46060_COVER 13/5/04 3:38 pm Page 1 k 4 0 u 0 5 o. 0 2. mc.c mer 2 UK £ b m e h u t S w. w w BBeeaarr AAttttaacckkss EEsssseennttiiaall AAllppss LLiigghhttwweeiigghhtt GGeeaarr MMoovviinngg OOuuttssiiddee AAccrroossss NNeeppaall EExxppeeddiittiioonnss contents CONTENTS features 14: Bear Essentials Gary Rolfe gives the low down on bears. How to survive attacks from grizzly, and even polar bears. 20: Light as Air Paul Deegan sorts through the essentials and strips his gear down to a minimum to see just 14 how much weight you can save. 26: Alpine Power Heading to the Alps? Rich Cross has some 14 alpine tips to make your life easier. 30: Warp Speed Andy Kirkpatrick's at it again. This time experiencing life in the fast lane. 32: Pilgrims Tale Braving Maoist guerrillas to cross Nepal on foot. 38: Collie's Canada Ian Mitchell retraces the footsteps of a pioneer. 40: The Basics 20 38 Learning to climb part 2: Heading outside. 44: Slippery Slope Jon Morgan suffers for Britain. 46: One Winter A tale of two Nicks in the dark, cold Peak. 48: Expeditions 2004 A roundup of this year's expeditions. 54: Silent Voices Are women marginalised in climbing literature? 46 regulars 3: The Issue 6: News 10: Access News 52: Events 53: Accident & Emergency 62: Last Thoughts special offers 12: Stuff It's your lucky day - we've got four more tasty competitions for you to enter. 34 3 34 foreword WELCOME TO ISSUE 34 Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to: Negotiate access improvements and pro- mote cliff and mountain conservation. Promote and advise on good practice, facilities, training and equipment. Support events and specialist programmes A High Church including youth and excellence. Provide services and information for W members. elcome to the summer edition of Summit. The cold days of winter seem to be behind us, and I’m sure you’re looking forward to some great BMC days out. The hot weather seemed to affect the Annual Gathering weekend too. 177 - 179 Burton Road, Gone were the frosty debates, to be replaced with a surprisingly uncontrover- Manchester, M20 2BB sial AGM. Tel: 0870 010 4878 But there are still some clouds on the horizon, and these were highlighted in Fax: 0161 445 4500 [email protected] a Management Committee meeting prior to the AGM. The Future Policy Steering www.thebmc.co.uk Group has been busy identifying problem areas and suggesting possible changes over the winter, but the interim report presented to ManCom seemed to ignite President: Mark Vallance controversy rather than agreement. Chief Executive:Dave Turnbull Past policy making committees, made up of the “great and the good”, have Summit Editor: Alex Messenger carried out their work behind closed doors, but in this new century the process has been dragged out of the smoky rooms and onto these pages, the web, and EDITORIAL open meetings, allowing many “ordinary” members to air their views. Which Contributions for Summit should be sent creates a problem. to the Editor Alex Messenger at the above address or [email protected]. Every It’s a simple fact that you just can’t please everyone all of the time. The care is taken of materials sent for publi- traditional games of rock climbing, hill walking and mountaineering now jostle cation, however these are submitted at for position with bouldering, indoor climbing and competitions, to give a very the sender's risk. The views expressed broad church. Satisfying the needs of such a diverse membership will always be within are of the contributors, and not a balancing act. necessarily the BMC. And one of the key problems still to be faced is the relationship between Individual and Club Members. There seems to be general agreement that the PUBLISHING Gill Wootton membership structure and management structure of the BMC need to be adjusted Display Advertising to accommodate the expansion in Individual membership, but the mechanism Jane Harris still remains to be decided. This particular cloud needs to be tackled, otherwise Classified the next AGM might not be so sunny. Paula Taylor Individual members contribute an ever-increasing proportion of BMC funds. Tel: 01536 382500 They want, and are willing to pay for, the various services that have been introduced Fax: 01536 382501 such as Summit and liability insurance, but they feel disenfranchised and resent club members getting a cheap deal. PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY Greenshires Publishing The requirements of Club affiliated members - huts, meets, dinners and lectures, Telford Way, Kettering are met to a large extent by their clubs. They rely