www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help ARROW GUIDE PROPER ARROWS ARE ESSENTIAL If you're one of the many bowhunters who select arrows each season by just grabbing a handful from the miscellaneous arrow bucket at the local store, you may be surprised to learn that you've been cheating yourself. Shooting the proper arrows will greatly improve your accuracy and success in the field - and for less money than you might think. If you want reliable and accurate performance from your compound bow, your arrow must be specifically matched to YOUR bow setup. There is no such thing as a "one size fits all" arrow. An improperly sized and/or poorly constructed arrow will not only fly erratically, profoundly degrading your accuracy, but it may present a safety hazard for you and your expensive compound bow. If you are serious about bowhunting, you owe it to yourself (and the game you pursue) to shoot the right ammunition. Modern archery is a technical sport. So there are a number of technical considerations to juggle when selecting arrows: proper spine, FOC balance, weight, straightness, fletching material, fletching angle, arrow length, etc. And if you're feeling a bit lost, don't worry. This isn't exactly rocket-science - this selection guide will provide you with all the information you'll need to choose the right arrows for your bow. These next sections will take you step-by-step through the process of selecting and ordering custom carbon arrows for YOUR bow system. We hope you find this help guide useful. PARTS OF AN ARROW Let start with the basics: The parts of a modern hunting arrow are pretty straight forward, but these parts will be referred to throughout this help guide. So before we really get going here, let's take a moment to bone-up on our arrow jargon. The foundation of every arrow is the SHAFT, a long hollow tube usually made of aluminium or carbon/graphite composite materials. The rear of the arrow is fitted with a small piece of moulded plastic called a NOCK, which allows the arrow to physically attach to the bow's string. At the front of the arrow is a small aluminium (sometimes plastic) sleeve called an insert. The insert gets glued into the end of the shaft and provides a threaded hole in which to screw in the arrow's TIP. A tip doesn't necessarily have to be a practice point (as pictured here). A standard insert allows you to screw-in and use of a variety of tips in the same arrow (broadheads, judo- points, blunt-tips, field points, fishing tips, etc.). The last component is the arrow's FLETCHING. The arrow's fletching is usually done with colourful parabolic shaped pieces of soft plastic (vanes) or feathers. In most cases, the three fletches are glued onto the shaft in an equally spaced circular pattern, with two fletches one colour (the hen-fletches) and the third fletch a different colour (the cock-fletch). - 1 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help STANDARDS OF MEASUREMENT The standard AMO Method of measuring an arrow is to find the distance between the bottom of the groove of the nock (where the string rests in the nock) to the end of the arrow, not including the tip. If you are buying replacements for your existing arrows, be sure to measure your arrow length using AMO standards before ordering custom carbon arrows. Once an arrow is cut, the process can't be undone. So as in carpentry, the “measure twice and cut once” philosophy must be observed. If you already have existing arrows which fit your bow properly, simply measure one by this method and order the same size. If you are unsure about what arrow length is appropriate for your bow setup, the next section may help. MEASURING THE ADJUSTED DRAW LENGTH OF A BOW The proper length for your arrow will depend upon several factors: the draw length of the bow, the type of bow you have, and the type & position of your arrow rest. Before we dive into this issue, we should briefly discuss how the draw length of a bow is measured. Officially - according to the standard AMO method - a bow's draw length setting can be found by measuring the distance between the groove of the nock - to a position 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the grip - when the bow is at full draw. Confused? Not to worry. There's a simplified method too. Conveniently enough, for most bows, 1 3/4" forward from the pivot point of the grip puts you roughly at the outer edge of the bow's riser. So without splitting too many hairs, we can say that a bow's draw length is approximately from the nock point to the front of the riser - when the bow is drawn back. So if you drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set for approximately 29" draw length. If you're truly an archery junkie, you may have also heard about the concept of True Draw Length, which is an older and much less popular method of measurement. Officially, True Draw Length is the distance at full draw from the nocking point to the low (pivot) point of the grip. So a True Draw Length measurement will be 1.75" short of an AMO draw length measurement. There isn't much talk about True Draw Length these days, and it's fine point of archery jargon that really isn't worth dissecting. But if the