Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Fougere & Lavender’s Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2011 FFrraaggrraannccee BBooookkss IInncc.. @@wwwwww..ppeerrffuummeerrbbooookk..ccoomm Glen O. Brechbill “To my late father and beloved mother without them non of this work would have been possible” II ARRANTING FINE PERFUMECOMPOSITIONS- THEFOUGERELAVENDER’S© This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavender’s / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 626 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187 Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTEDIN THEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S About the Book The fougère & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intended for Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a masculine fragrance concept. One of the earlier fougère fragrances was Fougère Royale by Houbigant. This old fragrance house created one in the 18th century. Like many fragrance families a single fragrance gave birth to a wide range of fragrance types. Until fifteen years ago there was no regulatory body governing the use of essential oils in today's fragrances. This changed with the ( IFRA ) organization founded and funded by Givaudan, IFF, Symrise, Firmenich and Takasago. Like many industries these five control approximately eighty percent of the market. Today sadly one can not incorporate many of the key aromatic materials into a fougère, lavender scent because of skin irritation problems experienced by a monority percentage of the population. This Gestapo type group ruthlessly hunts and hounds out any dissidents who don't agree with their draconian amendments. One can not use coumarin, oakmoss, patchouli, lavender and many natural citrus materials. The goal of the big five is to of course control the industry by eliminating competition in this case natural ingredients in favor of syn- thetics based on petroleum. My opinion has been and always will be the peanut analogy. If one experiences a problem with a product don't use it. My niece has a peanut allergy, and she will never know the joy and pleas- ure that nuts can bring. Are peanuts banned because of folk’s food reaction? Of course not. The fragrance industry for whatever reason and the artistic creative craft are slowly being ruined by five fra- grance houses because of greed. Again, if you are a perfumer employed by this industry speaking out will get you fired and blacklisted for life. This is what happened to me many years ago. An unscrupulous former employer needed my first book titled A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients to save a lazy family mem- ber work. I was promoted to a Jr. Perfumer's position in a coy attempt to gain a copy of my earlier then unfin- ished notes. Not knowing then how this industry worked I soon found my self blacklisted. Getting even artistically I decided would take careful thought, and a lot of creative work. Crafting each book rested in part of learning desktop publishing, graphic arts including font design. One might call my inter- est in fragrance an obsession. I would tend to agree with this assessment. Once one learns the fragrance art or language the only way to let it out is by creative exercise. As an artist I find enjoyment each night by creating a single fragrance on paper. Again, each fragrance is based on assembling a theme with certain type of aro- matic materials. Perfumer's specialize creating fragrances for a single fragrance family or brand. They learn the art by watching their mentor. This is called an apprenticeship. One is unable to work in this industry with- out serving in an offical apprenticeship. There are self-taught artists like myself, but not many. 3 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill Each of my compositional books is a unique presentation into the creative art of an individual fragrance family. Why hasn't someone else done this before one asks? When an individual is selected into this unique profession you have to swear an oath to keep the fragrance art and creative thought process a secret. This is part of the reason why there are so few books on the subject of fragrances available particularly the composi- tion. Today no perfumer would be permitted to display formulas in any correct proportions. Even though fra- grance houses have hundred's of thousands of formulas in their possession they are paranoid of any one outside the hands of a few actually learning the art. In order to understand the art one must know the materials inti- mately, and how they blend together in various fragrance blends in correct percentages. Considering those under thirty today in age on the average read a single book for pleasure in a year I doubt in the near future whether any of today's artists will actually create one. It takes a great deal of work to come up with an idea, and then turn it into a book. Learning the high skill of desktop publishing took a lot of cre- ative effort and energy. My former employer who cheated me out of a lucrative and well paid career knows today that they made a major blunder letting me go many years ago. My compensation for a career that didn't happen are my books. Each book will have my picture in it. Although it is from long ago, it is my hope that my work will live on, and help future artists in his and her pursuit of knowledge. It is my firm belief that I saved a lot of information that is slowly disappearing from the world wide web. The Google search engine is a fine one. Its problem however, is not being able to sort through the massive data and display it in a correct form. In other words it can't differentiate between relevance information and the quality of that information versus irrelevance. It will rank a single article up front, and leave a web site that has over ten thousand pages three to five pages after it. A single news article will be kept in prime location dele- gating important information to the rear. As many know Google is scooping up every orphan book and publi- cation out there on the www and in libraries. Due to the copyright limbo nature of this material who actually owns it is up for grabs, and will be later sorted out by the Court. I set all of my books at 50 % view to make them useless beyond myself including removing the printing function. Obviously material that I displayed in this book could never be published. The purpose was to showcase how each fragrance family came to be. In many cases a single fragrance started a family that can have tens of thousands of off spring. Each fragrance is unique in its construction. Again, at the same time many are simi- lar, and in reality many smell alike because they are often very similar in construction. Lacking essential oils the synthetics lack diffusion. This is the reason why many last only several hours after applied. Fine fragrances are getting cheaper and cheaper. A household type product of twenty years ago contained more essential oils then due today's synthetic blends. One well-known perfumer employs less then thirty-fra- grance materials in his fine fragrance construction. I classify this type of fragrance of a house hold nature. Everyone is seeking to make more money with fewer materials. This in turn produces cheaper fragrances and is part of the problem why the fine art is slowly dying. Do my fragrances that are in this collection work you next want to know? My answer to that of course is who knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any one of my creations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the cost for many of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell