The Project Gutenberg EBook of Across America, by James F. Rusling This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Across America The Great West and the Pacific Coast Author: James F. Rusling Release Date: May 13, 2013 [EBook #42706] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS AMERICA *** Produced by Douglas L. Alley, III, Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) YOSEMITE FALLS. ACROSS AMERICA: OR THE GREAT WEST AND THE PACIFIC COAST. BY JAMES F. RUSLING, Late Brevet Brigadier-General, U. S. V. [Pg i] NEW YORK: Sheldon & Company. 1874. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by JAMES F. RUSLING, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PREFACE. In the summer of 1866, having lately concluded a tour of inspection through the West and South, and awaiting orders in Washington, it was my fortune one morning to receive the following: "Quartermaster-General's Office, } "Washington, D. C., July 10, 1866. } "General:—You will immediately enter upon a tour of inspection of the affairs of the Quartermaster's Department, as administered at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, and thence west via Denver City and Salt Lake City to the Pacific Coast, inspecting all intermediate Posts while en route. At Denver City you will confer with Brevet Col. Howard, A. Q. M., as to the practicability of breaking up that depot, and removing the stores to other points where needed. Thence to Salt Lake City, where a rigid inspection is needed. Thence to San Francisco, Cal. "Upon reaching the Pacific Coast, you will confer with the Commanding General and Chief Quartermaster of the Military Division of the Pacific, and having procured necessary information relative to the locality, importance, etc. of the various Posts, you will proceed upon a careful inspection throughout California, Oregon, Nevada, and Washington and Arizona Territories. Upon completing this duty, you will return to this city, via the Isthmus, and report in person to the Quartermaster-General. "It will be necessary to keep this Office fully informed, in advance, as to your probable whereabouts, so that instructions may be telegraphed to you at the stations where you are on duty when necessary. "You are authorized to take a clerk with you. "Very respectfully, "Your ob't serv't., "M. C. MEIGS, "Quartermaster-General, } "Brevet Maj.-Gen., U. S. A." } "Brevet Brig.-Gen. James F. Rusling, } "Inspector Q. M. Dep't." } These, my orders, were subsequently endorsed as follows: "Headquarters of the Army, } "Washington, D. C., July 18, 1866. } "Commanding officers will, on the requisition of Gen. Rusling, furnish the necessary escorts to enable him to make the within directed inspections. "By command of Lieut.-Gen. Grant, "GEO. K. LEET, "Ass't. Adj't.-Gen." [Pg ii] [Pg iii] [Pg iv] The general object of this tour, perhaps I should explain, in a word, was to examine into the condition of our various depots and posts West, and consider their bases and routes of supply, with a view to reducing if possible the enormous expenditures, that then everywhere prevailed there. How well or ill this was accomplished, it is not for me to say, nor is this volume the place—my Reports at the time speaking for themselves.[1] The route thus roughly indicated was long, and in parts reputed dangerous; but for years I had cherished a desire to see something of that vast region in the sunset, and here at length was the golden opportunity. I need scarcely say, therefore, that I obeyed my orders with alacrity, and in the execution of them was absent in all about a twelvemonth. During that period, crossing the continent to San Francisco, among the Mountains, along the Pacific Coast, and thence home by the Isthmus, I travelled in all over 15,000 miles, as per accompanying Map; of which about 2,000 were by railroad, 2,000 by stage-coach, 3,000 by ambulance or on horseback, and the remainder by steamer. This book, now, is the rough record of it all, written at odd hours since, as occasion offered. Much of this journey, of course, was over the old travelled routes, so well described already by Bowles, Richardson, Nordhoff, and others. But several hundred miles of it, along and among the Rocky Mountains, a thousand or so through Utah and Idaho, and perhaps two thousand or more through Southern California and Arizona, were through regions that most overland travellers never see; and here, at least, I trust something was gleaned of interest and profit to the general reader. Moreover, my official orders gave me access to points not always to be reached, and to sources of information not usually open; so that it was my duty, as well as pleasure, to see and hear as much of the Great West and the Pacific Coast everywhere, as seemed practicable in such a period. Of course, I kept a rough diary and journal (apart from my official Reports), and retiring from the army in 1867, perhaps these should have been written out for publication long ago, if at all. But it proved no easy task to settle down again into the harness of civil life, after being six years in the army, as all "old soldiers" at least well know. I plead only this excuse for my delay—the absorption of a busy life and health not firm; and trust these notes on Western life and scenery, if lacking somewhat in immediate freshness, will yet be considered not altogether stale. The completion of the Pacific Rail road, it will be noted, made this long tour of mine, by stage-coach and ambulance, through the Great West and along the Pacific Coast, about the last, if not the last, of its kind possible; and, therefore, under all the circumstances, it has seemed not unfitting, even at this late date, to give these pages to the world. Writing only for the general public, it will be noticed, I have tried everywhere to avoid all military and official details, as far as practicable, and to confine myself mainly to what would seem of interest, if not value, to everybody. So, too, I have aimed to bridge the interval from 1866-7 to 1874 by such additional facts as appeared necessary; but without, however, modifying my own observations and experiences materially. If some persons, and some localities, are spoken of more flatteringly (or less) than usual, it is at least with truthfulness and candor, as things seemed to me. No doubt errors of fact have been committed, but these were not intended; and some of these, of course, were simply unavoidable in a book like this. So, too, as to style, no pretension whatever is made; but I claim merely an honest endeavor to convey some useful, if not interesting information currente calamo, in the readiest way possible, and a generous public will forgive much accordingly. In brief, if what is here roughly said will lead any American to a better love of his country, or to a truer pride in it, or any foreigner to a kindlier appreciation of the Republic, verily I have my reward. J. F. R. Trenton, N. J., March, 15, 1874. