In memory of our first editor, Ruth Cavin (1918–2011), who took a chance on us and our cookbook idea. Her love of good food inspires us still. To my mom, who always seemed to have fresh bread in our house. —JEFF To my dad, who taught me to live life with a sense of curiosity and adventure. —ZOË Table of Contents Title Page INTRODUCTION 1 - PIZZA AND FLATBREAD ARE THE FASTEST BREADS WE MAKE: STORING THE DOUGH MAKES THE DIFFERENCE 2 - INGREDIENTS Flours Toppings Cheeses Meat, Fish, Seafood, and Eggs Water Yeast: Adjust It to Your Taste Salt: Adjust It to Your Taste Oils and Solid Fats Sweeteners 3 - EQUIPMENT Equipment for Baking Pizzas and Flatbreads Other Equipment 4 - TIPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR PERFECT PIZZA AND FLATBREAD MADE WITH STORED DOUGH Measuring Ingredients by Weight Weighing Small-Quantity Ingredients Frequently Asked Questions from Readers 5 - THE MASTER RECIPE Classic Pizza Margherita Mixing and Storing the Dough On Pizza Day 6 - MORE DOUGHS AND GREAT SAVORY SAUCES Crisp-Yet-Tender Pizza Dough Even Closer to the Style of Naples Pizza Dough for Throwing American-Style Pizza Dough Semolina Dough 100% Whole Wheat Dough 100% Whole Grain Spelt Dough Cornmeal Olive Oil Dough Naan Dough 3 Corn Masa Dough Rustic and Hearty Rye Dough Gluten-Free Pizza and Flatbread Dough Chapati (Non-Yeasted Whole Wheat Dough) Roti or Flour Tortilla (Non-Yeasted Dough) Corn Tortilla (Non-Yeasted and Gluten-Free Corn Dough) Injera: Ethiopian Flatbread Savory Brioche Tomato Toppings Bolognese (Meat) Sauce Homemade Barbecue Sauce Pesto: Basil or Greens, from Farm to Table Béchamel: Sauce for “White” Pizzas Tomatillo Sauce 7 - THIN-CRUST PIZZAS AND FLATBREADS Fresh Cherry Tomato Pizza Barbecued Chicken Pizza Homemade Coleslaw Pizza with Soppressata and Piave (or Pepperoni and Mozzarella) Curried Sweet Potato, Lentil, and Arugula Pizza Brussels Sprouts, Smoked Pancetta, and Pecorino Pizza Thin-Crusted Zucchini Pie (Flowers Optional) Rainbow Beet Pizza Roasted Root Vegetable Pizza White Pizza with Spinach Joelein’s Winning Chicken Potpie Pizza White Clam Pizza Ancient Greco-Roman Pizza with Feta, Honey, and Sesame Seeds Sue’s Goat Cheese, Honey, Pumpkin Seed, and Fruit Appetizer Pear Gorgonzola Pizza with Candied Walnuts Hawaiian Pizza (Pineapple, Ham, and Macadamia Nuts) Apple, Ham, and Brie Tart Balthazar Goat Cheese and Onion Pizzette (Little Pizza-Tarts) Individual Breakfast Pizzas Bacon and Spinach Pizza Provençal Onion Tart with Cracked Egg and Anchovy Breakfast Pizza with Prosciutto, Cheese, and Egg Stovetop Pizza 8 - THICK-CRUST PIZZA, FOCACCIA, AND FLATBREADS Thick-Crusted Sicilian-Style Pizza with Onions (Sfinciuni) Thick-Crusted Roman Eggplant Pizza Coca (Catalan Flatbread) with Manchego, Leeks, Sardines, and Red Pepper Spanish Galician Potato Soup with Greens and Chorizo (Caldo Galego) Leek, Herbes de Provence, and Garlic Focaccia Moroccan Flatbread Spinach and Ricotta “Piz-zone” (Pizza + Calzone) Chicago-Style Deep-Dish Pizza Italian Torta Pizza Spirals on a Stick 9 - PITA AND DIPS, PLUS FLATBREADS AND SOUPS FROM AROUND THE WORLD Pita Turkish Pita (Pide) Hummus (Middle Eastern Chickpea Spread) with Lemon Zest Roasted Eggplant Dip (Baba Ghanoush) Roasted Red Pepper and Eggplant Dip (Ajvar) from Croatia Greek, Turkish, or Indian-Style Yogurt and Cucumber Dip (Tzatziki, Cacik, or Raita) Greek Garlic, Almond, and Potato Dip (Skordalia) Caponata (Sicilian Vegetable Side Dish) French Olive Spread (Tapenade) Crisp Pita Bread Bowl Turkish Spiced Lamb Flatbread (Lahmacun) Turkish Chicken-Stuffed Pita Boats Baked Naan Stuffed Naan Brenda Langton’s Curried Lentil Soup Mexican-Style Corn Flatbread with Tomatillo, Chiles, and Queso Campesino Cuban Black Bean Soup (and a Mexican Pinto Bean Variation) Scandinavian Rye Crisps (Knekkebrød), Lavash, and Other Crackers Scandinavian Smoked Salmon Flatbread with Capers and Dill Scandinavian Fish Soup with Dill, Snipped Chives, and Potato Gluten-Free Spicy Garlic Beef Pizza Spicy Garlic Beef Bing (Chinese Scallion Flatbread Done on the Stovetop) Sesame Spiral Flatbread Cheesy Bread Sticks 10 - DESSERT PIZZAS AND OTHER TREATS FROM