question ever comes up on the ‘Millionaire: Hot Seat’, you'll know. Also, we recommend you not automatically trust the factory sticker on your bow that indicates draw length, but measure for yourself. In many cases, the manufacturer's sticker and the ACTUAL draw length of the bow can be quite different - sometimes dramatically. And since changing your draw length may necessitate changing arrows too - we can avoid some trouble here by thinking ahead. If your bow does not already fit you comfortably, you should have the - 2 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help draw length adjusted before ordering your custom arrows. Arrows which may be perfect for a bow at 29" draw length, may be totally inappropriate for the same bow set at 27" draw length (much more on this topic later). MEASURING THE DRAW LENGTH REQUIREMENT OF THE SHOOTER Obviously, the draw length setting of the bow and the required draw length of the shooter should match. If they don't, we have some work to do first before thinking about what arrows to select. Unlike a traditional recurve bow that can be drawn back to virtually any length, a compound bow will draw back only a specific distance before it "stops." Compound bows are designed to be shot from the full-draw position. If a compound bow is set for a 29" draw length, it should always be shot from the full 29" draw position. A bow that's set for 29" draw cannot drawn back to 30" or 31", without modifying the setup on the bow (or forcibly overdrawing the bow - a dangerous practice). Similarly, a compound bow should not be shot from a position less than full draw either. Where the bow stops, you stop. So if you're a 29" draw, then your bow should be a 29" draw. Easy enough! To measure your draw length, determine the length of your arm-span in inches. Stand with your arms out and palms facing forward. Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally. Have someone else help you, and measure from the tip of one middle finger to the other. Then simply divide that number by 2.5. The quotient is your approximate draw length (in inches) for your body size. The majority of compound bow owners set their bows for too much draw length, which results in poor shooting form - inaccuracy - and painful string slap on the forearm. You will better enjoy - and be more successful with your compound bow when it is fitted properly to your body. And if in doubt, choose a little LESS draw length rather than a little more. If you've heard that longer draw length bows shoot faster, you heard right. But don't even think of shooting an excessively long draw length just for the sake of generating more speed. That's a very poor trade-off which you will regret. Shooting your bow at an overly long draw length won't make you more macho. It will just make you miss the target. So don't do it. Shoot the correct draw length. If you are a person of average proportions, your arm-span will be roughly equal to your height (in inches). So there is often a direct correlation between a person's height and their draw length as well. Once you have computed your draw length using the method above, you can double-check yourself by using the scale below - to see if your number is within the expected range. - 3 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help MORE DRAW LENGTH DISCUSSION How close do you need to get? Within an inch? Half-inch? A quarter-inch? This issue could be debated, as there probably isn't a right and wrong answer to this question. For most shooters, a ±½" change in draw length is hardly noticed. To be realistic, half-inch sizes are probably precise enough (27½", 28", 28½, 29", 29½", etc.), particularly for the purposes of hunting and recreational archery. Besides, as your bow's string ages and stretches over time (as ALL strings do), your draw length will slightly increase - a little fraction at a time. So constantly maintaining a razor-specific 28 13/16" draw length may be a frustrating endeavour for you and the archery-shop. If you're new to the sport, and unsure what draw length is appropriate for you, we strongly recommend you just play the averages and use the chart above. But admittedly, there is no perfect formula to solve this problem. Every shooter is different and the opinions on the methodology for measuring and checking draw length vary considerably throughout the industry: the yardstick against the breastbone, the fist against the wall, tip of the finger to the top of the shoulder, the arm-span method, etc. Without the benefit of an actual bow to draw back and actually check - each of these methods only provides us with an estimate. You'll likely find that even the "pros" don't necessarily agree. If you go into several different archery shops to be measured for draw length, you're bound to get a variety of "expert" opinions. So before you get frustrated, remember that determining an individual's draw length isn't exactly a measurement of scientific certainty. So if you're just getting started in the sport, there's no need to get too carried away computing the square-root of your hypotenuse. Instead, we recommend you just play the averages and choose an initial draw length that's similar to others of your same