Project Gutenberg's Around the World in Seven Months, by Charles J. Gillis This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license Title: Around the World in Seven Months Author: Charles J. Gillis Release Date: August 18, 2013 [EBook #43495] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AROUND THE WORLD IN SEVEN MONTHS *** Produced by Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) TRAVELLING IN JAPAN. AROUND THE WORLD IN SEVEN MONTHS BY CHARLES J. GILLIS Printed for Private Distribution COPYRIGHT, 1891 BY CHARLES J. GILLIS The Knickerbocker Press, New York Printed and Bound by G. P. Putnam's Sons With the Compliments of the Author CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I.— Yokohama 1 II.— Yokohama 8 III.— Tokio 14 IV.— Nikko 19 V.— Miynoskita 22 VI.— Kobé 27 VII.— Osaka 31 VIII.— Hong-Kong 33 IX.— Canton 39 X.— Hong-Kong 46 XI.— Singapore 51 XII.— On Board the "Kaisar-I-Hand" 57 XIII.— Colombo 61 XIV.— Newava Eliya 66 XV.— On Board the "Rohilla" 70 XVI.— Calcutta 76 XVII.— Darjeeling 81 XVIII.— Benares 85 XIX.— Lucknow 90 XX.— Cawnpore 93 XXI.— Agra 95 XXII.— Delhi 99 XXIII.— Jeypore 105 XXIV.— Bombay 111 XXV.— On Board the "Khedive" 115 XXVI.— Through the Suez Canal 119 XXVII.— Cairo and the Pyramids 123 XXVIII.— Jaffa 132 XXIX.— Ramleh 134 XXX.— Jerusalem 136 XXXI.— Jaffa 140 XXXII.— On Board the "Poccir" 142 XXXIII.— Constantinople 147 XXXIV.— Conclusion 154 Distances Travelled 158 AROUND THE WORLD IN SEVEN MONTHS. [Pg v] [Pg 1] CHAPTER I. YOKOHAMA. Y o k o h a m a , J a p a n, O c t . 1 0 , 1 8 8 9 . AT 9.50 A.M., on the morning of the 8th of September I went aboard the vestibule train of the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad, at Forty-second Street, New York; and having travelled on the principal railroads around the world, I can truly say that no train which has ever carried me has approached this one in luxurious ease, comfort, and safety. The train rolled into the Chicago depot at 9.50 the next morning—exactly twenty-four hours. I was detained in Chicago for two days, and then left by the Rock Island route for San Francisco. At Ogden, we were detained two days by the burning of a bridge built over a ravine—one hundred feet long and about the same height. The fire destroyed the massive snow-sheds and great trees for a long distance. The fire took place Friday. Telegrams were sent to Sacramento, and the next day word came that twenty-one car loads of material had been sent with mechanics to erect a new bridge. The new bridge was erected in four days. Our train was the first to pass over it, and I remarked how substantially the new erection had been constructed. We reached the summit at noon, and the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, at midnight. On the 21st of September we went aboard the steamer Rio-de-Janeiro, built for the southern trade— 370 feet long, 38 feet wide, 3,500 tons—six tubular boilers, each 13 feet diameter, 10½ feet long. I remarked what heavy consumers of coal such shaped boilers must be, and the engineer said there was no room to put in any other kind. I found myself the sole occupant of a large and well ventilated state-room. At 3 P.M., Captain Ward, standing on the bridge, gave the signal, and the voice of an officer sang out, "All ashore that's going." Several hundreds of Chinese men and a dozen women, in showy dresses, crowded the wharf. The friends of the missionaries on the wharf sang a parting hymn. The big propeller started. A tug pulled the ship's bow around, and away we went on our voyage of 4,700 miles across the Pacific. We passed the Golden Gate and the Seal Islands—covered with huge seals—and then on towards our destination. I soon made the acquaintance of most of the passengers, forty-five in number—including fourteen missionaries of the Presbyterian Board, nice young people going out to their duties in China and Japan. I took my seat at the dining-table, and found that I had at my right an agreeable companion, a captain in the German army, and at the left a charming miss of ten, Bessie, daughter of J. De Romero, secretary of the Spanish Legation to China. The first week out was a rough one. The weather was bad, and the ship rolled fearfully, so that we could not walk on deck. The waves were immense, and consequently nearly every one was sick. I felt a little nausea for a couple of days, but soon did duty regularly at the fine feast placed before us three times a day, the specialty being splendid California fruits—peaches, plums, grapes, and oranges, any of which would bring a prize in an agricultural show. Day after day the tireless engine drove the propeller. The splendid ship rushed on and on, not a moment's stop the entire distance. Not a sail or a steamer seen from port to port, and not even a whale. Once some porpoises and flying-fish, and once, when a thousand miles from land, a land-hawk lighted on the cross-trees, and proceeded leisurely to feast on a captured bird, and during the night flew away. The never-ending water was very impressive in its desolation. Better weather came, the ship was steady, and we could walk on deck. My little friend and I romped along the deck from end to end in safety, but once a rude wave threw us down, and dashed us against the sides of the vessel, taking off some inches of skin from me, but the child was unhurt, and I did not mind a little thing like that. I had early made the acquaintance of Mr. Mathews, the chief engineer, and once went into the hold and inspected the boilers and machinery of the huge ship. I spent a good deal of time in the chief engineer's room, listening to strange tales of ship and shore. On the 9th inst., as we were approaching our destination, I was shown an engrossed resolution complimenting the captain, beautifully illustrated with a pen-and-ink sketch of the ship by Señor Romero. After dinner, one of the passengers was selected to make the presentation address. He said: "Ladies and gentlemen, fellow-passengers by the good ship Rio-de-Janeiro: I act with pleasure as chairman on this auspicious occasion, and congratulate you on the near termination of our long trip