Project Gutenberg's A Guide to the Virginia Springs, by John Jennings Moorman This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: A Guide to the Virginia Springs giving, in addition to the routes and distances, a description of the springs and also of the natural curiosities of the state Author: John Jennings Moorman Release Date: October 30, 2012 [EBook #41245] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A GUIDE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS *** Produced by Mark C. Orton, Juliet Sutherland and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net Cover A G U ID E TO TH E V IR G IN IA S P R IN G S : GIVING, IN ADDITION TO The Routes and Distances, A DESCRIPTION OF THE SPRINGS, AND ALSO OF THE NATURAL CURIOSITIES OF THE STATE. STAUNTON, VA.: ROBERT COWAN. PHILADELPHIA: THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT & CO. 1851. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, BY ROBERT COWAN, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Western District of Virginia. C. SHERMAN, PRINTER. PREFACE. So frequent has been the demand for some Guide to the Virginia Springs, of portable dimensions, and nothing of the kind having as yet appeared, we have been induced to compile the following little work, hoping to meet, in some measure, the wants of visiters to these Watering-Places. In giving the various routes, we have endeavoured to describe the Springs, and also the Natural Curiosities, as we proceed. Other matter than that for which we are indebted to the proprietors of the Springs, has been gathered from various publications. A number of books and pamphlets have been written about the Mineral Waters of Virginia, but in no single one, we believe, has an account been given of so many watering-places as in this. There are many other Springs in the State whose waters, no doubt, contain valuable medicinal qualities, perhaps even exceeding several of which an account has been given in this work; but as we have not been able to get information with regard to them,—not knowing, in fact, even their localities,—we must, of course, much as we regret it, omit them. There are, doubtless, also, many other great natural curiosities beside those of which we have given a description; but as we lay no claim to authorship,—merely being a compiler,—and having no information concerning them, we will have to leave them as we have done the Springs referred to in our last paragraph. February, 1851. GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. ROUTES TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. From Washington City to the Virginia Springs there are two main leading routes. One is down the Potomac River (passing in sight of Mount Vernon) to Acquia Creek, forty-five miles; thence by railroad to Fredericksburg, fourteen miles; to the Junction, thirty-seven miles; to Louisa Court-House, thirty-seven miles; to Gordonsville, thirteen miles; and to Charlottesville, twenty-one miles. One mile west of this place is the University of Virginia, one of the most flourishing institutions in the Union. The buildings are fine, and in full view from the road. Three miles southeast of Charlottesville is Monticello, the seat of Thomas Jefferson. The railroad not having, as yet, been completed beyond Charlottesville, we proceed thence by stage via Cox, Brookesville, Rockfish Gap, Waynesboro, and Fishersville to Staunton, thirty-eight miles. In this place are the Western Insane Asylum, and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, two noble state institutions. Staunton is much resorted to during the summer by persons from the tide-water region of the state. Stopping here, we have an opportunity of visiting Weyer's Cave and the Chimneys, two natural curiosities of this county (Augusta). Weyer's Cave, the most celebrated of these curiosities, is 17 miles northeast of Staunton. "This is the most remarkable cavern at present known, surpassing the Grotto of Antiparos, Fingal's Cave in Staffa, and the far-famed Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, which are remarkable only for dimensions. "Weyer's Cave, for its extent and variety, the singularity of its stalactitic concretions, the disposition of its festooning, the fantastic displays of its drapery, and the sublimity and grandeur of its scenery, is not surpassed by anything in nature. "The Guide's House is situated about eight hundred yards from the entrance to the Cave. In going from the house to the cave, you pass near Madison's Cave, which is in the same ridge, and only three hundred yards from it. Madison's Cave was known and visited as a curiosity long before the discovery of Weyer's Cave, but is now passed by and neglected, as being unworthy of notice, compared with its more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of a Jefferson to describe its beauties. "Weyer's Cave is about 2500 feet in length, yet its exploration does not in a direct line exceed 1800 feet. It is divided into several apartments of various sizes, some of which have received the names of 'Washington's Hall,' 'Congress Hall,' 'Jefferson's Hall,' 'The Senate Chamber,' 'Solomon's Temple,' &c. A distinguished Bostonian, in writing of this Cave, says,—'I have twice visited the Caverns of Matlock and Castleton, in Derbyshire, England, and have twice walked in the subterranean streets of Herculaneum, in