size and stature (reference the chart above). There will always be time to "tweak" your draw length a little as you gain experience and learn to analyse your shooting form more closely. YOU will ultimately be the final judge on your own perfect personal draw length. PROPER LENGTH OF AN ARROW Safety first! Arrows that are too short for your bow setup are a serious hazard. Even an arrow that is just long enough is too short. The best safety practice is to make sure your arrows sit at least 1" forward of your arrow rest when the bow is at full draw. A little bit of extra arrow length gives the arrows an important margin of safety. An arrow that is too short can lodge behind the arrow rest at full draw. If this happens and you don't notice it before you fire the bow, the arrow could buckle and snap upon release ... possibly sending shards of carbon into your bow hand or arm. This is called an obstructed path shot ... which is a very very bad thing. - 4 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help Unfortunately, some shooters (and shops) deliberately cut arrows too close to the arrow rest, usually to minimize arrow mass and get the fastest possible arrow speeds. But this practice regrettably comes at the expense of safety. The extra 1-2 fps you gain by cutting arrows "just long enough" isn't worth risking an arrow shaft stuck in the forearm. So never shoot arrows which are too short. On the other hand, shooting an excessively long arrow isn't so smart either. If your arrow length is excessive, your arrow will have additional (and unnecessary) mass and the additional length will increase the arrow's spine requirements (more on this later). Basically, extra-long arrows significantly decrease your arrow speeds and limit the performance of your bow. So choosing a safe yet optimally performing arrow length is very important. If you have a modern centre-shot cutaway riser bow which is already setup, finding your optimal arrow length is easy. Simply draw an arrow back to full draw and hold, while another person (safely standing to the side of course) takes a Sharpie marker and makes a mark on the arrow approximately 1" forward of the arrow rest. Then measure the arrow from the groove of the nock (like previously explained) to the mark on the arrow, and you've got it. Unfortunately, this doesn't apply to everyone ... especially those with older bows or traditional bows. So let's look at this in more detail. ARROW LENGTH MISCONCEPTIONS Some archers believe proper arrow length should be equal to bow's draw length. This is a dangerously incorrect rule-of-thumb. In some cases, proper arrow length may equal the bow's draw length. But modern compound bows tend to require less arrow length, while older compound bows and traditional bows require more. So DO NOT assume your draw length and proper arrow length numbers directly correspond. In most cases they will not. BOW TYPE & RISER STYLE CONSIDERATIONS There are several factors to consider here. So we'll start with the big one - riser type (the riser is the "handle" portion of the bow). Some years ago, as traditional magnesium moulded risers gave way to the production of CNC machined aluminium, we were blessed by the welcome innovation of the centre-shot cutaway riser (Figure A). The centre-shot cutaway riser has a much wider arrow shelf, and the centre section of the riser is shifted well to the side. This allows the true centre-shot of the bow (where your arrow rest should line up left and right) to be spaced far enough away from the riser's edge as to allow feathers and vanes to easily pass by the inside edge without any contact with the bow. A brilliant idea! Almost all new compound bows are now of this style. A basic moulded riser (Figure B) does not have this feature. If you have an 80's or early 90's vintage bow, you almost certainly have this type of riser. In a non-cutaway bow, the actual centre-shot of the bow is very close to (if not right against) the edge of the riser. This type of riser typically uses a flipper/plunger style rest mounted right against the side of the bow, where a cutaway riser generally cannot. - 5 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help It is important to identify what type of bow you have. If you have a modern cutaway bow (Fig A), your proper arrow length is often less than the bow's AMO draw length. If you have an older non-cutaway bow (Fig B), your proper arrow length will be more than the bow's AMO draw length. CLEARANCE FOR BROADHEADS With a traditional moulded riser bow, arrows must be AT LEAST as long as the bow's draw length if you ever intend to use broadheads or other tips larger than the diameter of the arrow. Since the arrow rides along close to the riser, there isn't enough room to draw back a broadhead over the arrow shelf such that one of the blades doesn't snag on the edge of the riser as you're coming to full draw. So if you have an older bow without the benefit of a centre-shot cutaway riser, choosing your arrow length is easy. In this case, we recommend you order arrows 1/2-1" longer than the bow's actual adjusted draw length. And regardless of what kind of riser you have, if you intend to shoot specialty small game hunting