much less on the BMC for Northants, NN16 8UN services and activities though, ironically, they provide the BMC with most of it’s Tel: 01536 382500 volunteers and elected officials. Why should they pay more for bells and whistles they don’t want? Neither the BMC nor Greenshires Publish- There is a way to square this circle. Individual members should get access to ing accept responsibility for information a full range of services, evolving to suit their needs as climbing develops, while supplied in adverts. Readers are advised the Club affiliated members should only get, and pay for those core services that to take reasonable care when respond- ing to adverts. they founded the BMC to provide. If they want the bells and whistles they can pay for upgrading to full membership. RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Well I’m off to the Dolomites this summer, followed by a week in Cornwall. but Readers of Summit are reminded that I’d like to get feedback, on a postcard. So whether you’re heading to the Alps, climbing, hill walking and mountain- learning to lead, or on an overseas trek, enjoy your summer’! eering are activities with a danger of per- sonal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Mark Vallance BMC President (((((TTTTTOOOOOPPPPP)))))::::: Mark Vallance lays down the facts at the BMC AGM. OOOOONNNNN TTTTTHHHHHEEEEE CCCCCOOOOOVVVVVEEEEERRRRR::::: Jon Cooke enjoying summer on the Left Unconquerable, E1 5b, Stanage..... CCCCCrrrrreeeeedddddiiiiittttt::::: Alex Messenger the issue Plastic Power BMC support of competition climbing has always been controversial to some. But years of effort have paid off and the British team is now looking stronger then ever. With increasing numbers competing, is it time to leave any prejudices behind? The recent Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show also getting his best ever World Cup result AGM, but is at the BRYCS (British Regional was the biggest yet, filling five halls at with a 15th on the same weekend. Youth Climbing Series) final, when hundreds the NEC in Birmingham. Over 48,000 visi- But it’s the Bouldering team that’s mak- of parents and competitors converge to cheer tors piled in over the three days to sample ing everyone sit up and take notice. on the climbers. But ironically this increase the various exhibitions; Canoe ’04, Adven- Malcolm Smith got our first top podium spot in grassroots support comes at a time when ture Travel ’04, and of course Climb ’04, with back in 2002 and finished second overall, UKSport have cut the BMC competitions it’s centrepiece being the North Face UIAA- but others in the team are now starting to grant - who knows what could be achieved ICC Bouldering World Cup. perform. Various final placings last year with more funding? Nationally and internationally the com- (Mark Croxall 6th in France, Andy Earl 10th in Of course, there will always be those un- petition scene is now vibrant. The Sprayway the World Championships in Chamonix) cul- sure what to make of competitions, often BICC (British Indoor Climbing Champion- minated with four finalists at Ratho in De- claiming that competitors are just “plastic ships) and A5 BBC (British Bouldering Cham- cember. pullers”, but the names speak for themselves; pionships) are going from strength to In the NEC they took the place by storm Lucy Creamer, Malcolm Smith, Steve McClure, strength, and the international calendar now in front of an enthusiastic home crowd, and Andy Earl, Gareth Parry. These aren’t a sepa- has 20 World Cups. Climbing is in the World the result was the best overall set of results rate breed, but some of the best climbers we Games and World Student Games in 2005, for the British team ever. A podium place for have - indoors or out. Even Leo Houlding, and even the World Firefighter Games this Gareth Parry, 4th for Mark Croxall and 6th for posterboy for adventure climbing gained September (incidentaly any climbing fire- Andy Earl. No momentum was lost when they prominence from competing. It would seem fighters do get in touch!) headed on to Erlangen in Germany either, that competition climbing is now very much The British Team are going particularly just two weeks later Andy Earl had bagged a part of the fabric of our sport. well too, achieving their most consistent 4th place and Mark Croxall a 9th. results ever. After a number of third places Part of the reason for this upturn is the NNNNNEEEEEXXXXXTTTTT YYYYYEEEEEAAAAARRRRR over the last few years in the European Youth improvements in team structure and re- The OS Outdoors Show is on the 18-20th