across the great Pacific Ocean, rendered safe by the skill of the navigators and pleasant by the efforts of the officers, one and all. I have been many times across many seas, sometimes in magnificent floating palaces, but never on one so neat and clean, and where every detail has been so carefully attended to. [Pg 2] [Pg 3] [Pg 4] [Pg 5] "'O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea, Our thoughts as boundless and our souls as free, Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam, Survey our empire and behold our home.' "Our only home indeed for a brief period of time. But who can fail to remember the pleasant acquaintances made, even if we go around the world? For 'they that go down to the sea in ships; that do business in great waters; these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep.' Even if we look upon the lofty Himalayas, the Alps, the Apennines, and the Juras, and linger about gigantic Mont Blanc and her white-robed sisters, or the beautiful Jungfrau, or sail along the classic shores of the blue Mediterranean,—wherever we go, and whatever we see, the scenes on this good ship will be photographed, as it were, on our memories as long as we live—the romps on the deck, perchance with a charming miss; or the tramp, tramp with military regularity with those of mature age; the hours of looking upon the moonlit sea, listening to the song and music of our missionary friends. God bless them and their cause! "The temporary annoyance of sea-sickness will be forgotten. And now, fellow-passengers and friends, let us resolve that, like the passion-flower of the wilderness, which always bears within its bosom the true cross, we will bear within our bosom the true cross of 'enmity towards none, charity and goodwill for all,' and thus we shall be an honor to ourselves, the dear ones at home, the country we came from, and our God. "Captain Ward, by directions of the passengers on this ship, permit me to present to you an engrossed resolution, signed by all of us, and beautifully illustrated by Señor Romero, and expressing the hope— which has been so often said before on like occasions—that your voyage through life may be as safe and pleasant as you have made ours. I bid you farewell." The captain made a suitable reply, and the company all stood up and drank his health. One more night on the ship; and the next morning we sighted land and passed along near it for forty miles. It was a rough country, evidently of volcanic formation, and not so thickly populated as I expected to see, considering that there are thirty-eight million people in Japan. At last we cast anchor in the splendid harbor of Yokohama, one of the most commodious and beautiful in the world, where a tug took us off the ship. We were detained an hour or two at the custom-house, and then each took a jinrickisha, a low, two-wheeled chaise with a man between the shafts, who trotted up to the "Grand," the most perfect of hotels. We went directly to our rooms, which had been previously engaged. CHAPTER II. YOKOHAMA. Y o k o h a m a , O c t . 1 2 , 1 8 8 9 . THE Grand Hotel, where I am located, is very large and first-class in all respects. It is two hundred feet long, fronting the matchless bay, with an extension along a canal of two hundred feet. From the room I occupy, I look down upon the canal and a fine bridge which spans it. Across this bridge goes a constant procession of men, women, and children, some horses and carriages, and occasionally a single ox drawing a cart. But every thing looks so different, and is managed so differently from what one has been accustomed to, that I am more and more impressed with the idea that I am no longer in this world, but in some wonderland beyond the stars. The view of the bay from the front of the hotel is said to be, by some, the finest in the world. The harbor is very large, and could float all the navies of all nations. At anchor, in different directions, are iron-clad war-ships, English, French, German, Italian, Russian, and Japanese,—only one showing the stars and stripes, the St. Mary, an old side-wheel boat, about as large as a Brooklyn ferry-boat, and of course about as useless. One of the naval vessels flying the British flag is an immense iron-clad of six thousand tons. With the commander, Captain May, I became acquainted. He has on board an Armstrong gun of one hundred and twenty tons, the largest I think ever made, which will throw a bolt of half a ton a dozen miles, and penetrate through a wrought-iron plate twelve inches thick. The captain expressed himself as having serious doubt of the efficiency of such monster ships and guns in actual warfare, as smaller, swifter crafts could run around them, and have great advantages in that respect. [Pg 6] [Pg 7] [Pg 8] [Pg 9] Most of the coal used in this part of the world comes from England, and is consequently very high- priced. The harbor is crowded with many large passenger steamers, and a great fleet of fishing craft. Towards evening the latter presented a beautiful appearance, coming in. I took a short walk beyond the canal and over steep hills. There are few horses or oxen to be seen. Most of the transportation is done by men. A two-wheeled cart, loaded with perhaps five hundred brick, was being pushed up a steep hill by eight men, who rested often and were much fatigued by their exertions. Last evening our party started for a moonlight excursion along the smooth and finely macadam-paved streets of the city. Under the guidance of one of our number, jinrickishas—the national cab for transporting light packages and passengers—were called, The translation of this word is pullman-car, and thus we have the extraordinary coincidence of the same name for a crude vehicle, drawn by a man, and for the splendid Pullman palace cars of America, which, with the Wagner, so far surpass in elegance and comfort all others. Away we went at a tremendous pace, each having a Chinese lantern, my carriage leading. We passed through well-lighted streets, lined with stores filled with showy goods, into the suburbs, a mile or two away, and stopped at a tea-house, where we were received with