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. New York to Fort Riley, Kansas. Across America.—Off July 24, 1866.—West by Erie Railroad.—The Great West.— Northern New Jersey.—Western New York.—Ohio.—Miami Valley.—Indiana and Illinois.—Buckeye vs. Hoosier and Sucker.—Cincinnati and St. Louis vs. Chicago. —St. Louis redivivus.—Missouri.—Her Germans and Vineyards.—The Missouri River.—Leavenworth.—Lawrence and Topeka.—Valley of the Kansas.—Junction City.—Kansas Generally.—Her fine Building-stone.—Her Scenery.—Her Enterprise and Thrift.—"Fall Leaf" and the Delawares.—A Big Chief and his Exploits.—The Pottawatomies.—Returning from a Buffalo Hunt.—The Indian in Kansas. 21-32 [Pg v] [Pg vi] [Pg vii] [Pg viii] [Pg ix] CHAPTER II. From the Kansas to the Platte. Compagnons du Voyage.—Afloat on the Plains.—Travelling by Ambulance.—Camping- out.—Outfit and Escort.—The "divides."—The Platte itself.—The Grasshoppers.— Prairie-chickens and other Game.—Prairie Dogs.—A Happy Family.—The Little Blue.—The Pawnees and Indian rumors generally.—Virginia Station and Big Sandy. —The Settlers en route.—A Pennsylvania Dutchman Westernized.—Life on Fancy Creek.—Rev. Mr. Silvers of Wild Cat Creek.—A Pioneer Missionary. 33-39 CHAPTER III. Up the Platte to Denver. The Union Pacific Railroad.—The Overland Stage Company.—Mr. Ben Holladay.—An Enterprising Missourian.—Concord Coaches and Teams.—Stage Stations.—Meals en route.—The Drivers generally.—Fellow-passengers.—Col. B., an ex-Lieut.- Governor turned Sutler.—A Swiss Artist.—A Doctor of Divinity.—A New York Banker and his Patriotic Wife.—The Weather.—Life on a Stage-Coach, outside Day and Night.—The Scenery generally.—Magnificent Sunsets.—A particularly fine one. 40-46 CHAPTER IV. Up the Platte to Denver (concluded). The Platte Valley in general.—Its Features and Resources.—The Platte River itself.—The Cañon Cedars.—Want of Timber.—Costly Fuel, Grain, etc. at Fort Sedgwick.— Scenery of the Plains generally.—Buffalo and their Range.—A Ride after Antelope. —Lost on the Plains.—Buffalo Trails.—The Settlers generally.—Kearney City, Julesburg, etc.—The Ranches.—Fort Wicked.—Wagon-trains.—Prairie Schooners. —Bull-drivers.—Sioux Indians.—"Big Injun" stories generally. 47-57 CHAPTER V. Denver and the Mines. Denver itself.—A Mountain City.—Her Growth and Enterprise.—Judge Gale and her Gamblers.—Bishop Randall.—Her want of Trees and Shrubbery.—Metropolis of Colorado.—Gov. Cumming.—Hints of Judge Lynch.—Reception of Gen. Sherman and Brother.—Golden City.—The Snowy Range.—Central City.—Its Population and Pluck.—Placer Mining.—Quartz Lodes.—Gregory Mine.—A Good Superintendent vs. a Poor One.—Colorado Ores in general.—A new "process" wanted.—Watered Stock Companies.—"Freezing Out."—Mining Statistics.—The Coming Mineralogist.—Idaho City.—The Saratoga of Colorado.—Georgetown and Mill City.—Clear Creek and ride back to Denver.—Miners Slang.—"You Bet." 58-74 CHAPTER VI. Among the Mountains. First View of Rocky Mountains.—Above and Across them to Fort Garland.—Rumors of Indians.—A Stormy Divide.—"Dirty Woman's Ranch."—Castle Rock.—Buttes.— Monument Creek.—Garden of the Gods.—Pike's Peak.—Soda Springs.— Colorado City.—Cañon City.—Fontaine qui Bouilli.—Irrigation.—Pueblo.—The Arkansas, Greenhorn, and Huerfano, and their Valleys.—Mexican Laborers.— Hincklin's Ranch.—Sangre del Christo Pass.—Views from Summit.—Descent into San Luis Park.—Sangre del Christo Creek.—A Mule-back Ride.—Trout Fishing.— Snow-squalls and a Cold "Camp."—Mexicans and Bronchos,—Culebra.—A Mexican Baille.—Don Jesus.—A Dancing People. 75-93 [Pg x] [Pg xi] CHAPTER VII. Among the Mountains (continued). The Parks of the Rocky Mountains.—San Luis Park particularly.—The Backbone of the Continent.—The Rio Grande and its Bottoms.—Fine Trout-streams.—Snow Squalls.—Sierra Blanca.—Russell's Ranch.—Good Specimen of a Colorado Pioneer.—Homan's Park.—Kerber's Ranch.—A Dairy in the Heart of the Rocky Mountains.—Hospitable Germans.—Camping-out on the Summit.—Poncho Pass and Creek.—Absence of Game.—A Bad Road.—The Arkansas again.—South Park.—Leutze's Painting in the Capitol.—Mexican vs. Yankee.—Salt Works.— Duck Shooting.—Fair Play.—South Platte.—Placer Mining.—Buckskin Joe.— Judge Costello and his Hotel.—The Newspapers again.—Elections of 1866.— Rocky Mountain Eagle.—Down the South Platte.—A Good Road.—Bradford's Hill.—The Plains again.—The Mule Kate.—A Gold and Silver Mining Company.— A Little Fun! 95-113 CHAPTER VIII. The Indians—Gen. Sherman—Kit Carson, etc. Sherman and Utes in Council at Fort Garland.—Sherman and the Arrapahoes.—Gov. Cumming and Ute Treaty.—Indian Ponies.—Ute Costumes.—Ute Village.—Boy Braves.—Indian Dogs.—Indian Profanity.—Lost at Night among them.—Something of an Adventure.—A Scary Situation.—Wellington.—The Treaty itself.—Ooray.— Ancantash.—Shauno.—Speech of Gov. Cumming.—Kit Carson as Interpreter.— Ooray's Cute Replies.—Indian Presents.—"Swopping."—Jack Cox.—Ute Dance by Moonlight on the banks of the Rio Grande.—Ute Squaws.—The Average Indian. —Kit Carson.—His Personal Appearance and Character.—His Life and Adventures.—Kit on Fremont.—Sherman on Kit Carson.—Kit on the Indian Question.—The Chivington Massacre, etc.—Sherman's Opinion of New Mexico, etc.—Sumner's Ditto.—Sherman as a Talker and Smoker. 