Cups, we’ve had our first ever victory from sources, and now volunteers across the coun- March next year and it’ll be even better, fea- Tom Bolger in Switzerland. Tom went on to try are helping out on a regular basis. This turing overnight camping, bands and finish 2nd overall, with teammate Jamie has led to some interesting quirks for a start. barbeques for a full weekend festival expe- Cassidy finishing 4th. Then there was Lucy 30% of BMC affiliated clubs (including stu- rience. Creamer reaching her first ever Difficulty fi- dent clubs) now have some kind of involve- TTTTTOOOOOPPPPP))))) Killian Fischhuber (Austria) gets in a nal at Ratho in November, up against some ment with competitions, and the biggest tangle at Climb '04, before finishing 2nd. pretty fierce opposition, with Steve McClure gathering of BMC members is no longer the Credit: Alex Messenger. 34 5 latest news Student Stand at AGM Bristol student James Jackson tackles BMC and wins subscription freeze at the coolest AGM for many years. This years AGM and annual gathering came racy in action, and everyone was so pleased and went in Bristol in April in a flurry of by the result that the AGM even finished meetings, alcohol, and sunshine. Accord- half an hour early. ing to some observers it was the least con- Later in the evening Sir Chris Bonington tentious and friendliest event for years. The did the business as guest speaker at the highpoint was when the floor agreed to an dinner with some tales about his early Ched- amendment proposed by James Jackson dar exploration days including the first as- from Bristol University, that student mem- cent of Coronation Street. The weekend was bership fee increases be freezed for a year. rounded off by up to a hundred climbers Standing up to the old guard, and tack- descending on Cheddar Gorge, although an ling BMC Treasurer Gordon Adshead by the attempt to get the elite team of Bonington horns, Jackson presented a compelling case and Derek Walker back on Coronation Street for his side. He argued that the problem was foiled due to in-situ parties. The Gorge was not so much a case of “poor students”, had been opened for climbing for the day but more pressure from the Student Un- thanks to the efforts of Martin Crocker and a ions. In many cases club affiliation fees are keen band of Bristol climbers. Cheddar Summer? handled directly by the Union, and if a It was a sunny week- Work continues on the Cheddar Gorge Representative Body’s fees are thought to end in more ways Climbing Project, and while the new be too expensive, they will simply drop out. than one, and with access situation is not yet finalised, a With Universities increasingly discriminat- such good vibes, superb taster on the Sunday of the BMC ing against adventurous sports clubs, it could it be that the AGM weekend proved very appetising. would be a bad day for student climbing BMC is finally back on Martin Crocker had negotiated access clubs if this happened, possibly leaving track after a turbu- with Cheddar Caves and Gorge to some them high and dry without liability insur- lent few years? of the proposed cliffs, including Horse- ance, and entangled in a red tape night- shoe Bend Buttress and High Rock. Lots mare of safety regulations. of climbers made full use of the glori- Facing initial resistance, Jackson pressed ous sunshine and continental atmos- on, and soon had most of the floor remi- phere to climb the prepared sports niscing about their days at University, and routes, and it was good to see Sir Chris stating that the BMC needed to send out a Jackson mak- Bonington in action again on High firm message of support. This was democ- ing his stand. Rock. The day proved what a great sum- mertime venue Cheddar could be. Latest ACTs But Remember... The BMC South West Area Committee would like to remind climbers that the Recent Access and Conservation Trust (ACT) news. recent re-gearing work in the Cheddar Gorge (required due to prevailing con- ditions) does not set a precedent for In Summit 33 we reported on the work pro- ACT has also partnered the Peak District change in the Avon Gorge fixed gear moting rural development. These projects National Park in restoring a car parking area policy, or in the BMC fixed equipment are now at the end of their implementation below Stanage Edge. This has been finished policy. The Avon Gorge policy remains stages and already climbers and hillwalkers already, and the parking at Cabin track as decided in an open meeting in 2002: are benefiting from the improved relation- should blend in sensitively to the landscape For