much bowing and ceremony by the women in charge, who spoke a little English. We were shown up a narrow stair-way into a small hall, and a bargain was made for a national performance by two musicians and ten dancing girls, who presently appeared, draped in beautiful Japanese costumes. These dancing girls were all very pretty, with their almond eyes and dark skins, and apparently not more than twelve or fifteen years old. They were the most jolly and laughing young women one ever saw. They shook hands with all the company, and then danced very nicely, to very poor music, in their swaying robes. At a signal, these robes were thrown aside, and the girls appeared in long loose dresses made of white and red material, much like the stripes on the American flag. The dancing, which was very graceful, continued for some time; but the show became somewhat monotonous. The ladies did not care to see any thing more, and we came away. Again we took to the road, making a very unique procession by moonlight—passing over many bridges and boulevards, and rows upon rows of brilliantly illuminated tea-houses,—and returned to the hotel. The natives do not wear European clothing as much as I expected. The upper part of their persons is covered with a loose sack, often open in front, and the jolly and laughing children of ten years and under are generally entirely nude. This morning all hands took another trip through the markets. We examined cane factories, and stores filled with silks and beautiful goods of native manufacture. Again we looked upon the street scenes and their never-ending wonders. From my bedroom window I see a large factory for the making of ice, which is sold at a penny a pound and is the greatest of comforts in this country. Butter and cigars are so strong and bad that I have left off the use of them, and do not expect to try them again until I get to Austria; but soda-water of excellent quality is to be had everywhere, and is a great comfort. We spent the evening listening to the splendid Japanese Marine Band which played lovely music for two hours in front of the hotel; all the musicians were natives. It was gayly bright at the hotel, the entire front being illuminated by paper lanterns of various colors; the big ships in the bay shown by their own numerous lamps, and the light of the full moon glittering upon the moving waters. I have seen no such beautiful show since 1887, when, at the city of Florence, I witnessed great festivities attendant upon the unveiling of a statue to an Italian patriot; the great dome of the cathedral, the bridges, and the boats on the river Arno, the palaces on the hills, and the whole beautiful city being illuminated in the most splendid manner—but this is a digression and I must write now about Japan. I have to-day wandered about the city alone, and have seen more of the well-to-do natives. These are better dressed—always the flowing dressing-gown pattern, and stilted and inconvenient slipper-like shoes. Everywhere, the babies are carried in bags, on the backs of their mothers, or more often by the older children. There are great numbers of babies to be seen all over the city, carried about in this way, and they always appear very happy, well fed, and comfortable. This morning at two o'clock I was awakened by an earthquake which rolled my bed about the room. It lasted twenty seconds or so, but I did not think it worth while to get up, and soon went off to sleep again. I am told such entertainments are frequent in this country, and one must get used to them. CHAPTER III. [Pg 10] [Pg 11] [Pg 12] [Pg 13] [Pg 14] TOKIO. To k i o , J a p a n, O c t . 1 5 , 1 8 8 9 . AFTER being entertained at Yokohama, on the morning of the 14th instant, with a slight earthquake, we left for this, the capital city of the Empire, on a finely built and equipped, narrow-gauge (3 ft. 6 in.) railroad. Every square yard of the country we traversed was cultivated in the highest degree—Distance eighteen miles, time one hour. I noticed that the locomotives, cars, and all the equipments about the railroad were of English manufacture from Manchester and Birmingham. I was informed that most of the twelve hundred miles of railroads in Japan were owned and run by the Government. The chief in charge is a native educated in England, who scouted the idea that any other country could produce any thing fit to be used on railroads. We had previously engaged rooms at one of the two hotels in the city, where foreigners are entertained, and after an excellent dinner, took jinrickishas, of which there are 80,000 in this city, and had a long run through the interminable streets. The city has a population of 1,600,000 and covers a space of thirty-six square miles, the streets being very narrow and the houses mostly of wood, one and two stories high—the stores all small. After passing through streets for some miles, we came to others, wider and lighted brilliantly by gas and electricity, through which carriages were not allowed to pass. The houses, for miles, were occupied as tea-houses, and were brilliantly illuminated, like the gin palaces of London, or the whiskey saloons of America. Great vans were passing along, on which dancing and theatrical performances were going on. There were also a good many theatres in active operation. One of the evenings that we were in the city, these streets were occupied by an immense annual flower show, one of the features of which was a big elephant constructed of chrysanthemum flowers of many colors. The effect was very gorgeous. The next day we spent going about the great city and seeing its wonders, chief of which is the Mikado's palace and grounds. I called on the American Minister and asked him to get me a permit to go into the palace, but he said it was impossible, no foreigners being allowed in the palace or the grounds. The palace and gardens looked like immense fortifications, being surrounded by three moats, each a hundred feet wide, and filled with water, and by three stone walls, each thirty or forty feet high. The palace is in the heart of the city, and I should say the grounds were two hundred acres in extent, all, including