01_682942_ffirs.qxd 12/16/05 1:28 PM Page i American Regional Cuisine SECOND EDITION T H E A R T I N S T I T U T E S Michael F. Nenes, CEC, CCE Photography by Joe Robbins J O H N W I L E Y & S O N S , I N C . 01_682942_ffirs.qxd 12/16/05 1:28 PM Page i 01_682942_ffirs.qxd 12/16/05 1:28 PM Page i American Regional Cuisine SECOND EDITION T H E A R T I N S T I T U T E S Michael F. Nenes, CEC, CCE Photography by Joe Robbins J O H N W I L E Y & S O N S , I N C . 01_682942_ffirs.qxd 12/16/05 1:28 PM Page ii Copyright © 2007 by Education Management Corporation.All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons,Inc.,Hoboken,New Jersey. 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For general information on our other products and services or for technical support,please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974,outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats.Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books.For more information about Wiley products,visit our web site at www.wiley.com. LIBRARYOFCONGRESSCATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATIONDATA: Nenes,Michael F. American regional cuisine / the Art Institutes ;Michael F.Nenes ;photography by Joe Robbins.-- 2nd ed. p.cm. Rev.ed.of:American regional cuisine.2002. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13 978-0-471-68294-3 (cloth) ISBN-10 0-471-68294-2 (cloth) 1. Cookery,American. I.Art Institutes.II.American regional cuisine.III.Title. TX715.A50847 2007 641.5'973--dc22 2005019107 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Book design by Richard Oriolo 02_682942_ftoc.qxd 12/16/05 11:36 AM Page iii Contents Foreword by Martin Yan v Acknowledgments vii Introduction ix The Cuisine of New England 1 The Cuisine of the Mid-Atlantic States 43 The Cuisine of the South 91 Floribbean Cuisine 137 Cajun and Creole Cuisine 181 The Cuisine of the Central Plains 231 Texas and Tex-Mex Cuisine 283 The Cuisines of the Southwest and the Rocky Mountain Region 335 The Cuisine of California 385 The Cuisine of the Pacific Northwest 433 The Cuisine of Hawaii 475 Basic Recipes 531 Basic Culinary Vocabulary 547 References 555 Index 557 03_682942_flast.qxd 12/16/05 11:36 AM Page iv 03_682942_flast.qxd 12/16/05 11:36 AM Page v Foreword I by Martin Yan n my travels,I’ve crisscrossed the world,experiencing different cultures and tasting their dish- es. And I must say that the United States is one of the most diverse nations with respect to culture,people,history,and food.Some say the American national cuisine is a melting pot of ethnic cuisines;others describe it as a mixed salad with distinct ingredients.Regardless of which analogy you prefer,each American regional cuisine is a special treat,combining its unique local history and culture with distinct regional ingredients.It’s not by chance that certain parts of the country maintain a particular taste or flavor in their dishes.Regional cuisines reflect the characteristics of the locale. From one U.S.coast to the other,from ocean to mountain,valley to plain,I’ve noticed that each region’s dishes tell a story and are like mirrors. A recipe evolves along with the commu- nity and,with each adaptation,the dish absorbs and reflects much of the environment.For example,the cuisine of New England is an adaptation of English cuisine,with local ingredients such as turkey,lobster,and clams giving the region its well-known Boston brown bread,clam chowder,and Maine boiled lobster.In the Great Plains,where wheat is the staff of life,you’ll find wheat and honey buns,colaches,and wheat beer. You can actually taste the wet weather typi- cal of the Pacific Northwest in its apples and berries.In the Southwest,you’ll find food flavored 03_682942_flast.qxd 12/16/05 11:36 AM Page vi vi FOREWORD by fiery spices because of their abundance in the region.Head over to my home state of California and you’ll taste the freshness of the seasons and the experimental spirit of the people, whose recipes use a wide range of readily available ingredients—asparagus, let- tuce,artichoke,bok choy,lemongrass,tomato,and more. I’ve had the pleasure of gaining an illuminating perspective on each region I’ve visit- ed just from taking a bite of its food.The Cajun and Creole region, home of my good friend Paul Prudhomme, is a marvelous blend of French, Spanish, Italian, German, Native American, African, and West Indian traditions. For a taste of the Asian blends, such as Chinese,Japanese,Filipino,Korean,Indian,and Thai,it’s back to California and the Pacific Northwest.It’s an enjoyable journey for the mind and taste buds when trav- eling the United States. Travel among these pages—enjoy! What follows is insight into and details of what makes each American culinary region unique.Each chapter contains not only recipes but also historical and cultural information,as well as a guide to ingredients specific to that region.And to top it off, once you prepare these dishes and take a bite, the flavors and tastes will reinforce everything you read. It’s a history, anthropology, and cooking class all in one! MARTIN YAN is a master chef and corporate chef of Chef Martin Yan’s CreAsian. He has written more than 24 cookbooks and is the host of Yan Can Cook on PBS.Chef Yan is the founder of the Yan Can International Cooking School,located in the San Francisco Bay area. 03_682942_flast.qxd 12/16/05 11:36 AM Page vii Acknowledgments T he Art Institutes wish to thank the following contributors for their effort on behalf of American Regional Cuisine: Author Michael F.Nenes,CEC,CCE.The second edition of American Regional Cuisine is the result of intensive cooperative effort by many people.Thanks to Lois Nenes, M.Ed.,who taught at the Art Institute of Houston for eight years.Lois is a relentless and incredibly creative researcher,who had to become part explorer,part student and teacher. She rewrote the manuscript, attempting to include only information that could be supported by at least two documented sources.Lois was a supportive col- league and we both had fun on the American Regional Cuisine adventure. Photographer Joe Robbins of Joe Robbins Photography,Houston,Texas.Joe taught at The Art Institute of Houston for over 15 years,helping to shape the careers of stu- dents in the visual arts.This project gave Mr.Robbins the opportunity to influence students in the field of culinary arts. Joe’s collaboration and outstanding photogra- phy contribute to the effectiveness of this book. Certified Master Chef Klaus Friedenreich, the Culinary Program Chair of The Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale, contributed his tremendous talent for food styling for the photographs.Chef Friedenreich supervised the preparation and purposely plated the food in a style that students could duplicate. We also wish to thank Helene Hatfield for her assistance and contributions to the organization and her preparation of the food during the photography sessions. 03_682942_flast.qxd 12/16/05 11:36 AM Page viii viii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Chef Peter Lehr, CEC, CCE, and his spring 2004 and summer 2004 American Regional Cuisine students merit special thanks for their outstanding work in testing the recipes.Chef Lehr handled the detailed and demanding work of calculating the weights and writing the measurements for each recipe. In addition, we are grateful for the contributions of The Art Institutes’ Culinary Programs across the country.Culinary Arts is offered at the following Art Institute loca- tions: The Art Institute of Atlanta The Art Institute of California—Los Angeles The Art Institute of California—Orange County The Art Institute of California—San Diego The Art Institute of Charlotte The Art Institute of Colorado The Art Institute of Dallas The Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale The Art Institute of Houston The Art Institute of Las Vegas The Art Institute of New York City The Art Institute of Philadelphia The Art Institute of Phoenix The Art Institute of Pittsburgh The Art Institute of Seattle The Art Institute of Tampa The Art Institute of Vancouver—Dubrulle International Culinary Arts The Art Institute of Washington The Art Institutes International Minnesota The Illinois Institute of Art—Chicago