belays reliant on fixed protection, ships between visitors and local residents. and be a real boon to visitors. A number of it is acceptable to replace current gear The CHIPs (Climbing Huts Information other projects have been completed already with bolts if the fixed protection is rot- Project) folders are now in club huts in this season, including the work needed to ten. Snowdonia, at Plas y Brenin, Pete’s Eats, fix Rivelin after tree damage (see Access For fixed gear runner placements with National Trust offices and bunkhouses and News). no natural protection available, it is in some privately run accommodation. To Future likely projects include resin repair acceptable to replace the fixed gear on see the kind of information on offer see work on Southern Sandstone, path work in a like-for-like basis only. www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/chips/ the Lakes, updating ‘Heading for the Scot- index.html. The Lake District Visitor Pay- tish Hills’, and a BUFT project to review path CRoW Act Latest back Initiative is also complete and info work funded in previous years. This is only The new statutory access rights under folders are in club huts in Langdale. The possible due to the support of individual the CRoW Act will be implemented in local children have enjoyed lots of out- donors and some very major supporters. In England in a rolling programme, start- door activities, and interest is high for more 2004 we've secured support from the Cas- ing with the south east and lower north projects to happen. tle Climbing Centre, the Climbers’ Club, west in September. Implementation in The success of the projects is being moni- Mountain Leader Training England and the Wales follows and by the end of 2005 tored, but the initial signs are very good. A Yorkshire Mountaineering Club, and Climb this process should be complete. The key success has been how a relatively small Rochdale. Other key supporters include BMC next issue of Summit will have a feature amount of funding from ACT has pulled in Guidebooks, RockFax, Association of Brit- on what this will mean to you as a much more from sources such as the Na- ish Climbing Walls, Lowe Alpine and Cleve- climber, hillwalker or mountaineer and tional Trust, Lake District National Park, land Mountaineering Club. As ever a big what changes you can expect to see in Adfywio, Cumbria County Council and Cum- thank to you to you all, and do please keep the countryside. bria Youth Alliance. supporting our efforts. 66 34 Black Nick Nabbed The BMC is pleased to announce the appointment of Nick Colton as Deputy CEO. "Black" Nick is most famous for his ascent of the Colton/MacIntyre route on the Grandes Jorasses, still regarded as one of the hardest ice routes in the Alps. In recent years Nick has focused on rock climbing and can be found crimping down at Broughton Wall most evenings. He joins the BMC from teach- ing and will take a lead on youth ac- tivities within the BMC. Sprayway BICC The Sprayway BICC (British Indoor Climbing Championships) went well again this season, with a great depth of younger talent. This can only bode well for international success in the future, so look out for great things to come. 2004 SERIES CHAMPIONS: Senior Male: Steve McClure Senior Female: Rosie Shaw Lucky Horseshoe Junior Male: Tom Bolger Junior Female: Katie Hill The BMC finally goes ahead with the acquisition of Horseshoe Quarry Thanks to the venues and all who made from its current owners, Tarmac. the events possible by belaying, judg- This decision follows nearly seven years of From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill is aimed at ing, and marshalling. Thanks also to discussions between the BMC and the quar- the growing numbers of sports climbers who Sprayway, Entre-Prises, OTE, High, Awe- rying company over access, liability and operate in the mid grades i.e. F5 to F7s, some Walls, Edelweiss, Red Chilli, and ownership, and is a significant step forward. and seeks to show the wealth of routes in Bentleys Accountants for support. The BMC owns several other sites for climb- this range in the area. Most of the crags ers; Stone Farm Rocks, Aldery Cliff ( Earl covered are ones that have been developed FUNdamentals Sterndale) a small limestone crag near in the last few years, mainly in abandoned The BMC HPSG (High Performance Steer- Buxton, and Craig Bwlch y Moch at Tremadog. quarries in the region. ing Group) will be organising a number We are also involved with the management Crags covered are Horseshoe Quarry, Hall of these workshops again this year. of many others such