114-142 CHAPTER IX. Denver to Salt Lake. Rocky Mountains from Denver.—Off for the Pacific.—Mountain Mud-wagons.— Laporte.—Gen. Dodge.—The Foot-hills.—Virginia Dale.—Miners going East to Winter.—Willow Spring.—An Indian Scare.—Stampedes.—Old Fort Halleck.— Laramie Plains.—North Platte and Valley.—Bridger's Pass.—Across the Summit.— Sulphur Springs.—Bitter Creek Country.—Alkali Region.—A Delirium Tremens Passenger.—A Square Meal at Laclede.—A Driver's Opinion of Bitter Creek.— Green River.—Church Butte.—Rocky Mountain Stories.—Stage-coaching Philosophically Considered.—Something about Smoking.—A Mustang Team and a Runaway.—Fort Bridger and Judge Carter.—Sage-hens.—Marmion and the Bible in a Cabin.—Echo Cañon.—Mormon Campaign, 1857-8.—Weber Valley.— Mormons.—Parley's Cañon.—Salt Lake City.—A Hearty Sleep. 143-163 CHAPTER X. At Salt Lake City. [Pg xii] Salt Lake House.—Beauty of the City.—Rasselas' Happy Valley.—A Sunday at the Tabernacle.—A Mormon Missionary.—Their Sacrament.—George Q. Cannon and his Address.—Exercises generally.—Mountain Fever.—Hot Sulphur Springs.— City-wall.—Mormon Militia Muster.—The Review—Their Lieutenant-General Commanding and Brigadier-Generals.—A Dubious if not Menacing Military Body. —Interview with Brigham Young.—A Talk about Southern Utah.—He "Disremembers" rather Suspiciously.—His Views on Religion, Polygamy, Utah, etc. —His Personal Appearance and Character.—Mormon Theatre.—Brigham and his Family Present.—General Audience.—Polygamy and its Effects. 164-182 CHAPTER XI. Mormon Outrages—Polygamy, etc. Previous Impressions.—A Recent Outrage.—Dr. Robinson's Case.—Proceedings in the U. S. District Court.—An Atrocious Murder.—The Church Implicated.—A Vigilance Committee Proposed.—Shrewdness of Brigham Young.—His Telegram to Sherman.—It Paid the Saints.—The Logical Fruit of Mormonism.—Bad Teachings of Leaders.—Gentiles vs. Mormons.—Remarkable Statements of a U. S. Judge.— He Believes in Thugs and Danites.—His Views of Dr. Robinson's Case.—Mormon Juries.—Brassfield's Case.—The Mountain Meadow Massacre.—Brigham Young Responsible.—Andrew Johnson on Utah.—Growth of Polygamy.—Its Practical Workings.—A Second Wife on the Rampage.—Polygamous Children.—No Free Schools.—Foulness of Polygamy.—The Jury Trouble again.—Judge ——'s Remedy.—U. S. Troops essential there.—Pacific Railroad unlikely to solve the Problem soon.—Brigham Young's Successor.—His Cowardice Personally.—A Brave Official.—The High Council of the Church overrules Federal Decisions, etc. 183-198 CHAPTER XII. Mormonism in General. Mormon Industry and Thrift.—Their System of Irrigation.—Small Farms.—Good Homes. —No Drunkenness or Gambling.—Salt Lake City again.—Mormonism itself.—A Colonization Scheme, rather than Religion.—The Bishops Sharp Business Men.— The Tendency of Mormon Teachings.—Mormon Disloyalty.—Mormon Women.— Polygamy an Insult to Civilization.—A Crime against Humanity.—It should be Stamped Out, sans Ceremony, and Instanter. 199-205 CHAPTER XIII. Salt Lake to Boisè City. Ben Holliday again.—His Great Stage Lines.—Wells, Fargo & Co.—Profits and Losses. —His Appearance and Character.—Off for the Columbia.—Great Salt Lake.— Brigham Young's Islands and Cañons.—Hot Springs.—Ogden City.—Bishop West. —Joseph Young.—Brigham City.—A Ute Brave.—Ute Squaws.—Brigham Young's Indian Policy.—Bear River.—The Country generally.—Bad Water.— Malàde Station.—Indians and Wolves.—Snake River.—Subterranean Stream and Cascade.—Great American Falls.—Barren Country.—Valley of the Boisè.—The Ride generally.—Square Meals.—Mr. Superintendent Halsey.—A Live Man. 206-222 CHAPTER XIV. Boisè City to the Columbia. [Pg xiii] [Pg xiv] Idaho.—Boisè City.—Miners.—Saloons.—Specie and "Dust" vs. Greenbacks.—John Chinaman.—An Idaho Dogberry vs. Judge Lynch.—Idaho generally.—Fort Boisè. —A Lucky Paymaster.—"Swinging Round the Circle."—Off for the Columbia.— Burnt River and Powder River and their Valleys.—Snake River again.—Farewell Bend.—Steamboating on the Snake.—Bituminous Coal.—Oregon.—Baker City.— Grand Ronde Valley.—Le Grande.—Crossing the Blue Mountains.—Mules vs. Horses.—Le Grande River.—Scenery.—A Corkscrew Road.—"Jordan a Hard Road to Travel."—Freight Trains and Teamsters.—Some "Horse" Philosophy.— Bull-whackers as a Class.—Ox-teams.—A Hard Pull.—Break-downs. —"Meacham's."—A Live Oregonian.—Pikes and Confederates.—Caught in a Snow Storm.—A Fine View.—"Crawfords."—"Well's Springs."—A Sick Horse.— Umatilla River.—Indian Reservation.—Fine Water-power—John Wilful.—A Specimen Idahoan.—Good-bye to Stage-coaching, etc. 223-249 CHAPTER XV. Down the Columbia. Umatilla.—Indians.—A Mr. Micawber.—Steamboats.—Capt. Stump.—Oregon Steam Navigation Company.—The Columbia and its Tributaries.—Indians.—"Calico" Horses.—Celilo.—Railroad Portages.—Shooting the Rapids in a Steamboat.—The Dalles.—Upper Cascades.—Lower Cascades.—Wild and Picturesque River Scenery.—Cascade Mountains.—Cañon of the Columbia.—Castle Rock.—Mount Hood.—Hood from the Columbia.—Quick Changes of Climate.—Coast Region and Rains.—Fellow-passengers. 250-260 CHAPTER XVI. Fort Vancouver to San Francisco. Vancouver.—Gen. Steele.—About Sherman.—The Truth as to Grant's Vicksburg Campaign.—A True Army Bachelor.—Isothermal Lines.—Superb Hood again.— Portland.—Her Enterprise and Importance.—Yankee Doodle vs. John Bull.—Puget Sound.—Oregonians generally.—John Chinaman.—His Good Qualities.—Off for San Francisco by Steamer.—Mountain Views from Mouth of Willamette.— Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and St. Helen's.—Astoria.—Rain and Fog.—Bar of the Columbia.—Fort Stevens and Cape Disappointment.—Crossing the Bar.—The Oriflamme and Capt. Conner.—Sea Sickness.—Bad Weather.—A Rough Voyage. —Off 'Frisco.—All hail, the Golden Gate! 261-275 CHAPTER XVII. San Francisco. Her Position Geographically.—Her Great Bay.—Location of City faulty.—Her Sand-hills. —Her Sea-wall.—Her Great Commerce.—Some Statistics.—The View from Telegraph Hill.—Her Progress and Energy.—Bad Climate.—Her Rainy Winters.— Her Earthquakes.—Her Raw Summers.—Montgomery Street.—Her Public Buildings.—Private Residences.—Flower Gardens.—Wind-mills.—The Representative Californian.