the neighboring streets, being lighted by the New York Edison Company. I saw the superintendent who had charge of the construction of the plant, who said it took them a year to do it. The women to be seen in the streets and tea-houses are invariably small and very pretty, except some of the married ones, who have their teeth colored black in accordance with an ancient custom, which makes them look hideous. It is very cool in this part of Japan at this season. There is not sufficient frost to affect the crops, but one gets cold riding about—and there is no efficient method of heating the houses. There is no coal used for domestic purposes, and wood is very scarce and high. If you ask for a fire, at most hotels, they bring you a copper pan containing ignited charcoal covered with ashes, which does about as much good as a kerosene lamp. I suffer greatly with the cold, and would be glad to pay a large price for a pair of Arctic overshoes. The price of newspapers, printed in the English language, at Yokohama is twenty-five cents a copy, or thirty dollars per annum. They have very little news, and almost none from America. We went through the museum, and saw many extraordinary curiosities of ancient and modern Japan. Among them was a stuffed rooster in a glass case, whose tail feathers were ten feet long. I thought there was some humbug about it, but I afterwards saw a live one with tail feathers twelve feet long. The public buildings are modern, large, and handsome, and the people very polite and good-natured. The streets are narrow. Great crowds are everywhere. It seems to me that I must have seen a hundred thousand people to-day. Every thing about the city is strange, often disagreeable and offensive. A couple of days in it is quite sufficient, and I shall be very glad to go away to-morrow. [Pg 15] [Pg 16] [Pg 17] [Pg 18] CHAPTER IV. NIKKO. N i k k o , J a p a n, O c t . 2 0 , 1 8 8 9 . WE left Tokio on the 17th, at 6.46 A.M., for a station called Utsumorama, ninety-three miles. Arrived at noon, and, after an excellent lunch, started in jinrickishas for this place, and a most extraordinary and unique trip it proved to be. The road was built hundreds of years ago by a Shinto king, and is an admirable example of engineering; well drained, and with an excellent foundation of small stones, which needed only a top-dressing and a steam roller to make it as good as any in Europe. It is lined on both sides with immense pine and cedar trees. Many of these trees are twelve feet in diameter; and often the roots are grown together, so that four or five trees look like one. They are sixty to eighty feet high, and afford an excellent shade. The distance from the railway station to this place is twenty-five miles, and we made it in four hours with two men harnessed to the jinrickishas tandem. We made only one stop of half an hour for lunch, which we brought with us, and ate at one of the numerous tea-houses. We arrived at 4 P.M., delighted at the wonderful sights, but much fatigued and very cold. Rooms had been engaged for us in an excellent hotel, excellent in all respects except that there was no way of heating, unless with pans of charcoal. I suffered greatly from the cold, though I had warm clothing, including a heavy overcoat which had done me good service the previous winter at Montreal when the thermometer stood at thirty degrees below zero. Near the hotel are a dozen, or more, costly and grotesque edifices, much adorned with carved wood statues of horrible-looking beasts and devils, covered with bronze and gold. There are temples of Buddha, and gorgeous mausoleums of kings who died five hundred years ago, situated in a park of big trees; but looking at them, though interesting, was not agreeable, and I was quite satisfied with one visit. To-day we made an excursion to a lake among the mountains, five thousand feet high. I was furnished with a mountain horse which proved an ugly brute; kicked and stumbled, and put the bit between his teeth, so that I could not control him, and he nearly trotted the life out of me. We went up and along the winding paths, passing numerous water-falls, one of which was 750 feet high, and at last reached the lake, which is of great beauty. The mountains rise directly from the water's edge. They are covered to their very tops with green trees, the leaves of which have a singular feathery appearance. The tea-houses where we stopped for lunch were models of cleanliness and comfort. We brought our own provisions as usual, but had in addition a boiled fish just taken from the lake. We stopped in and around the tea-houses for some hours; and then I mounted my ugly brute of a horse and rode back to the hotel, a much used-up man. I was glad to get a bath and to retire early. We returned to the railway station by the road we came, and again made the distance in four hours, with only one stop of fifteen minutes. CHAPTER V. MIYNOSKITA. M i y n o s k i t a , J a p a n, O c t . 2 4 , 1 8 8 9 . YESTERDAY at 10 A.M. we left Yokohama, arrived at the railroad station at twelve, and reached this favorite watering-place, among the mountains, in four hours by jinrickishas. Our rooms had been engaged in an excellent hotel, called Fujiya, and soon after our arrival a fine dinner was served of soup, fish, roast beef, sago pudding, and other delicacies, to which we did ample justice. The waitresses were all pretty native girls, dressed in their native costumes; there were a dozen, or more, of them about the hotel. These waitresses were pleasant, jolly, and very polite, but very small in stature; some of them walked under my outstretched arm, and all of them might have done so. I have a fine front room, and look out upon the surrounding mountains, which are very lofty and covered with green trees. This is an ideal mountain resort—great mountains, a roaring river winding some hundreds of feet below the road, and numerous water-falls; the water rushing down into the river. From one point of view I counted seven water-falls, and found, on trial, that one of them came from a [Pg 19] [Pg 20] [Pg 21] [Pg 22] [Pg 23] hot spring far up among the