as Harrisons Rocks, Dale Quarry, Cawdor Quarry, Slaley Brook, Aimed at those who teach climbing, Wintours Leap, Cheddar Gorge, and Upper Lorry Park Quarry, Intake Quarry, Deepdale, the workshops proved very successful Pen Trwyn to name but some. Cowdale, Blackwell Holt, Blatant Buttress in 2003. Email [email protected] Assuming the purchase of Horseshoe and Smalldale. It contains almost 600 for details. Also many thanks to those Quarry goes through, the BMC Peak area will routes, mainly in the F6 range. that took part in the HPSG Adolescent be establishing a sub-committee to man- It is richly illustrated by colour crag pho- Injury Survey. The winners of the prize age the crag. Ownership by the BMC should tographs many fine action pictures, and draw were Ryan Frost, Ewan Russell, ensure access for climbers to this ever popu- detailed maps, and based on the same for- Eleanor Kitchen, Michael Clayton, Lianne lar Peak District sports climbing venue. mat as the recent BMC Staffordshire guide- Smith, and Deb Banerji. The timing couldn’t be better either, since book. It is hoped that this guide will ap- fresh from the Staffordshire Grit triumph, pear on the shelves sometime in July or Lakes Access Meet the team are hard at work on a new master- August, and will fill a much needed niche There was a productive day at the Old piece. This summer will see the release of a in the coverage of Peak District climbing. Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in late March, new guidebook covering mid-range sports climbs in the Peak District. (((((TTTTTOOOOOPPPPP))))) Horseshoe Quarry. venue for a day of access and conserva- tion related discussion. The morning Credit: Niall Grimes session introduced access reps to their new information pack, followed by a Welsh Adventure worth £140 million workshop on the CRoW Act. Then it was on to the Lakes Area Meeting, looking A new piece of research into the impor- The industry creates (directly and indirectly) at how climbing and new routeing can tance of the outdoor adventure industry in over 8,400 jobs across the area, almost 5,500 co-exist with conservation interests, North West Wales, has just been launched. of which are created within the Snowdonia especially in the light of new wildlife “The Active Economy” was commissioned National Park. This equates to almost 6% of protection law. Various speakers gave by Snowdonia-Active, the outdoor sector all employment across North West Wales. food for thought, and it highlighted support organisation for the Gwynedd, An- The work was supported by the Welsh De- the great success of the BMC voluntary glesey and Conwy areas. The study found velopment Agency, Gwynedd Council, Skills bird nesting restriction system, and sug- that the adventure tourism industry con- Active Wales and the Welsh Canoeing Asso- gested that more work needs to be done tributes over £140 million per annum to ciation and carried out by Cardiff based in the same vein to protect flora. Thanks the North West Wales economy, £60 million consultancy firm Newidiem. To view a copy to all who helped organise the day es- of which is contributed to the economy of the research, see www.snowdonia- pecially Dave Bishop, Bill Renshaw, Colin within the Snowdonia National Park area. active.com. Earnshaw, David Staton and Bunny McCullough. 34 77 news New Sponsor for BRYCS We’re pleased to announce that Perkins Slade have taken title sponsorship for the British Regional Youth Competition Series (BRYCS) for a one-year period. Perkins Slade are the brokers for the BMC’s Travel and Activity Insurance and also insure many climbing walls. The previ- ous sponsors urban Rock, had a change of ownership and were unable to com- mit to the continuation of the arrange- ments. The BMC would like to thank urban Rock for their support over the last few years, and Perkins Slade for step- ping in at the last minute. The Regional rounds start in early May, see BMC website for details and application forms. Return to Ben Nevis Richard Lamb aims to re-climb Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis on 11-13th June, to raise funds for the Limbless Association (LA) and English Federation for Disabil- Save an arm and a leg.. ity Sport (EFDS). In February 2001 he had to have his lower-right leg ampu- tated following an accident on the route, Dave Lucas (above) has just returned from in, Dave was pretty glad he had BMC Travel and also lost all the fingers and most of an exploratory rock trip to the Sinai, where and Activity Insurance. Within days he was thumb on his right hand, and half his a total