—Montgomery Street Dames.—Her Sabbaths.—Jewish Synagogue.—Starr King's Church.—Other Churches.—Society generally. 276-289 CHAPTER XVIII. San Francisco (continued). Greenbacks vs. Gold and Silver.—General Prices.—Loyalty of the Coast.—Anxious for Alaska.—Christmas and New Year's.—Lucky Army Officers.—Adventure on the Bay.—Oakland.—Cliff House and Sea Lions.—"Ben Butler" and "Gen. Grant."— Fine Ride.—Ups and Downs of California Life.—Eccentric Oscar H.—Things Improving. 290-299 [Pg xv] [Pg xvi] CHAPTER XIX. San Francisco (concluded). The Heathen Chinee.—Their Numbers, Costumes, Habits, etc.—Eager to Learn Melican Ways.—Pigeon English.—Grand Banquet.—Their Graceful Manners.—Their Great Companies.—Their Talent for Organization and Business.—They run the Mission Mills and build the Pacific Railroad.—An Evening in the Chinese Quarter.—Their Theatre and Orchestra.—A Lottery Office.—The Barbary Coast.—An Augean Stable.—Their Gambling Houses.—Chinese New Year.—Their Hospitality and Politeness.—Good Bankrupt Law.—Their Josh-Houses and Religion.—The Chinese Problem generally.—Good Chance for Missionary Work.—Fiat Justitia. 300-321 CHAPTER XX. San Francisco to Los Angelos. Off for Los Angelos.—A Race with the Golden Age.—A Pacific Sea.—Coast Scenes.— Santa Barbara.—Spanish Missions.—San Pedro.—San Diego.—Her Harbor.— John Phœnix.—A Deserted Village.—The County Jail.—Climate.—Business.— Whale-fishing.—San Pedro again.—Wilmington.—Gen. Banning.—A Representative Californian.—The Village Barber—The Los Angelos Plains.— Rancheros.—Wild Geese, etc.—Acequias.—Los Angelos and its Suburbs.— Population.—Climate.—Sundays.—Vineyards.—"Don Benito" Wilson.—His Noble Ranch.—His Orange Groves, Vineyards, Wine-cellars, etc.—Cheap Lands. 322-338 CHAPTER XXI. Wilmington to Fort Yuma. Outfit.—Getting Off.—Anaheim.—German Enterprise.—Santa Anna River.—Laguna Grande.—A Spanish Hacienda.—Buena Vista.—Villacito.—Colorado Desert.— Carissa Creek.—Desolate Landscapes.—Sand Storms.—Mirage.—The Laguna.— Alamo.—Pilot Knob.—The Country generally.—Stage Stations.—Carissa Creek again.—A Stray Texan.—Bill of Fare.—Indians.—A Border Outrage.—Gambling Charley.—Mexican Exiles.—Maximilian.—"Inside" and "Outside.". 339-354 CHAPTER XXII. Fort Yuma to Tucson. Fort Yuma itself.—Arizona City.—Rio Colorado.—Difficult Navigation.—High River Freights.—A Yuma Sand Storm.—The Thermometer at Yuma.—Yuma Indians.— Old Pasquol.—Good Missionary Ground.—Gov. McCormick, etc.—"Outfit."—Off for Tucson.—Gila City.—The Gila itself.—General Scenery.—Gila Bottoms.— Bunch-grass and Mesquite Trees.—Arizona Settlers.—Gila Bend.—Maricopa Desert.—A Dangerous Cañon.—Painted Rocks.—The Country generally.—Big Cactus.—Maricopa and Pimo Indians.—Well-to-do Aborigines—Indian Traders.— Pimo Wigwams.—Our then Indian Policy.—Good Roads.—Sparse Population.— Big Cactus and Bunch-grass.—Picacho and Point of Mountains.—Climate.— Apaches, etc. 355-373 CHAPTER XXIII. Tucson to Prescott. [Pg xvii] Tucson.—Misses a "Sensation."—Population.—A Mexican Padre.—High Prices.—The Santa Cruz.—Climate.—Apaches.—Blackbirds.—Rip Van Winkle Town.— Headquarters of Military District.—Route of Supplies.—Libertad and Guaymas Routes.—Copper and Silver Mines.—Church at San Xavier.—Maricopa Wells again.—Freshets in the Gila and Salado.—Col. Crittenden, etc.—An Out-of-the- way Place.—A Fortunate Discovery.—Crossing the Gila.—Brave Louis Heller.— Mules on a Swim.—Crossing the Salado.—Fort McDowell.—Down the Salado.— Among the Apaches.—Poor Cavalry-horses.—A Blind Road.—The Agua Frio.— White Tanks.—A Supperless Night.—Up the Hassayampa.—A Hard Road to Travel.—Arizona Quicksands.—No Hurry for Population or Business.—Roads and Bridges Wanted. 374-389 CHAPTER XXIV. Tucson to Prescott (continued). Wickenburg.—The Vulture Mine.—A Fine Quartz-mill.—A Valuable Mining Property.— San Francisco Mountains.—Singular Roads.—Skull Valley.—Sparse Population.— Apaches and Yavapais.—Bell's Cañon.—Indian Attacks generally.—The Intervening Country.—Ancient Ruins and Broken Pottery.—A Huge Acequia.— Work for Antiquarians.—Good Bottoms along the Salado and Gila.—A Railroad Much Needed. 390-396 CHAPTER XXV. Prescott, the Apaches, etc. Prescott.—A New-England-like Village.—An Army Officer's Opinion.—Location, Plan, Buildings, etc.—A Barber's Opinion.—Her Gold and Silver Mines.—Her Quartz- mills Idle.—Mining Operations "Sick."—Her Advantages, however.—Capital of Arizona.—Population of Territory.—The Indians.—The Apaches generally.—Their Brave Exploits.—Good Horse-thieves.—Their Wise Strategy.—Their Captive Children.—A Raid near Prescott.—Their Pursuit to Hell Cañon and beyond.—Gen. Irvin Gregg.—A Fight with the Apaches.—A Dangerous District.—A Typical Emigrant.—Aztec Remains.—A Fine Wild Turkey.—Fort Whipple.—A Costly Post.—An Expensive Flag-staff, etc.—Hail, Cavalry Gregg! 397-408 CHAPTER XXVI. Prescott to Los Angelos. Off for Los Angelos.—Williamson's Valley.—Wild Game.—Juniper Mountain.—Rock Springs.—Cottonwood Cañon.—Beale's Springs.—A Desolate Country.—Sage- brush and Grease-wood.—Want of Water.—Indians again.—Sublime Scenery.— Union Pass.—Rio Colorado again.—Mojave Indians.—Our Indian Policy then.— Fort Mojave.—A Rude Post.—A Pittsburg Lady "Roughing it" there.—Hardyville— Adjacent Mines.—Mr. Hardy himself.—Costly Transportation the Great Drawback to Arizona.—The Colorado should be Utilized.—Beaver Lake.—A Desert Country again.—Changes of Elevation.—Heat and Rattlesnakes.—Interesting Bed-fellows.— Pai-Ute Hill—A Break-down.—Camp Rock Springs.—Our Frontier Posts generally.—Soda Lake.—A Weary and Anxious Sunday.—An Indian Scare.— Mojave River.—Strange Anomalies in Arizona and Southern California.—A Dismal Ranchman.—Camp Cady.—Cajon Pass.—San Bernardino.—The Los Angelos Plains again.—"Out of the Wilderness."—Back to 'Frisco by Sea. 409-424 CHAPTER XXVII. San Francisco to Virginia City. [Pg xviii] [Pg xix] Off for Sacramento.—Fellow-passengers.—Children.—Sacramento River.—Sacramento City.—Thence by Railroad.—Country generally.—The Wheat Fields and Live Oaks.—The Foot-hills.—Placer Mining.—Water-ditches.—Hydraulic Mining.— Changes in Climate.