tips (Judo Points, Snaro's, Condor Tips, Turkey Guillotine Heads, etc.) which are unusually wide, you will definitely need arrows that are slightly longer than the bow's draw length. Even a centre-shot cutaway bow doesn't have sufficient clearance to draw that type of tip beyond the outer edge of the riser. Now, if you shoot a modern bow with a centre-shot cutaway riser, the choice isn't so simple. Since a centre-shot cutaway riser allows clearance for common broadheads to be drawn back beyond the outer edge of the riser, you can shoot a considerably shorter arrow. The shorter an arrow is, the lighter it will be and the faster it will fly. We'll discuss the issue of arrow weight vs. speed in much more detail a bit later in this guide. But ultimately, the position of your arrow rest determines the minimum arrow length for a modern centre-shot cutaway bow. In most cases, trimming your arrows 1-1.5" beyond your arrow rest will make for an ideal arrow length on your modern cutaway bow. ARROW REST TYPE & POSITION ON CUTAWAY BOWS Some arrow rests mount more rearward than others, permitting the use of shorter arrows. There's even a device known as an overdraw, that's specifically designed to relocate and reposition the arrow rest rearward - just so a shorter arrow can be used. However, with the increasing popularity of lightweight carbon arrow shafts, overdraws aren't really necessary any more, and are rarely used on modern hunting rigs. But some type of modern arrow rests still function much like an overdraw - locating the rest position closer to the shooter. The diagram below illustrates how the position of the rest changes the bow's necessary arrow length. With a standard TM Hunter prong style rest, the proper arrow length is usually 1-1.5" less than the bow's draw length. With a Whisker Biscuit or similar rest which mounts just behind the riser, proper arrow length is usually 1.5-2" less than the draw length. And with a Muzzy Zero Effect or other far-rearward mounted rest, proper arrow length can be as much as 2-2.5" less than the bow's draw length. However, it should be noted that most arrow rests can be mounted and adjusted in different positions. So, consider this as an estimation only. - 6 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help Again, the most reliable method is to actually draw back an arrow and measure (as described above). Once your draw length is set perfectly and your arrow rest is mounted in its permanent position, determining your optimal arrow length is easy. But if you don't have a field-ready bow to measure, you can make a reasonable estimate based on the bow's draw length and type of arrow rest installed. Remember to error on the side of caution. In one way, a new arrow is like a new 2x4. One that's a little long can always be shortened - but not the reverse. Once you cut a stock length arrow, the deal is done. Custom carbon arrows are not returnable to stores. Once the arrows are trimmed to the length you specify, they're forever yours. ARROW LENGTH EFFECTS ARROW SPINE (STIFFNESS) Before you make up your mind about your arrow length, there's one more detail we'll need to consider. The length of your arrow is a factor in determining the proper stiffness, or spine, for your perfect arrow. The longer your arrow is, the more limber it will act when shot. The shorter your arrow is, the more stiff it will act when shot. We'll cover this issue in more detail in the next section, but you should be aware that shooting an extra-long arrow often results in a double-whammy regarding arrow weight. If you shoot an excessively long arrow, not only will the excess shaft weight result in a heavier and slower flying arrow, but the added length may necessitate changing to an even heavier/stiffer arrow spine. For those of you looking to bulk-up your carbon arrows to gain a little KE (more on this later too), a little more arrow length may be a good thing. But most shooters want to get as much snap as possible out of their high performance bows, so keeping an eye on excess arrow weight is a big consideration. CHOOSING TO TRIM YOUR OWN ARROWS When you purchase your new set of arrows, you have two choices regarding arrow length. Most raw shafts come in stock-lengths of 32- 34", so that they can be trimmed to make a proper AMO length arrow to suit virtually any bow. You may choose to receive your arrows UNCUT (i.e. full-length) OR you may receive your arrows already trimmed to length and inserted. There normally isn’t an added charge for trimming and inserting your arrows, but here are a few things to consider before you decide. Carbon arrows should only be cut with a high-speed abrasive-wheel saw. Attempting to trim your new carbon arrows with your hacksaw or your plumber's tubing cutter will result in splintered fibres and a weakened arrow shaft. Using a good quality arrow saw is best. However, with a little patience, you can get a respectable cut using your Dremel Rotary Tool with an - 7 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help abrasive cutting wheel attachment. So if you're the "handy" type, you may wish to order arrows full-length and trim your own. If you would rather avoid the handyman hassle and you're already