mountains, and the water was quite warm when it reached the road. I walked along the road for several miles and found it wonderfully romantic everywhere. The road itself is a fine specimen of engineering, very expensive to build, and almost as good as the famous one built by Napoleon III., from Geneva to Chamouni. We are here rather too late in the season to thoroughly enjoy the place and surroundings, it being cold and the methods of heating houses imperfect, but in summer it must be perfectly lovely. There is another hotel being erected near the one we are in, and I was much interested watching their method of work. They required a lot of earth for filling in, and were transporting it in baskets from the mountains above. Two men would fill a basket, suspend it across their shoulders by a bamboo pole, dump it where wanted, and return for more. I longed to present them with a wheelbarrow, and show them how to move earth ten times faster than they were doing. It would appear that there are no saw- mills in this country, for the men were sawing out boards and timber by hand, to use in the construction of this hotel. A stick of timber a foot or two in diameter was arranged with one end resting on the ground, and the other placed on a wooden horse four or five feet high; a man then mounted the stick and laboriously sawed out boards with a hand-saw. The workmen had no clothing on except a breech cloth, and were all doing constant and faithful service for, as we were informed, ten hours a day; the pay being ten cents per day. For similar service in our country, as every one knows, mechanics are paid from $2.50 to $3.50 per day. We left the hotel at nine this morning, and took a trip among the mountains to Lake Hakone. I selected my horse this time, and he proved an excellent animal, a small shaggy fellow, kind and easy trotting, but much given to stumbling and letting both heels fly if another horse came near, which little amusement of his nearly unseated me several times. We went up six thousand feet over the worst of mountain roads, but my animal walked carefully, often along narrow paths, where a fall would have tumbled us down hundreds of feet below. I enjoyed the ride very much. It took six horses and seven chairs to accommodate our party, each horse having a man to attend to him, and each chair carried by four men, making a large procession. We arrived in two or three hours at an hotel on the lake, and after an excellent lunch took boats and crossed over to near the foot of Fusiyama, the horses and men going around to meet us. Fusiyama is the brag mountain of Japan, the only one of much size in the Empire, and is universally known and photographed in all possible ways. It is fourteen thousand feet high, and is, as I write, covered with snow, and presents a beautiful appearance from the lake. We landed and walked over the mountains to the place where the horses had been sent. The sun was terribly hot in some places, and in others the only path was along the bed of dry brooks. We passed over the crater of an active volcano, steam and smoke rushing out near the path. The guide said it was dangerous to wander from the path, and pointed out where two native guides had fallen through and had not been seen since. There was no wandering after this fact was stated. After two or three hours of dreadful fatigue, we found our horses, and I was very glad to mount my shaggy old fellow, who carried me safely over slippery rocks, along narrow paths, and a road (where there was any) as bad as a road could be, arriving at the hotel at six, much fatigued, but in good form and ready for the excellent dinner which was waiting our arrival. After thoroughly enjoying this delightful spot for two days, we started down the mountain road in the morning and came along in jinrickishas at a tremendous pace, making the distance—fourteen and one half miles—to the railroad in two hours. We reached Yokohama at 7 P.M., in season for a fine dinner. CHAPTER VI. KOBÉ. K o b é , J a p a n, N o v . 7 , 1 8 8 9 . O N the 2d inst. we left Yokohama by the Japanese steamer Omi Mars, Captain Island Vrise. During the afternoon we passed an island on which is a volcano in eruption. It is 2,550 feet high, and was a pretty sight as seen from the steamer. We arrived at this fine city at 5 P.M., and were soon in comfortable quarters at an excellent hotel, and, as it was very cold, I had a grate fire in my room, which I enjoyed very much. The city is beautifully situated near the shore with great mountains for a background, and the harbor is very fine. As usual, big steamers and crafts of all kinds were to be seen, representing England, France, Italy, Russia, and other countries—but Stars and Stripes there were none. We left on the 4th by rail for Kioto, arriving there at 5 P.M., at a really splendid hotel, as fine as any in [Pg 24] [Pg 25] [Pg 26] [Pg 27] [Pg 28] Europe. The city is a very old one, and one of the largest and most interesting in Japan; great numbers of temples and palaces, and, in and around it, most lovely scenery. Some of the temples were erected seven hundred years ago. In the evening I went with a party and called on the American missionaries, who were holding a monthly meeting at one of their houses. They have a large college building, and all seem greatly interested in their work. The next morning we started early to make the famous Oigawa Rapids excursion. The entire party, except two ladies, went in jinrickishas, over bad roads and through immense fields of rice, vegetables, and tea-plants, up and along a rough mountain road. Once my cooly's carelessness tipped me over, but, as good luck would have it, toward the cliff and not into the rushing river, and no harm was done. We had to leave the vehicles several times, the road having been badly washed out a month ago by a big typhoon, which caused floods and great disasters all over the island. Some thousands of lives were lost, and there was great destruction of property. We stopped once to rest, and then went through fields for a mile or two to the river Hodza, where we took three flat-bottomed boats, manned by three boatmen