of 35 new routes were put up on a in a UK hospital, and has now become a fingers on his left from frostbite. Hot Rock venture. The Hot Rock trips have great ambassador for the scheme saying, After discharge from hospital and sub- sprung out of the World Global Challenge “The BMC Insurance essentially saved my sequent recovery, he is now set to return trips, featuring a bundle of climbers in a leg”. Now fully healed and the Sinai trip to Ben Nevis, to complete Tower Ridge truck touring the world in search of new completed, the next Hot Rock venture is to and raise funds for charity. Lochaber rock. Dave’s part on the World Global Chal- South America this summer. See Mountain Rescue Team is supporting the lenge was cut drastically short after rock www.planetfear.com or email climb, and he’s supported with gear from fall in Guatemala on the cliff shown above. [email protected] for details. Cotswold Outdoor and OSC Ltd. If you’d The fall may have earnt him a recent spot And if you're heading off the beaten track, like to help support his challenge, find on the National Geographic channel, but it well come to us first, with our new range of out more at www.dickymintos.plus.com. nearly cost him his leg. With local emer- policies you could save in more ways than gency care lacking, and infection setting one. Shieldaig Rejected Scottish Government Ministers have re- jected a proposed hydroelectric scheme in the heart of the Torridon Mountains ManCom Summary within the Western Ross National Sce- The last BMC Management Commitee comed by ManCom. Potential access prob- nic Area. The Mountaineering Council (ManCom) Meeting was held on 23rd April. lems at Pant y Ifan, Tremadog were dis- of Scotland campaigned for eight years This shortened (two hour) meeting took cussed and it was reported that the Staf- to stop the scheme, and is grateful to place in Bristol as part of the BMC AGM week- fordshire Guidebook had been published. the BMC for support and also to the end, attended by 28 people. The main is- An interim report was received from FPR many individual mountaineers who sues of debate were Horseshoe Quarry and Steering Group Chair, Bob Moulton. It was wrote letters, spoke to politicians and the Interim Report from the Future Policy agreed that this would be discussed fur- encouraged their friends to do the same. Review (FPR) Steering Group. After lengthy ther at Area Meetings. With regard to youth Supporters of the proposed scheme tried discussion it was agreed that the BMC would activities, ManCom also endorsed a deci- to discredit the arguments, but the proceed with the acquisition of Horseshoe sion that, for the time being, BMC volun- voices of those who value the area were Quarry from the current owner, Tarmac. teers and staff cannot run outdoor youth heard and their passion made all the Elsewhere around the country the resur- activities and events under the name of the difference. gence of the SW Committee and work on BMC without authorisation from competent the Cheddar Gorge Access Project was wel- parties within the BMC. Competition Winners Well done to all the winners from issue 33, and thanks for entering. Paul Hornbrook and Claire Kestell will be smil- ing at their new Synchronic Sensor Mas- ters. The following will have a new DMM quickdraw; Iain Johnson, Lizzy Hawker, Jenny Measures, Andrew Lawfield, Ben Vickers, Helen Crisp, Lee Lewis, S. Hunter, Jane Kitching, and Alistair Robinson. And Glenn King, Moira Herring, John Brain, Iain Stackhouse, Gerald Moss, Alex Newman, S. Thirsk, A. Simpson, David Dornan, Kurt Diminieux are now proud owners of the Walkers Companion. 8 access news Rivelin Revolt Recent tree damage by climbers threatens access. In recent weeks, blatant damage to trees Access to the crag is via the footpath that near Rivelin edge and concern over erosion starts opposite the dam road and emerges to paths has led the landowner to protest left of the pinnacle. Do not wander through strongly to the BMC. The Peak access reps the woodlands below the crag. have done a huge amount of work to smooth things over with him, and it has This footpath will be sympathetically de- been agreed that: veloped to preserve surrounding woodlands and ensure that it is easily visible. Informal access to the crag for small par- ties can be maintained (NO groups). Climbers and boulderers must avoid the edge right of the Altar Crack area and re- ACT will meet the cost of making good the spect its integrity as a nature reserve. Fail- damage that has been done to trees. Lim- ure to do so will jeopardise all access to the ited clearance