sure of your arrow length, most shops will be happy to professionally trim and insert your new arrows free of charge. In this case, once your arrows arrive, you'll be ready to shoot as soon as you open the box. However, before you select this option, you should double-check your measurements for accuracy. Again, it's always safer to measure twice and cut once, as once your arrows are trimmed to the length you specify, they cannot be returned for an exchange or refund. ARROW STRAIGHTNESS AND THE ± 0.0$ FACTOR Most carbon arrows are advertised to have a specific straightness tolerance between .001" and .006". The straighter the arrow, the more expensive they will typically be. Before we get too deep into this topic, it's worth noting that there doesn't seem to be an accepted universal method for HOW arrow straightness is measured. Per ATA/ASTM standards, arrow straightness should be measured along the full length of the shaft minus two inches. But as we understand it, this is NOT how things actually go inside the industry. On a number of occasions, we have heard arrow companies accuse each other of cheating their straightness measurements - either by measuring only short sections of their arrows, or by obtaining their straightness numbers via undisclosed measurement methodologies. If you think the bow business is cut-throat, you should witness how the arrow companies go at it behind closed doors. To avoid being shanked at the next trade show, we'll stay neutral, and assume that everyone’s' arrow straightness numbers are reasonably honest and comparable. With that said, let's examine the typical straightness "classes" of arrows. Most standard-grade carbon arrows have an advertised straightness of .005-.006". These shafts are usually marketed exclusively to the hunter and beginning archers. For the purposes of big game hunting and general target use, standard-grade shafts are more than adequate. A typical human hair is about .004"-.006" in diameter. So even a basic carbon shaft of .006" straightness is quite good, and straighter than you could possibly perceive without specialized equipment. But... making and selling arrows is a very competitive business. So most arrow shaft manufacturers also offer a mid-grade shafts which will have an advertised straightness of around .003-.004", and "pro" grade shafts claiming a straightness of .001-.002". And as you might expect, these premium grade arrows fetch a premium price. If you're the kind of buyer who always goes for the good stuff, then by all means, buy the straightest shaft you can find. But before you shell out the green for a ±.001 shaft, there are couple things you should know. First, the difference in a ±.006" shaft and a ±.001" shaft is more razor-thin than you might think. Carbon arrow shafts are constructed by taking very thin layers of carbon sheets and rolling them up into perfectly straight tubes (usually 6ft. long or so), much like you might roll-up a big map. Once wound, the carbon tubes are then heat-treated to bond all the layers together. When the heating process is complete and the carbon tubes cool down to room temperature, they are cut into sections (raw shafts). Some of the shafts, particularly those that come from the centre of the roll, retain their ±.001" straightness while other sections distort slightly from the heating/cooling process. As we understand it, the results vary from run to run and day to day. In most cases, even the manufacturer doesn't know how the day's crop of shafts will come out. But once the shafts are - 8 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help made, the manufacturer measures the straightness of each shaft and sorts them accordingly for banding and sale. One sort may be named and marketed as one arrow, another sort as something else. For example, the Beman Bowhunter ±.006" @ US$64.95 p/dz and the Beman ICS Hunter ±.003" @ US$89.95 are just two different sorts of the same shaft - same raw materials - same construction technique. Same is true for the popular Gold Tip Expedition ±.006", Gold Tip XT ±.003", and the Gold Tip Pro ±.001". They're literally cut from the same cloth. Small variations in the daily manufacturing environment (humidity, pressure, air convection patterns, etc.) along with tiny deviations in the characteristics of the raw materials ultimately determine the straightness of the finished product. On one particular day, the manufacturer might yield an entire batch of ±.001" shafts, or an entire batch no better than ±.006", or even a mixed bag of straightnesses, all from the very same processes and materials. The finer tricks of the trade are carefully guarded secrets, as the art of consistently building straighter arrow shafts is literally a technical exercise in splitting hairs. But make no mistake, arrow manufacturers would rather avoid the ±.006" days. The more ±.001" days a manufacturer has, the more money they can make. Why? Because straighter shafts, whether they cost more to manufacture or not, are worth more in the marketplace. So don't be fooled into thinking that your set of $129 ±.001" pro-grade shafts are somehow fundamentally better constructed, stronger, or made from finer materials than a basic $69 a