—Central Pacific Railroad.—Cisco.—The Sierra Nevadas.— Deep Snows still, May 17th.—Snow-sheds.—John Chinaman again.—Donner Lake.—The Truckee.—The Geiger Grade.—Sunday in Nevada.—A Noted Revivalist.—Virginia City.—The Comstock Lode.—Silver Mining generally.—The Sutro Tunnel.—Mining a Risky Business. 425-436 CHAPTER XXVIII. Virginia City to Stockton. Return by Placerville.—Carson City.—Carson River and Valley.—The Sierras again.— Mountain Turnpikes.—A Rough Night's Travel.—Crossing the Summit.—An Ambitious Mother and her Florence Mary.—A Morning Ride.—Lake Tahoe.— Splendid Stage-driving.—Placerville.—Sacramento City again.—California's Wealth of Roses, etc.—Country to Stockton.—Live Oaks.—Wheat-fields.—Vineyards.— Flocks and Herds.—Wind-mills.—Stockton itself. 437-442 CHAPTER XXIX. Stockton to the Yosemite. Off for the Yo-sem-i-te.—Wheat-fields again.—The Stanislaus and Tuolomne.—The Coast Range.—Coulterville.—A Horseback Ride.—Mustang Pony.—My Guide.— Bower Cave.—"Black's."—A Romantic Trail.—Up and Over the Sierras.— Floundering through the Snows.—First View of the Yosemite.—Fording Mountain Torrents.—Descent into the Valley.—"Hutchings'."—A Ramble through the Yosemite.—A Fissure in the Sierras.—Its Lofty Walls.—Snowbanks above; Strawberries below.—Waterfalls.—Bridal Veil Fall.—El Capitan.—Yosemite Fall. —Merced River.—The Lake and Domes.—South Fork.—Prof. Whitney and Party. —The Cascades.—Vernal Fall.—Rainbows.—Nevada Fall.—Mt. Broderick.— Sentinel Peak.—Cathedral Rocks.—The Valley generally. 443-455 CHAPTER XXX. The Yosemite to San Francisco. Prof. Whitney again.—The Mariposa Trail.—Inspiration Point.—A Sublime View.—The Hermitage.—The Snow again.—A Grizzly Bear and Cubs.—The Sugar Pines.—The South Merced.—"Clerk's."—Galen Clark himself.—Mariposa Big Trees.—Grizzly Giant, etc.—The Species generally.—California's Duty.—Mariposa.—A Sleepy Town.—Honitos.—Bear Valley.—The Coast Range and Mt. Diabolo.—Stockton again.—Back to San Francisco. 456-465 CHAPTER XXXI. San Francisco to New York. Ride to San Josè.—Off for New York.—The Weather.—Delightful Voyaging.—The Constitution.—Fellow-passengers.—Cape St. Lucas.—Manzanillo.—Acapulco.— A Mexican Seaport.—"Greasers."—Good Divers.—Sights Ashore.—The Cathedral.—The Old Spanish Fort.—Off for Panama.—Panama itself.—Location. —Business and People.—Railroad to Aspinwall.—Breakdown in a Jungle.— Tropical Scenery.—The Railroad itself.—The Natives.—Aspinwall.—The Rising Star.—New Passengers.—Caribbean Sea.—Cuba.—Gulf Stream.—Sandy Hook. —Home again.—"Adios." 466-477 [Pg xx] Appendix 481-492 Index 493 MAP OF UNITED STATES MEXICO & CENTRAL AMERICA to illustrate RUSLING'S "ACROSS AMERICA" Across America; OR, THE GREAT WEST AND THE PACIFIC COAST. CHAPTER I. FROM NEW YORK TO FORT RILEY, KANSAS. Across America, from New York to San Francisco, may be roughly estimated as three thousand miles. The first third of this occupied us only about three days and three nights, though the whole trip consumed just less than a twelve-month. From New York to St. Louis, via Cincinnati, was our first stage, and of course by railroad. We left New York, Tuesday, July 24, 1866, by the Erie Railway, and on the following Thursday afternoon reached St. Louis in time for a late dinner. Tarrying here a day or two, to pick up some information about the Plains, we passed on to Leavenworth; and thence, after a longer pause to Fort Riley. The Union Pacific Railroad, Eastern Division (or Kansas Pacific, as it is now generally called), halted then at Waumega, some thirty miles from Fort Riley, whence we reached Riley by stage- coach. The coach itself was a lumbering, weather-beaten vehicle, with sorry teams of horses; it was a hot August afternoon, with rolling clouds of dust; we had nine passengers inside and three outside, with freight and baggage everywhere; and altogether this little stage-ride was a good initiation into the mysteries and miseries of stage-coaching across the continent. From New York to St. Louis is already a series of towns and cities, with the country as a whole well settled up, for America. The Great West, it is soon seen, is no longer the valley of Ohio and the prairies of Illinois. It has long since crossed the Mississippi, and emigrated beyond the Missouri. What used to be called the "West" has already become the centre; and "out west" now means Kansas or Colorado, if anything at all. The Erie road, with its broad-gauge coaches, takes you through the picturesque, as well as rich and fertile regions of northern New Jersey, and western New York, whence the ride through Ohio, down the lovely valley of the Miami to Cincinnati, is substantially as through a garden. Over much of this region, it is plain to be seen, New England has left her mark, never to be effaced. Her school-houses and churches, her intelligence and thrift, are all reproduced (only slightly westernized), and one can see that he is in Yankee-land still at a glance. You might know it, by the omnipresence of white paint and green blinds, if nothing else. You see it in the average inhabitant and detect it in his speech. And yet it is Yankee-land, with enlarged freedom and independence of thought and action, and therefore doubly welcome. Southern Indiana and Illinois, you find rapidly filling up; but they still seem much behind that sunny heart of Ohio, the Miami Valley. Populated largely by the overflow from Kentucky and Tennessee—chiefly the "poor whites" of those former slave states—the results are everywhere unmistakable. Evidently, even to the passing traveller, the average Hoosier or Sucker, as yet, is much behind the average Buckeye, and he will find it a hard task to overtake him. The lineal descendant of the Cavalier and the Corncracker, how can he expect to compete successfully with the regular representative of the Roundhead and the Yankee? Cincinnati and St. Louis strike you as large and growing cities; but they do not impress you like Chicago, at least as she [Pg 21] [Pg 22] [Pg 23] did before the great fire. They seem to have taken Quaker Philadelphia, as their type and model, rather than buoyant New York. Many of their streets, you