of additional trees, with the rest of the crag. exception of oaks, has also been agreed with the landowner where these shade the The landowner is a tree surgeon with a crag. strong vision of how this woodland should be managed, and any further damage to The work will be carried out by the owner the trees will result in the immediate loss and volunteer help will be sought to re- of all access for climbing. move and stack the felled wood. (((((LLLLLEEEEEFFFFFTTTTT))))) Thea Williams on White Out (E2 5c) in the summer heat of Rivelin. Credit: Nick Smith. cil, planners and architects, and an alter- LAKE DISTRICT SOUTH WEST native access route will be incorporated into the new site. There will be a temporary route Falcon Crag Goblin Combe during building which may be a little cir- The bird nesting restriction at Falcon Crag The ‘No Climbing’ sign as you approach the cuitous to ensure that no public members in Borrowdale has moved, as the bird has entrance to Goblin Combe continues to venture onto the site. Please respect this decided to nest on the lower crag. The re- cause confusion. North Somerset Council, route, and report any problems to the BMC. striction now covers the ascent/descent with BMC support, have acquired the Combe Not so positive on Pant Ifan where Coun- gully, and the route Spinup on Lower Fal- and are very positive on access. However, tryside Council for Wales (CCW) may be con Crag. Upper Falcon Crag is open, but the sign is not on their land and so it is not forced to enforce the long-term access ban please abseil off and avoid the gully. a simple matter of them removing it, and here following legal advice on safety mat- they are working on it. The BMC are working ters. The BMC has pointed out that climbers Humphrey Head with them on a climbing agreement, but in will always make their own assessments There is a peregrine nesting on Humphrey the meantime you are welcome, though where potential for rockfall exists and is Head, see the signs there for more details of groups are asked to contact the Environ- where the voluntary restriction lies. ment Centre (the old School - 01934 negotiating to prevent any further bar on SO access. 833723) to let them know you are visiting. Whelter Crag OTHER The female of the last pair of Golden Eagles WALES in England is presumed to have died, and the male is busy trying to attract a new Regional Access Database mate. The continued viability of the terri- Range West, Pembroke RAD remains a vital source of up to date tory is on a knife edge, and at the recent After much work and pressure over the years info on access to hundreds of crags in Eng- Mountain Liaison Group the BMC agreed to by BMC and climbers, this year will see site land and Wales. We quickly update any advise climbers not to climb on Whelter specific bird nesting restrictions on climb- changes we get to know about but for many Crag within the core territory due to the ing rather than the previous blanket ban sites the info has started to look a bit impact this may have on a potential new on access during the nesting months. As dated. To counter this the local access rep- mate. This will remain under regular review. usual you should attend a briefing for the resentatives are doing a superb job of up- year (though a briefed climber may take in dating their areas. In addition, the CRoW one unbriefed climber). Remaining brief- mapping process generated a host of new NORTH WEST ing dates for this year are 29th May (7pm, crag data in some regions. So in the near Castlemartin) and 31st July (Castlemartin, future you'll find that RAD has more up to Hoghton Quarry time tbc). A survey of where the birds are date, more extensive coverage. Any info you A similar agreement to last year has been nesting will be undertaken, and publicised send us helps keep it that way! on the BMC site in advance of the season signed with the de Hoghton estate. This opening on 29th May. gives access during 1-31st July, 8.30am and REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE 5.30pm, hopefully with one day a week Tremadog where climbing can extend to 9.00pm. For the latest access info on At Craig y Castell there were worries that the Climbers should be BMC members, and there more than 600 crags in construction of the new hospital below are other conditions which can be found Tremadog could prevent access to the crag. England and Wales, on on the news section of the BMC website. The BMC are in negotiation with the coun- www.thebmc.co.uk 10 34 stuff WIN THE COMPLETE POCKET MOUNTAINS STAFFORDSHIRE GRIT The Roaches Pocket Mountains