ENRICHED DOUGH Challah Dough Sweet Brioche Dough Chocolate Dough Gluten-Free Sweet Enriched Pizza Dough Almond Cream Vanilla Pastry Cream Chocolate Ganache Lemon Curd Braided Challah, Pulla, Tsoureki, or Pletzl Flatbread Fruit Galettes Blush Apple Tart Banana Cream Hand Pie Skillet Apple Pie THE SECRET ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ALSO BY JEFF HERTZBERG, M.D., AND ZOË FRANÇOIS SOURCES FOR BAKING PRODUCTS SOURCES CONSULTED INDEX Copyright Page INTRODUCTION Lunch with Jeff and Zoë “Jeff and Zoë have an ideal friendship: They share an obsession with food, and they’ve managed to turn it into their work. I should know, because I’ve spent the better part of the last eight years slipping around my kitchen floor like a pizza pie on a floury paddle (Jeff is my husband). I sat down for lunch with Jeff and Zoë recently and they started talking about their favorite subject: pizza.”— Laura Silver L: Is either of you willing to claim a favorite pizza? Jeff: I love them all, but especially anything with roasted red peppers and eggplant—something caramelizes in the skin and transforms the flavors. Zoë: I have to say the Turkish lamb pizza. You sprinkle the spiced meat with parsley and onions and squeeze lemon over it and then roll it up like a crepe. It’s unlike any pizza I’ve had and it’s fun to eat. L: Is there one particular place you can find the best pizza, do you think? Zoë: Naples. L: That was a quick answer. Zoë: The pizza was incredible. L: And why was that? Zoë: Well, for one thing, the setting is so dramatic. And it’s their food. Pizza is what the people actually eat. We went to a restaurant that had nothing on the menu but two pizzas: Margherita (tomato, basil, and mozzarella) and marinara (tomato, no cheese). That was the whole menu, and there were lines out the door. It’s a $2.50 meal. The crust was delicate and really salty, which I love. L: How about you, Jeff? Where do you think you can find the best pizza? Jeff: I wish I could say it was a pizza joint near where I grew up in New York, but … L: But that wasn’t such great pizza, was it? Jeff: No, it wasn’t. But I worked there, delivering pizzas in high school, so it’s my sentimental favorite. I loved what Zoë said about the setting—and the memory of the time and place. I don’t even know if we really remember the flavor of food we ate years later. Food is so wrapped up in what you’re doing, who you’re with, what you’re drinking—the whole experience, not just the direct effect on your taste buds. Zoë: That’s right, setting is everything. In Naples there are laws about how these pizzas are made, but they didn’t taste the same from one restaurant to the next— even though they had these crazy guidelines that they had to follow. So the chef, the oven, the weather, the people you are with—they all make a difference. Jeff: I’m not entirely convinced that Italy’s pizza is better than American. I haven’t been to Italy in twenty years but we had pizza in Rome that we thought was great. I remember the setting, I remember walking around with it, I remember being with Laura, but do I remember what it tasted like? I have no idea—until I go back, all I can tell you is that American pizza has become world-class. Zoë: When I was a kid we’d visit New York City and get Ray’s (there’s one on every corner) and I absolutely loved that style—dripping with cheese, and soft, with a fluffy crust. I really love almost all pizza. Jeff: So do I! Zoë: That’s why this is a perfect book for me—I’ve gotten to eat pizza three times a day. Jeff: What I love about pizza is that it doesn’t have to be taken seriously. It’s not a serious person’s food. L: Talk about how you collaborate. Do you each develop recipes separately? Jeff: Yes and no. We’re in touch constantly and coordinate our recipes as they develop, and then we get together at the coffee shop to sample our creations, critique them. Zoë: We give each other criticism and encouragement. And more criticism. We’re a good pair because we bring very different things to the table, literally. L: What do you each bring? Zoë: Jeff came up with the five-minutes-a-day concept and he was not confined