find similarly named, and a like atmosphere pervades much of their business. In talking with their magnates of trade and finance, you note a conservative tone, that illy accords with your ideas of the West, and you are inclined to wonder whether the far-famed push and pluck of that romantic region are not myths after all. Buffalo and Toledo, Cleveland and Chicago, however, would soon undeceive you—especially, Chicago. The push and drive, the enterprise and elan of New York, that are reproduced so well along our northern tier of cities, all culminated at Chicago—at least before the fire—until she seemed New York incarnate or even intensified. The metropolis and brain of the northwest, how a day in her busy streets braced and inspired one! With all her brave memories of the past, no wonder she still believes enthusiastically in herself, and even in her ashes doubted not her future! St. Louis, long her rival in trade, we found just beginning to recover from the benumbing effects of slavery and the rebellion. The rebellion, sealing up her railroads and extinguishing her down-river trade, had given her a bad set back. But she was already fast picking up the broken threads of her commerce, and was again preparing to contend with Chicago for the palm of supremacy. Seated on the Mississippi, with a vast river trade up and down, and an immense region back of her, her geographical position could scarcely be surpassed, and no doubt she has a grand and noble future before her. Her levees, we found, thronged with steamers, some up for New Orleans 1,200 miles south; others for Fort Benton 3,100 miles north and west. Her population already exceeded a quarter of a million. Her suburbs were steadily filling up, in spite of numerous sinkholes in the limestone formation there. Her streets were already well gridironed with horse-railroads. Her facilities for business were large and increasing. And with her vast system of rivers, north to the British Dominion and south to the gulf, and her rapidly developing back country—even to the Rocky Mountains and New Mexico—nature seems to have destined her to become the great and abiding metropolis of all that region. Her vast bridge and tunnels were not yet begun, but she was already prophesying great things for the future. From St. Louis, three hundred miles through Missouri, to Leavenworth, Kansas, you find a noble region, that needs only a live population to make it a garden. It is mostly rich rolling prairie, but with more timber and streams than in Illinois, and with limestone abounding nearly everywhere. All along the route, it was plain to be seen, Missouri had suffered sadly from slavery. Both in population and business, in town and country, clearly "the trail of the serpent" had been over her all. But the wave of immigration, now that slavery was dead, had already reached her, and we found its healthful currents everywhere overflowing her bottoms and prairies. The new-comers seemed to be largely Yankee and German, almost everywhere. France once so predominant here, was already supplanted by Germany, and the Teuton bade fair to rule Missouri soon, even then. At Hermann, where we stopped for dinner, a German Hebe tendered us excellent native wine, and the culture of the grape, we learned, had already become a leading industry of this section of the state. The sturdy Rhine-men, as true to freedom as in the days of Tacitus, were already everywhere planting vineyards, and in the near future were sure of handsome returns from petty farms, that our old time "Pikes" and "Border Ruffians" would have starved on. Throughout the ride, the Missouri or Big-Muddy, as the Indians call it, was often in sight, a broad tawny stream; and many of its bends and reaches were so beautiful, that it hardly seemed to deserve that savage criticism of Bayard Taylor's, as being "too lazy to wash itself." Its banks as a rule are higher and better, than those of the Mississippi anywhere below Cairo, and its bottom lands seemed unsurpassed in fertility. Leavenworth, on the Missouri, where it takes a final bend north, was still the entrepôt for New Mexico and the plains. Omaha had already tapped the Colorado and Utah trade and travel, and has since mainly absorbed them, by the completion of the Union Pacific railroad. But Leavenworth still had a large trade and travel of her own, as a point of departure for New Mexico and the Plains, and seemed destined to maintain it. Only a decade or so before, she was without a house or inhabitant; but now she claimed thirty-thousand people, and was rapidly increasing. We found many handsome stores and elegant residences everywhere going up. Her streets were fast being graded and macadamized, and the guttering especially was most solid and substantial. She had several daily papers already, with weekly editions of a large circulation. Many of her stores were doing a wholesale business of a million of dollars annually. A fine Catholic church was being erected, which when completed promised to be the chief ornament of the city. But the largest and showiest building there then was a combined brewery and dance house, which augured badly for the town. Off on the suburbs of the city, we passed a park of wagons or "prairie-schooners," acres in extent, tangible evidence that we had already struck the commerce of the Plains. By Lawrence and Topeka, already towns of several thousand people, over the historic plains of Kansas, we sped along up the valley of the Kaw or Kansas to Waumega; and thence, as I have said, by stage to Fort Riley. Junction City, just beyond Fort Riley, at the confluence of the Republican and Smoky Hill rivers, we found to be a hamlet of several hundred people, and already growing rapidly. It had been projected, with the expectation that the railroad would bend north here, and ascending the Republican go thence to Denver, which would have made Junction the last station and grand depot for all New Mexico and much of the Rocky Mountain region. But, as it had been decided afterwards to keep on up the Smoky Hill instead, Junction had missed of much of its importance. Its location, however, was