzerland 108 An Overview of Beer Styles 274 The Netherlands 112 An Overview of Beer Glassware 280 Belgium 118 Index 286 001-011_41072.indd 5 5/2/14 7:32:59 PM 001-011_41072.indd 5 5/2/14 8:03:20 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::55 6 Beer: The Ultimate World Tour Preface by Fergal Murray Master Brewer, Guinness, Dublin Ih ave worked in the world of precise process, practices a recipe, people, and all of God’s creations beer for nearly 30 years. I was and continues to practice the same merge, and chaos prevails. (When taught by the masters of their recipe to be consistent and to this happens, you do not try to craft in a brewery where knowl- maintain and improve the quality. think how to solve the problem—it edge and skill were handed down As I often say, watch your hygiene, can’t be done.) This night, two col- through more than two centuries, mind your yeast, and cherish the leagues and I, with our drivers, had but more than anything, I gained goodness that comes from the gotten out the brewery gate and from them a sense of passion for malt base. As an old brewer once had entered the fray. I remember what it takes to be a brewer. told me, “get it right in the brew that when we realized we had not During my career, I have house, and with good yeast, every- moved, and the air conditioning in brewed beer on two continents, thing else is just time.” the cars was beginning to falter, we and I have traveled to over 50 dif- However, for a brewer to got out of our cars to survey the ferent nations on every continent. become a master brewer is to scene. My colleagues and I, sea- I would guess that I have had at exude a passion for our craft, and soned in Africa, realized that our least one beer in each of these to put heart and soul into our beer. situation was hopeless. countries. I suppose I’ve probably I’ve have had some extraor- At that moment, we saw a been in more bars across more dinary beer experiences, made table beneath a canvas-roofed nations than most of my fellow remarkable by great locations, great establishment marked with a poster beer lovers. I’ve been in brew- breweries, and unique events and of a bottle of beer. Most impor- houses and bottling halls all over situations to celebrate. I’ve savored tant, we saw that they had stock the world and I’ve witnessed a lot my beer in exclusive high-end bars, in a cold bucket. We entered to of passion and dedication to the in street corner pubs, in beach tav- the surprise of the young woman, brewing of great beer. erns, and in jungle shacks. who up until then had probably For all brewers, the four basic I fondly remember one atro- never experienced three expats ingredients—water, malt, hops, ciously hot sweltering night in attempting to sit on her makeshift and yeast—are fundamentally the Lagos many years ago, just after bench beside the street, and asking only way to make great beer. As another military coup. We got into for a beer. From that moment on, I have learned, and as I advise one of those traffic jams you can one of the great beer experiences everyone who brews, a good only get into in Africa, where cars, of my life unfolded. We were an brewer starts with a clear and buses, trucks, cows, goats, sheep, attraction. Soon the corner bar was 001-011_41072.indd 6 5/2/14 7:32:59 PM 001-011_41072.indd 6 5/2/14 8:03:20 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::66 Preface 7 overwhelmed with onlookers. It turned into one of those occasions when the one common desire for cold beer transcended all thoughts and concerns. The stories, the fun, the camaraderie were all amazing. Eventually the traffic subsided, and everyone went on his way, but after that, on our way home, we regu- larly went back to that same table and that cold bucket of beer. Did you know that next to water and tea, beer is the bever- age most consumed by human beings across the globe? More that 200 billion liters are con- sity, and so many amazing fantastic Above: Fergal Murray holds a pint sumed each year. tastes, the world of beer has never poured at the tap in the St. James’s Gate kegging facility in Dublin. This Never has beer, and the enjoy- been more exciting. is as close to the source as it gets. ment of beer, been more diverse, As an adorer of great beers, (Bill Yenne photo) ____________________________ more active than it is today. Even I have found that experiencing as traditional beer markets are great beers is more than just the and serve a beer so that looks declining, new, emerging markets beer itself. We must have a great absolutely gorgeous in every are growing, along with innovative bar, a place where it just feels way—because it is with our eyes brands and fabulous craft brewers right. Whether it may be a street that first savor our beer. developing everywhere. bar, a high-end, five-star, state- Only then do we take pleasure I read a document recently of-art bar, or an iconic, history- in our reward, when all the won- from one of the brewers’ associa- laden pub, it just has to have derful flavors and textures awaken tions, which classified over 140 dif- something magic about it. Then our senses and bring to life the ferent styles of beer. I know this is we need a great bartender, a bar- beer, a refreshing experience that growing, and with so much diver- tender who knows how to craft enhances life’s journey. 001-011_41072.indd 7 5/2/14 7:33:07 PM 001-011_41072.indd 7 5/2/14 8:03:20 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::77 8 Beer: The Ultimate World Tour Introduction by Bill Yenne T his book is both a global often in ancient Egyptian litera- survey and a global celebra- ture. As H.F. Lutz points out tion of beer. In this book, in Viticulture and Brewing in the we speak of an archetypical beer Ancient Orient, Middle Kingdom traveler, who may be on the texts from Beni Hasan “enu- ground in a local or foreign land, merate quite a number of dif- or in an armchair with a selection ferent beers.” Among these of beers imported from around were a “garnished beer” and a the globe. Our book is organized “dark beer.” In the Newsletter regionally, because regions have of the American Society of Brewing their own characteristic brew- Chemists, David Ryder notes that ing culture and heritage of beer Egyptian beer “was also used styles. It is designed for people as a medicine, a tonic for build- Above: The author enjoying a pint at who enjoy beer as well as the cul- ing strength . . . a universal cure a favorite pub. (Paul Waters photo) tural nuances of brewing history. ____________________________ for coughs and colds, shortness Our beer traveler’s journey of breath, problems of the circumnavigates the globe, begin- across the United States. The beer stomach and lungs, and a guard ning in Ireland, then moves east- traveler’s last stop is the western- against indigestion!” ward across northern Europe to most brewery in the world. It has been suggested that Russia. From here, we turn south Beer is an ancient beverage, the brewing of beer is at least as and travel westward into the heart brewed by the Sumerians, enjoyed old as the baking of bread, and of Europe. Next, we turn south by the pharaohs, and produced in certainly both have been prac- through southern Europe into the countless civilizations from the ticed since the dawn of recorded Middle East and Africa, before arctic to the equator and beyond history. Indeed, the art and sci- traveling eastward to Asia. Then, since before there was a known ence of the brewer and those we move south into Australia and written record of human progress. of the baker are quite similar, New Zealand before crossing the Professor Solomon Katz at both involving grain, water and South Pacific to Latin America. the University of Pennsylvania yeast. In fact, the Sumerians Traveling to North America, we found Sumerian recipes for baked barley loaves called bappir visit Canada, then wind up our beer that date back four mil- that could be stored in the dry journey by moving westward lennia, and beer is mentioned climate and either eaten as bread 001-011_41072.indd 8 5/2/14 7:33:09 PM 001-011_41072.indd 8 5/2/14 8:03:20 PM ((FFooggrraa 3399))JJoobb::0044--4411007722 TTiittllee::RRaacceeppooiinntt--BBeeeerr UUllttiimmaattee WWoorrlldd TToouurr (Text) ##117755 DDttpp::222255 PPaaggee::88