dozen ±.006" hunting shaft. In most cases, they're just a few thousandths of an inch from being the exact same product. STRAIGHTER ARROWS SHOOT STRAIGHTER, RIGHT? From a pure physics standpoint, yes! Arrow straightness certainly does matter. Straighter arrows undeniably fly more accurately. In long-range laboratory conditions with a mechanical shooting machine, the straightest arrows with the best spine consistencies will always group best. But try to keep this issue in reasonable perspective. You are not a mechanical shooting machine. You don't shoot in laboratory conditions, and you probably don't shoot at extreme distances (100+ yards). The straightness difference in a ±.006" arrow and a ±.001" arrow is literally the width of a single human hair. So realistically, the ±.001" arrow probably has more to do with selling arrows than shooting arrows. The truth is, only a handful of the world's archers actually have enough shooting skill to differentiate between a very good ±.003" arrow and a "pro grade" ±.001" arrow. And within the typical bowhunting range, any difference would be practically imperceptible. Nonetheless, bowhunters tend to attribute their successes or failures to their equipment rather than to their actual skills. So owning and shooting a set of professional grade ±.001" arrows may provide some bowhunters with an edge in confidence, even if the actual technical advantage is negligible. If you're one of the many archers who believe that success is only one more purchase away, buy whatever arrows you like. Just remember that super-straight arrows won't correct poor shooting form. In the end, the benefits of a good practice regimen and proper bow tuning will FAR outweigh the benefits of shooting expensive arrow shafts. - 9 - © Hunter’s Friend www.TwinCoastArchers.com Archery Help ARE CARBON ARROWS STRAIGHTER THAN ALUMINIUM? Yes and no. While a carbon arrow's advertised specs may be no straighter than a typical aluminium shaft, carbon arrows resist distorting and "bending out of shape" much better than aluminium arrows. Though an aluminium shaft may BEGIN with a similar ±.003" straightness, its straightness quickly deteriorates through normal use and handling. So after a few months of use, your aluminium arrow set may contain a few arrows that are at original specs and some that are grossly out of straightness. Carbon arrows generally do not retain this kind of "memory" after being stressed (bent). So your carbon arrow set stays much more straight and uniform - even with heavy use. Some archers even joke that there are only two states of a carbon arrow: straight or broken, but never bent. While that's not entirely accurate, it does help to illustrate the point. ARROW WEIGHT: GRAINS NOT GRAMS The actual weight of your finished arrow is also very important. Arrows which are too heavy will fly too slowly and with too much loss of trajectory. Lighter arrows fly more quickly, but arrows which are too light can damage your equipment. So you'll need to know a thing or two about arrow mass and industry safety standards. How heavy should your arrows be? Well, let's start at the top. First thing ... the weight of an arrow (as well as projectiles in most shooting sports) is customarily measured in GRAINS. Grains (gr) and grams (g) are totally different units of measure. So don't confuse them. The grain is a British system unit - based on the weight of a grain of barley. A gram is an entirely different unit of measurement. So let's just try to just forget about grams for now. A grain is very small unit (only 1/7000th of a pound), so if you would like to have the ability to accurately weigh your own arrows, you'll need a specialized scale. You can purchase an archer's scale that's specifically calibrated in grains for under $50. However, when you order custom arrows from a professional archery shop, your arrow set will arrive already weighed and certified by one of their professional arrow builders. ARE LIGHTER ARROWS BETTER? This is a hotly debated topic that we'll cover in more detail further down this guide. But the fact is, lighter arrows fly faster with less loss of trajectory. A faster arrow won't necessarily penetrate better, but it will make it to the target more quickly. For some bowhunters and 3D shooters, this is a great benefit. A bow that shoots very fast is often described as "shooting flat." The "flat" part is a reference to the natural rainbow-shaped parabolic flight-path that all arrows invariably take. A faster arrow travels with less perceptible arc, so it is described as shooting "flat," although "flatter" might be the more accurate word. Either way, a fast flat- shooting arrow is something many shooters seek in a bowhunting or 3D rig. In the current archery market, speed sells. Right or wrong, it's a fact. Like in many industries, archery manufacturers are under constant pressure to make things go faster. As a result, each year brings a new bumper-crop of even lighter arrow shafts, better string materials, more efficient bow designs, friction-reducing components, etc. Again, there is some disagreement on this issue, and we'll hammer out the pro's and con's a bit later, but the main idea is, lighter - 10 - © Hunter’s Friend