good, at the confluence thus of two rivers; and with its single street of straggling houses, of all styles of architecture, and in every stage of construction, it was a good specimen of a frontier town, in the first year of its settlement. The country as a whole, thus far through Kansas, much surpassed our expectations. Not only were the broad bottoms of the Kaw everywhere dotted with farms, but even the high rolling prairies beyond were fast settling up. Of course, settlements grew more scattering the farther we progressed westward; but they were always in sight and everywhere rapidly increasing. Herds of horses and cattle grazed along the bottoms, and grouse and sage-hens whirred up by the [Pg 24] [Pg 25] [Pg 26] [Pg 27] roadside as we sped along. At one point, a brace of oxen, yoked together, got upon the track, and our engine mangled the poor beasts dreadfully before they escaped. The road, as yet, was poorly ditched, and without fences on either side, so that horses and cattle strayed across it quite at will. The wheat-crop had everywhere been fair, and Indian corn was promising to be magnificent. Corn had looked well, all through Ohio and Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; but in the Kansas bottoms it was superb in its "embattled glory," and seemed to be a great favorite with the farmers. Indeed, Kansas, both in soil and climate, is a rare state, and well worth to freedom all the blood and treasure she cost us. True she lacks timber; but so far she had got along, and the weight of testimony seemed everywhere to be that her growth of timber improved with the reclamation and settlement of the country. The Indian was everywhere retiring before the pale faces, and the autumnal fires ceasing with his departure, bushes and trees soon appeared, and we heard repeated instances of springs even breaking out, where none had been known before. As an offset to her want of timber, coal had been discovered in many places, and all through the valley of the Kaw, she has a cream-colored limestone in the bluffs, that works up beautifully for building purposes. When first quarried, it is so soft that a common hand-saw or chisel can dress it into any shape desired; but exposure to the atmosphere soon hardens it, and then it continues so. In appearance it resembles the Milwaukee free-stone, that used to make Michigan Avenue, Chicago, so handsome and stately, and as a building material will prove immensely valuable through all Southern Kansas. At Junction City it was being got out by machinery, and fashioned into blocks by horsepower. A company controlled the business, and as they could furnish this elegant stone at a much less cost than lumber or brick, they were anticipating very handsome profits. The scenery of Kansas possesses many points of interest, but as a whole lacks grandeur and sublimity. The view from Prospect Ridge, back of Leavenworth, up and down the Missouri, is good; but the landscape from Indian Point, near Junction City, up the Smoky Hill, has more scope and variety, and was the finest we saw. Here, and at other points, are some superb specimens of river terraces. We counted four and five separate "benches," as they call them there, or terraces, in many places, and the ancient water-marks of past geologic ages seemed very evident. The rounded appearance of the country generally, cropping out here and there into rough and misshapen ridges, indicated pretty clearly the former water-line, and we often interested ourselves in tracing it for miles. Kansas, of course, abounds in enterprise and thrift. Saved to freedom by Sharpe's rifles and the Bible, she invested largely in the school-house and the church, and already reaps her fit reward. Her Yankees whittle away just as cutely as they used to in New England, and her Western men spread themselves hugely as elsewhere. Since the war, she had received quite a large accession of population from our ex-officers and soldiers. We found specimens of the Boys in Blue scattered almost everywhere, and usually they were doing well. A fine esprit du corps animated them, and will keep them knit together for the future. At various points we found them just "squatted" on a quarter-section, and with the very rudest surroundings, but ever plucky and hopeful. At Junction we met a late Paymaster, U. S. Vol's., who was half-owner of the chief grocery and liquor-store, as well as partner in a stone-quarry, and was about establishing a National Bank. He was a man of spirit and enterprise, and seemed to have enough surplus energy left for several more employments. At Leavenworth, up at the old Fort, we saw our first Indians—a party of Delawares. They consisted of Fall-Leaf, war- chief of the Delawares, his nephew General Jackson, and a handful of other braves. They were dressed in the usual rough costume of the border, but with an eagle-feather or two in their broad-brimmed sombreros trailing in the wind. Fall-Leaf was a noble specimen of the Indian in a half-civilized state. He was a brawny, athletic, powerful fellow, five feet eleven inches high, weighed one hundred and ninety-six pounds, and was fifty-five years old. A perfect mass of bone and muscle, without an ounce of superfluous flesh, his frame was a sight to look upon—especially the massive splendor of his neck and chest. A Hercules of the Plains, we could well believe the stories told of his great strength and powers of endurance. General Jackson was a lithe, light-built man, about thirty-six years of age, and in physique almost the opposite of his brawny uncle. Three of them had just been engaged as guides to a military expedition about leaving for the Indian country, and a fourth was going along as interpreter. Fall-Leaf had long served the government, with marked fidelity, as guide on the Plains and in the far Indian country, and received one hundred and fifty dollars per month and rations when absent on such duty. He was familiar with the whole country west, as far as the Rocky Mountains, and southward to New Mexico, and was reputed as invaluable in his way. He told me the Delawares numbered about a