each, and passed down over numerous rapids, and through what in California would be called a cañon—mountains from two thousand to three thousand feet high, clothed with verdure to their tops. The river is from two hundred to three hundred feet wide and full of rocks, and was really, it appeared to me, very dangerous; but the boatmen were skilful, and we did the distance, seven miles, in one and one half hours. We had lunch at a tea-house, and returned by another route to the city, passing through other fields and seeing an immense number of children everywhere. We arrived at the hotel at 5 P.M., the excursion being pronounced by all to have been the most interesting we had enjoyed in Japan. On the 6th inst. we left the city at 9 A.M. in jinrickishas, and passed along a splendid wide national road for seven miles, to Lake Viwa. We met great crowds of people on foot coming to the city, and numerous trucks loaded with stone, timber, rice, and vegetables. Occasionally a single bullock would be drawing the vehicles, but generally this was done by two or four men. We met two processions of ten trucks, each loaded with stone. The trucks were drawn by prisoners, with a soldier to guard each truck. The prisoners were comfortable-looking, and appeared as jolly as any of the travellers. They were building a canal from the lake to Kioto, nine miles long, four miles of which they said was a tunnel. I examined a part of it, and found it to be of excellent construction. We arrived at the lake at noon. After lunch we went aboard a small steamer, and proceeded to a point where there was a famous temple, and landed. But looking at temples in this country has become monotonous, and I spent my time sitting under a wonderful pine tree, which is feet eight in diameter, with limbs trained out for fifty feet horizontally each way. We steamed around the lake for an hour or two, and returned by the same road we went, reaching the hotel at six. I found a good fire in a stove in my room, which was very acceptable. CHAPTER VII. OSAKA. O s a k a , N o v . 8 , 1 8 8 9 . WE left Kioto at 10 A.M. this morning by rail, and arrived in this remarkable city at 11.15. It is a most interesting place, having a large number of canals and bridges, in which respect it resembles Venice more than any other city. It is the second city in size and importance in the Empire, having about a million and a half of inhabitants, and numerous industries, such as cotton factories, etc.; also the imperial mint, which we visited. The machinery of this mint was all made in France—with one or two exceptions, of English make—and is very fine. This is the most exclusively native city we have visited, there being only seven resident foreigners, and only one American, from Charlestown, Mass., who is here for two years to superintend the erection of a brush factory. There are numerous large boats constantly passing through the canals, heavily loaded with cotton and all kinds of goods, showing an extensive commerce. Toward evening I took a walk across a long bridge, and rested myself on a seat in a small park overlooking the river; but the people stopped their work to look at me to such an extent as to make it disagreeable, and I returned to the hotel. The next morning we returned to our old quarters in the hotel at Kobé. [Pg 29] [Pg 30] [Pg 31] [Pg 32] CHAPTER VIII. HONG-KONG. H o n g - K o n g , N o v . 1 8 , 1 8 8 9 . LEAVING Kobé on the evening of the 8th, by the Peninsular and Oriental steamer Ancona, we arrived here at seven this evening. This line of steamers has the contract for transporting the English mails all over the Eastern waters, including Australia, Japan, and China, and has in commission fifty-four vessels, some of them of 6,000 tons, representing 7,000 horse-power. On the 14th and 15th we were steaming through the famous inland sea, the beauty of which could hardly be exaggerated by a writer of a poetical turn of mind, —passing between Nipon, a large island, on one side, and many hundred smaller ones on the other. The channel would often be near the shores, where we could see the villages and cultivated land. The islands being volcanic, were in all sorts of fantastic shapes; one called the Asses'- ears was very funny-looking. The water is very clear and blue, the islands largely cultivated and clothed with green to the summits of their mountains. On the morning of the 15th, the steamer dropped her anchor at Nagasaki, and we all went ashore sight-seeing and shopping. We rode about through long streets, and called at several factories and stores; among others, at a place where was made a variety of shell-work, which was very pretty. I made some purchases. The owner of the place spoke English, and I recommended him to send an exhibition of his goods to the fair which was expected to be opened in New York in 1892, and he astonished me by asking what country New York was in? But life being too short for me to teach him the rudiments of geography, I paid for my purchase, and came away. We went to see more temples. In the grounds near one of them were two small trees and on a stone near it was engraved, "Planted by Mr. and Mrs. Gen. Grant, 1879." We had an excellent lunch at the Hotel Bellevue, took another trip around the city, and came back to the ship at 6 P.M. The harbor is one of great beauty, nearly landlocked, and surrounded by hills covered with verdure. It was crowded with ships, three Russian men-of-war, one American, and several English. Nothing could have been more lovely than the trip from Nagasaki to this port—the sea as smooth as a pond, weather warm, and every thing quite agreeable and comfortable. We came up the bay last evening between four and six. It was a splendid show. One of the finest harbors in the world, eleven miles long and from two to five wide. The islands and mountains covered with verdure. The island of Hong-Kong was taken possession of by the British after the war with China in 1842, and now has a population of one hundred and forty thousand. We left the steamer after dark in a tug, and had a fine view of the city of Victoria; the streets and buildings covering the hills