is the 4 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S fine art of fragrance. It is my opinion that the composition itself should be an integral part of advertising, and marketing of a fine fragrance. However, due to the paranoia in the fragrance industry governing a trade secret that is the composition, which in turn creates a fragrance I doubt whether this will ever happen. In order to understand a formula one must know at the very least several thousand aromatic materials. It is my opinion in the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fragrance will have completely disappeared. High-speed computers plus automatic compounding machines will replace it. Each fragrance house has millions of compositions in their libraries. A single successful fragrance can have many thousands of variations. I am sure the next generation of Artificial Intelligence computer's will be the noses of the future. The major players in the industry Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have opened fine art creative centers in China, Brazil and India. Sooner or later due to cutting costs no one will know for sure the true source of any given fragrance. A perfumer in China can create a fine fragrance for a Wall Mart or Chanel brand. This is the main reason why there is nothing new today. An individual scent belongs to a fragrance fami- ly. To be in that family one has to be related to a fragrance in that family. If a perfumer comes up with some- thing different which I believe is not possible, a competitor will duplicate it with a gas-chromatography com- puter inside a week. In today's fragrance world there is nothing new except the endless hype show casing some- thing unique. In reality there is nothing new except cheaper fragrances that contain little or no essential oils plus fewer aromatic materials. I was blacklisted by the fragrance industry through an unscrupulous former employer many years ago. Due to the computer and the world wide web I have been able to display my creative talent to its fullest. No one has come knocking on my door seeking my services. If I can do this type of original creative work, and am under employed what does that tell you about this industry? Non of my books will ever be printed. Due to the nature of the pdf file I can not sell at this time a single copy without fear of unauthorized distribution to other channels. This book titled Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougère & Lavender's took over four months of work to create. Careful study will display how similar many fragrances actually are, and why perfumers are able to come up with new fine fragrances with several days of experimentation. Each fragrance can be easily changed anywhere in a formula with careful adjustment of the parts per thousand arrangement, and by the addi- tion and deletion of other aromas. I could have taken a single fragrance and made hundreds. I chose not to because painting the same picture over and over again gets very boring. Is the art in danger of dying you want to know. Due to the folks at ( IFRA ) and of course greed by the big five I think it is slowly changing, and not for the better. The fine art of the perfumer who are masters at manip- ulating aroma materials have to go along with changes in their palette in order to work. Fight the system, and one will find themselves out of work as happened to me many years ago. Enjoy. 5 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill A World of Fragrance’s - The FOUGÈRE Lavender’s 6 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S International Directory by Country & House Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management Fleurchem, Inc. Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc. Flexitral, Inc. North America Florachem Corporation Florida Chemical Company, Inc. Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc. The Spice Trader Good Scents Company United States Gorlin & Company Graham Chemical Corporation Alfa Chem American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc. Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances Astral Extracts J & E Sozio, Inc. Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China Bell Flavors & Fragrances Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution Millennium Chemicals Carrubba Inc. Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients Citrus & Allied Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic Creative Fragrances Ltd. Pental Manufacturing DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils Polarome International 7 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill Prima Fleur Brazil Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda. Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. Science Lab Sensient Technologies Corporation Petit Marie Sigma Aldrich Spectrum Chemicals Rai Ingredients Sundial Fragrances & Flavors Sunrose Aromatics Europe Texarome Belgium Treatt USA Inc. Trisenx, Inc. Synaco Group Uhe Company, Inc. Bulgaria Ungerer & Company Vesselino Trading Company Vigon International, Inc. Denmark Walsh, John D., Company, Inc. Wambesco Gmbh Central America France Mexico A.N.E.C. Esencias y Materiales Lozmat Adrian Industries SAS Albert Vielle SA Tecnaal Group Aromatic Collection Aromax South America Axxence SARL Argentina BFA Laboratories Barosyl S.A. Esarco Biolandes Parfumerie Euma Charabot & Company Inc. Fritzsche SAICA Clos D’Aguzon San Miguel Agici y F Diffusions Aromatiques Dulcos Trading Exaflor 8 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGÈRE & LAVENDER’S H.Reynaud & Fils Hungary IPRA Fragrances Silvestris & Szilas Ltd. Interchim Italy Laboratoire Monique Remy Baller s.r.l. Mane SA Moraflor Produits Aromatiques Capua s.r.l. Muller & Koster Citroflor di G. PCAS Espira S.p.A Payan Bertrand SA Prodarom Farotti Essences srl Prodasynth Moelhausen S.P.A. Rhodia Organics Robertet SA Portugal SIPAA. Ch. Berthier Kruetz Helmut Sovimpex Symarome Spain Germany Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta Basf Cami de Fontainilles Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a. Eramex Aromatics Gmbh Lluche Essence Frey & Lau Gmbh Ventos, Ernesto S.A. Lothar-Streck Switzerland Paul Kaders GmbH Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh Firmenich Symrise GmbH & Co. KG Givaudan Fragrance Corporation Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG Puressence Wuresten Inc. 9 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill The Netherlands Fruitarom Industries Brighten Colorchem, B.V. Nardev Flavodor Asia PFW Aroma Chemicals China United Kingdom China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd. China Perfumer A & E Connock Ltd. Chinessence Ltd. Augustus OIls. Ld. HC Biochem British Society of Perfumers Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co. Buckton Home Page Ltd. Shanghai M & U International De Monchy Aromatics, Inc. Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co. Earth Oil Plantations Ltd. Hong Kong FD Copeland & Sons Ltd. Fine Chemical Trading Naradev Furest Day Lawson O’Laughlin Industries Global Essence Ltd. India Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd. Amen Organics JC Buck Ltd. Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Anupam Industries Lionel Hitchen Ltd. B.S. Industries Quality Analysis Bansal Aroma SRS Aromatics Ltd. FFC Aroma Flowersynth Venus Enterprises GMPCT Mediterranean Gyran Flavours Israel Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation Hindustan Mint & Agro Products Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. Indian Spices 10 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com