thousand souls yet, and had stood at those figures for several years. They occupy a Reservation of several thousand acres on the Missouri just below Leavenworth, and are engaged generally in farming and stock- raising. They have a church, pretty generally attended, and a good school, well-patronized. He said his people were fully impressed with the importance of education and religion, and generally there was an earnest desire among them to have their children learn all "Pale-Face ways." He said he took a drink of "fire-water" himself occasionally, on cold or wet days, and rather liked it; but that, as a rule, drunkenness was on the decrease among the Delawares, and he was glad of it. He had a wife and eight children, and said they allowed "only one wife at a time in his tribe." He said he was born far away toward the rising sun, on a river among the mountains; and when I showed him a map, he immediately pointed out the head-waters of the Delaware. When I told him I had just come from there, and that my "wigwam" stood upon its banks, he seemed greatly interested. The first steamboat he ever saw, was many years before at St. Louis, and he thought it "Very good," because "It went itself! Puff! Puff! No paddle!" His first locomotive, was quite recently at Leavenworth, and he thought it "Much good! Went whiz! Beat buffalo or pony!" Of the telegraph, he said, "I no understand; but very much good! Heap swift! Like arrow or bullet between wide places; only heap better!" He said, the Delawares believed in the Great Manitou, who made earth, and sky, and everything; but many did not believe in the Evil Manitou. He himself seemed to be a pretty good Universalist. He thought God "very much good," and couldn't imagine how any lesser being could interfere with Him. "Perhaps, Evil Manitou somewhere; but Fall-Leaf know [Pg 28] [Pg 29] [Pg 30] [Pg 31] only Good Manitou." He admitted some of his people believed in spirits; but he himself had never seen any, and was skeptical on the whole subject. Some medicine-men, he said, claimed to have seen them, and to be able to control them; but he thought the whole thing "a heap humbug." Fall-Leaf, as I have said, was then War Chief of the Delawares. In his time he had been quite a noted warrior, and was proud of his reputation for bravery and prowess. His last fight against the Plains Indians had been about two years before, when he covered the retreat of a squad of infantry, from a body of mounted Cheyennes and Arrapahoes, and brought them all safely off. His last fight at the head of the Delawares had been some ten years before, when with less than fifty warriors he encountered and fought over two hundred Pawnees, and whipped them well. Altogether, he supposed, he had killed and scalped two or three hundred Indians, in his time; but never a pale-face. He was a dignified and quiet enough looking Red Skin to talk to through an interpreter, and occasionally would grunt out a little broken English himself; but when roused, and with the fury of battle upon him, no doubt he would be an ugly customer to deal with. His face was full of smothered force and fire, of latent power and fierceness, like a tamed tiger's; and notwithstanding his peaceful demeanor, he all the while suggested that a single war-whoop, or a scalping-knife flashing through the air, would speedily transform the gentle Fall-Leaf into a hideous savage again. Beyond Topeka we passed St. Mary's, a Catholic Mission among the Pottawotamies. These Indians had a Reservation there then thirty miles square, of as fine land as there was in Kansas. Stock-raising seemed to be their chief occupation, though they had some fields well fenced, and their corn crops were looking well. They lived in one-story log-cabins, and by dint of years of hard work the missionaries had succeeded in reducing them to a sort of semi-civilization; but the aborigine survived still, and cropped out fearfully everywhere. It was an anomaly and an anachronism to see them driving teams and threshing grain; and they themselves seemed to confess it by their awkwardness. Beyond Manhattanville we met en route a large party of them—braves, squaws and papooses—returning from a Buffalo hunt on the Plains. Some were in wagons with their spoils of buffalo meat and robes; but the majority went careering along on horseback. Most of them were in semi-civilized costume, not much rougher than an average borderer, though their head-gear usually ran much to feather. A few of their young squaws were decidedly pretty and piquant, and, as they ambled by on their gaily-caparisoned ponies, created quite a sensation among us; but the older ones were hideous looking hags. In all this part of Kansas, the Indian had already had his day, and everywhere was being fast eliminated. The valleys of the Kaw and its two chief tributaries, the Republican and Smoky Hill, had already heard the whistle of the white man's locomotive, and the whole region there was beginning to shake with the tread of the onward march of civilization. As "Bleeding Kansas," she had had her dark days; but these, happily, were past, and the tide wave of eastern immigration was now surging and swelling all up and down her borders. We met cheery voices and friendly hands at every stage of progress; and could not but bid Kansas a hearty God-speed as we journeyed on. CHAPTER II. FROM THE KANSAS TO THE PLATTE. It was the middle of August, before I was ready to leave Fort Riley; and now a word about my compagnons du voyage. These were two, Mr. J. D. L. of Boston, my well-tried clerk and friend; and Dr. B. E. M. of New York, then recently Ass't. Editor —— Magazine. Mr. L. had been with me for several years in the field and at post; was active, intelligent, alert; and was as capital a shot, as he was rare a penman. Dr. M. I knew but slightly; but he came well- recommended, as a literateur and gentleman, and I was glad to have his company. He had been considerable of a traveller in Europe, and was now desirous of crossing the Continent to San Francisco, whence he might go over to Japan and China. Another gentleman had also talked much of joi...