for a long distance, and the vessels in the harbor being brilliantly lighted, presented a splendid appearance as we approached. We soon took possession of rooms previously engaged at the Hong-Kong Hotel, and found it to be in all respects first-class, including an Otis elevator furnished by their London house. The waiters are all Chinese, tall and good-looking, and dressed in long blue night-gowns or frocks. This city surpasses Gibraltar in the number of nationalities one sees in the streets; every nation on earth appearing to be represented, and I am much interested in looking at them as they pass. The policemen are a sight—tall, black fellows from the Malay Peninsula. Their uniform is the same as worn by those in New York, except a large red turban, which gives them a very imposing appearance. Passing for a mile or so alongside the water front between 5 and 6 P.M. I found that hundreds of boats had returned from fishing, or other business, and were tied to the piers, bows on, giving me a chance to see this phase of Chinese life, which had always interested me when reading about it. They were all having their suppers,—a family of ten, sitting in a circle with a big bowl of food, apparently rice, in the centre. Each person had a small bowl, which was often replenished, and the food eaten with chopsticks. The boat was their home, their sole residence. In one case a small boy was eating and his mother was boxing his ears very roughly. Except the children, no one paid any attention to me; this being an English city the people are accustomed to foreigners. [Pg 33] [Pg 34] [Pg 35] [Pg 36] [Pg 37] One morning we called jinrickishas and went on a ten minutes' trip to the foot of the mountains, which are back of the city, and there entered a cable tramway car, which took us up a very steep incline, a mile or so, to a station, and then we took sedan chairs and continued our trip to the top of Mount Victoria, 1,825 feet high. From there we looked down upon the bay, the city, many islands, and the mainland of China on the opposite shores—a scene of unsurpassed magnificence. The big steamers in the beautiful bay looked like canoes on the calm waters of an inland lake. The island is a series of mountains, over, around, and through which are built splendid roads, near which are many beautiful residences, where the governor and wealthy people reside. We looked about for a couple of hours and then took the tramway down. Some of the more timid of the party preferred to come all the way down in the sedans, and said they had a delightful trip. The sedan I was in was carried by two men, who were very picturesque, their bronze bodies shining in the sun. Their bare feet pressed the ground with a sure tread. Sometimes I have seen a sedan carried by four men with white trousers and red sacks, their heads covered by large bamboo hats, and altogether presenting a very attractive appearance. The thermometer on the top of Mount Victoria registered only sixty-five degrees, but I never felt such heat in July at home. However, when in Japan I suffered so much from cold weather that I am quite glad to have some of the other kind now. CHAPTER IX. CANTON. C a n t o n , C h i n a, N o v . 2 1 , 1 8 8 9 . FROM Hong-Kong we sailed on the 21st inst. at 8 A.M., for this city, by the fine English steamer Hankow, Captain Lloyd, and arrived at 2.30 P.M. There being but one hotel here, the Oriental, and that a very poor one at that, we made use of the English passenger boats as hotels during our stay, and found them excellent in all ways; large, clean rooms and table very fine, including all kinds of wines and beer furnished gratis, and wood-cock, and snipe every day. Leaving the beautiful harbor of Hong-Kong, with its immense fortifications, we passed into the Canton River, a mile or two wide for many miles from its mouth, and having high mountains on each side, covered with green trees and grass. There were great fortifications all along, armed with big Krupp guns. We saw large numbers of the national boats, called sampans, and many village, houses, and tents. As we approached Canton the river narrowed to about a thousand feet, and I was able to closely observe the country. Banana trees lined the shores for many miles, sugar-cane and rice fields stretched as far as I could see. Scattered all along the country and in the city big brick buildings one hundred feet square and six stories high were very prominent. These were pawnbrokers' establishments. As we approached the city, the largest building seen was a Catholic cathedral, with two great towers; a splendid edifice, but not yet finished. We had an excellent lunch on the steamer, and then went in sedan chairs to call on Mr. Charles Seymour, the United States Consul, and his wife. After being kindly entertained in their beautiful residence, we returned to the boat, and spent the remainder of the day and evening watching the wonderful life on the river. There was a ferry-house near, and I learned that the cost of ferrying across the river was one fifth of a cent, and that a howling swell could have a boat alone for one and a half cents. After a good dinner at seven, and a good night's sleep, we all took sedan chairs, three men to each chair, the conductor ahead with the native guide, Ah Cum, a fine-looking Chinese gentleman with finger nails two inches long, and the entire day was spent in sight-seeing. [Pg 38] [Pg 39] [Pg 40] [Pg 41] All the streets of the city are from four to ten feet wide, no sidewalks, and are paved with granite blocks a foot wide and six feet long. The houses all have shops in front. We did not see one private house in the city outside of the foreign settlements. The buildings are mostly two stories high, built of brick, and the stores have no glass or other fronts; all open to the street. The streets are crowded with an immense mass of men, women, and children, nearly all with no clothing above their hips, and as our men pushed their way along, yelling and screaming, the people would stop, crowd around us with wonder, but were never impolite. We passed along many miles of streets, lined with stores of all kinds, the