WWWWWIIIIINNNNN TTTTTHHHHHEEEEE SSSSSEEEEETTTTT To win a complete £5.99 set of six pocket Pocket Mountains have been very busy, mountains books scurrying around north of the border, in an attractive and have now released three new titles wooden display to complete their Highlands and Is- stand, just answer lands series. Written and researched by the following ques- Nick Williams, the new titles - Central tion: Highlands, West Highlands and The Is- lands - follow on from the success of QQQQQ..... How many Paps are there on Jura? The Cairngorms, Southern Highlands and Northern Highlands. Each pocket- The definitive climbing guide sized book features 40 walks which cover Answers on a postcard to the BMC Of- to routes and bouldering all of the Munros in the region as well fice or email [email protected]. on Staffordshire grit as many other great hills. Available Winners will be published in Summit 35. from all good outdoors retailers. For Closing date is 01/08/04. Six runners more information check out up will receive the book of their choice www.pocketmountains.com. - please specify on your entry. Staffordshire Grit £17.50 The long awaited BMC Staffordshire Grit Owl & The Cragrat Sigg Boxes guide is now well and truly out. The team £5.95 From £15.95 have pulled out all the stops on this one to Inspired by a thread on Sigg is famous for make it one of the most impressive guides ukclimbing.com, this is a producing high for years. We would say that of course, but great little book featuring all quality, light- don't just take our word for it, check it out sorts of poems and songs weight aluminium in a climbing shop near you, phone the adapted for climbers. "If I drinks bottles, but BMC office, or see www.thebmc.co.uk to should die think only this of these Swiss perfectionists have turned their grab your copy today. me; that there is some corner attention to something different for 2004. of some...gritstone edge", you To cure the perenial problem of squashed BMC Insurance get the idea. Anyway, it works - very well. sarnies and crushed bananas, they've de- If you're heading off for the summer, don’t See www.stonegold.co.uk for more details. signed two new aluminium lunchboxes, forget to pack your BMC insurance. 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Closing date is 01/08/04. your flapjack, just answer the rather tricky question below: WIN A NEW RAB ALPINE JACKET QQQQQ..... In which country are Sigg products made? Rab Latok Alpine Jacket Answers on a postcard to the BMC Office or email [email protected]. Winners £160 will be published in Summit 35. Closing date If you're heading to the alps this summer, you is 01/08/04. could do worse than packing the new Latok Al- pine Jacket. Made from eVENT fabric, the Latok Expedition handbook Alpine is a stripped down, lightweight version of the established Latok jacket and offers great £19.99 levels of breathability and comfort in a fully wa- The Royal Geographical Society have fully terproof shell. With a total weight of just 440g revised and updated their Expedition Hand- Paul Deegan would no doubt approve (see page book, a tried and trusted companion for 20), and it's just the job for some speedy alpine many adventurers. Embarking upon scien- ascents. 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Closing date is 01/08/04. 12 34 46060_p14_17_BEARS 5/13/04 8:35 AM Page 14 SKILLS Bear How to handle yourself essentials in bear country by Gary Rolfe One of the first people to teach me In the early 1980’s the Canadian government hired him for his track- ing skills to help look into the disappearance of several hikers in his anything worth knowing about bears trapping area. He worked alone for weeks then hit the headlines when was Trapper Mack. We met in the he returned with human heads, hands and other body part remains from bear attacks. Yukon. Isolated, he’d been on his own a very, It’s tragic that every year ‘nuisance bears’ become a threat to very long time. I listened to him intently as humans and are destroyed. And whilst some situations can’t be avoid- ed most can. There are roughly 6,500 grizzlies (brown bears) ranging he stared at me. I didn’t want to upset this the Yukon to the Arctic coast. 10,000 black bears span the British man. His thick black hair was wild but I Columbia border to the same coast and 15,000 polar bears roam the Arctic Ocean within Canada. These polar bears constitute just over half sensed he wanted to tell me something of the world’s total population. To journey safely I’ve learnt to respect important. bear behaviour and their habitat. 34