butchers' shops displaying dead rats hanging up, and once I saw the carcass of a large dog with the hair scalded off lying on the butcher's table ready to be cut up for customers. It has rained here for two days, and the streets are very dirty and bad-smelling. There is no system of sewerage, no horses or draft animals. Every thing, including all kinds of sewerage and slops and building materials, is carried along by men, women, and children. Frequently there were such masses of people going and coming that traffic would be clogged, and we had much difficulty in getting through. To write of all the extraordinary things I have seen to-day would require a big book, and I can therefore only mention that we went to a flour mill and saw them grinding wheat by stones forced around by blind oxen, just as they used to do in Bible times in Palestine. We went into a jail and saw poor wretches in irons with wooden collars around their necks; and on the street two of them were in the stocks, their hands and feet confined. The court-house was near, and some of our party attended a trial which had been progressing for some days. The wife of the judge saw there were ladies in the party, and invited them into an interior room and entertained them with tea. The prisoner was accused of forging the deed of a house and land belonging to one of his wives, and selling her furniture, all valued at two thousand dollars. Several witnesses proved that all this was so, and the wife appeared with her marriage certificate. At the moment when our party arrived, the prisoner was on the stand. He denied that he was married to the woman or had ever sold any of her property. The judge was very angry, and said to the prisoner that he was the greatest liar in China, and ordered that he should be punished with 150 blows with a bamboo stick, then and there. He was thrown down, and held by several men, while another struck the blows with great severity on his bare back, causing the poor wretch to yell with agony, so that he could be heard far out on the street, as well as in the interior room, where the ladies were drinking tea. After fifty blows had been given, the man was asked to confess, but he refused and was given fifty more; and the native guide said that he would no doubt have his head cut off in a few days. We saw on our route a beautiful club-house, and a clock two hundred years old, made to go by water. Lunch was served in a splendid seven-story pagoda on a hill outside of the city wall, from the top of which we looked down upon one section of the city and an immense cemetery. A part of this was devoted to rich men's tombs, all above ground, the peculiarities of which were that the coffins were all in sight. After lunch we were again rushed through the crowded streets, stopping at many shops, some of the party purchasing largely of silks, satins, crockery, and curios; and at six we returned to the boat, a very much instructed but fatigued party. In the evening I was greatly interested in watching what was going on in the family boats, called sampans, which were anchored between our boat and the shore. I counted from the steamer 164 of them, with their sterns towards us. Each boat had a kerosene-oil stove, and in a frying-pan they were preparing their suppers, which consisted apparently of rice. I noticed that when the woman who was stirring the food wished to moisten it, she dipped water from the river, in which was floating all the filth of the great city. Each member of the family had a bowl which he dipped into the food, and proceeded to eat with chopsticks. There are many thousand of such boats on the river, the only homes of their occupants. We spent another day in Canton, going about in sedan chairs, steamers, and sampans, and saw many places and objects of interest; but two days have been quite enough for this city, and I was glad to get aboard the fine steamer Honam, Captain Febor, which left at 5.30 P.M., and arrived at Hong-Kong at 1 A.M., we all going directly to the rooms retained for us at the hotel. Here I had the pleasure of meeting a lady from New York, Mrs. R. H. L. Townsend, who is making a tour around the world, accompanied by another lady, and has accomplished the trip thus far without trouble, being everywhere received with distinguished consideration. CHAPTER X. HONG-KONG. H o n g - K o n g , D e c . 3 , 1 8 8 9 . [Pg 42] [Pg 43] [Pg 44] [Pg 45] [Pg 46] WE have been detained here ten days, awaiting the arrival of a P. and O. steamer, for which we were booked, but have passed the time in a very delightful manner. I went nearly every day to the park and public gardens, of about twenty acres, situated several hundred feet above the main street, laid out in the best manner, and containing a great variety of trees and flowers, such as grow only in tropical climates. On one occasion a friend and myself were sitting on a bench near a handsomely dressed Chinese gentleman. My friend said: "See what a handsome girl is coming, and how beautifully she is dressed, but how deplorable that she has such little feet." I agreed with him, and said it was a pity such a pretty creature was obliged to submit to a barbarous custom like that. The Chinese gentleman spoke to us in excellent English, and said: "Do you think so? That is my daughter, and while I agree with you, we feel obliged to make her feet small or no Chinese gentleman would marry her." We made apologies which were kindly accepted, and in a long conversation with the gentleman we learned much of China, he being a resident of Canton, who had been educated in the United States. I cannot agree with my Chinese friend that it will be so long a time before China will be opened to European civilization, for her 332,000,000 people are beginning to feel the pressure of surrounding nations; Russia on the north, and England, Germany, France, and Italy on her sea-coasts, and above all the example of the wonderful advances made by Japan are having strong influences upon China. China has now for a Prime-Minister, Li Hung Chang, a very great man, the equal of Bismarck or Gladstone, and the young Emperor has very advance...