the Catacombs of Rome, the tombs of the Scipios, and seen the subterranean wonders of the old world; but must confess Weyer's Cave in Virginia exceeds them all, in the beauty of its natural ornaments, and in its general effect. It is as dry, as well graded, and as easy of access, as European caverns. Washington's Hall, with its splendid hangings, its well-wrought fretwork, and the wonderful freak of Nature in placing a statue in the centre, is alone worth a pilgrimage to behold.' "'Veni vidi victus sum!' "The temperature of the Cave is 54½° of Fahrenheit, and never changes. It is therefore apparently warm in winter, and cool in summer. "Ladies should be provided with a light shawl, and thick shoes, in visiting this Cave." The other curiosity mentioned—the Cyclopean Towers, for many years known by the name of "The Chimneys," is about 16 or 18 miles north of Staunton. These summits or towers, of which there are seven, appear like so many antique chimneys in the midst of a grove. They rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a stream, to the height of about 60 or 70 feet, with projections like Gothic cornices. SPRINGS. There are several Mineral Springs in this county, none of which are much visited by persons from a distance. The most noted of these are the Augusta Springs, (formerly called Stribling's Springs,) about 13 miles northeast from Staunton. "The water is strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is said to equal the celebrated Harrowgate, in England." Crawford's Springs, 17 miles west of Staunton, on what is called the Free Turnpike, are also visited by persons from the neighbourhood, and said to contain valuable medicinal qualities. Union Spring is on the west side of the Blue Ridge, 20 miles east of Staunton; and the Lebanon White Sulphur about 20 miles northwest of Staunton, on the road leading from Harrisonburg to the Warm Springs. From Staunton to the Springs in western Virginia the route is, via Buffalo Gap 10 miles, Deerfield 12 miles, Cloverdale 8 miles, thence to Bath Alum Springs, 15 miles. "This new and elegant establishment is situated at the eastern base of the Warm Spring Mountain, on the route through Virginia by way of the Valley of the great Kanawha to Point Pleasant and Guyandotte on the Ohio River. It is very pleasantly located both in point of climate and scenery; the atmosphere is pure, bracing, and exhilarating; the mountain scenery diversified and picturesque. To the west and northwest is the Big Piney Mountain; on the southwest is Little Piney Mountain. These ranges lie parallel with the Warm Spring Mountain, and nature seems to have separated them for a road to the Far West. Through the 'gap' in these mountains the visiter enjoys a fine view of the celebrated 'Flag Rock,' the gap in the Warm Spring Mountain, and of the turnpike road (for about three-fourths of a mile) as it winds its way along the sides and finally reaches the summit of the mountain. "Eastward stretches McClung's Mountain, through which Thompson's Creek, sparkling and rapid, forces its way, giving view to Mill Mountain in the distance, whilst in the foreground rises Mayo's Hill, with its rich and beautiful laurel groves. "The buildings are situated on ground slightly undulating, of which 10 acres are enclosed and ornamented with shade trees, shrubbery, &c.; and in the rear is an extensive forest reaching to the base of the mountain. The houses are disposed in the form of a crescent, of which the centre and principal is the Hotel. This is three stories high besides the basement, 90 feet front by 50 deep, and contains a suite of parlours, very handsomely furnished reception-room, reading-room, the ball-room, and a number of double and single chambers. "The front is ornamented with a very elegant and airy double portico of 'fretwork,' furnishing an agreeable promenade to ladies and gentlemen above, and to the gentlemen below or on the first floor. "This central edifice is flanked east and west by two buildings, one at either end, corresponding with it in general appearance—but smaller in size, being but two stories high exclusive of basement, and 63 feet front by 40 deep. Each of these also has a portico of 'fretwork,' proportioned to its size as compared with the main Hotel. These buildings again are flanked at either extremity by four blocks of cabins or cottages, one story high, having small lattice porches in front, and harmonizing in general appearance with their larger and more imposing neighbours. But that which is of the most importance to the comfort of the sojourner is, that these chambers, besides being new, airy, and well ventilated, are furnished with the best of hair mattrasses. In this respect Bath Alum is probably not surpassed anywhere in the mineral regions of Virginia. Running back from the centre of the Hotel, in the rear of it, is the spacious dining-room 25 feet wide by 115 feet long, adapted for a double row of tables if necessary. The tea and store-rooms, kitchen and baker's rooms are east of the dining-room, and connected with it at the centre. "These buildings are all of brick, of superior workmanship, and handsomely furnished. Besides these, are provided in the background comfortable rooms for servants; and across the creek ample stabling and carriage room. Attached to the establishment are the plunge-baths, one 16 feet square, the other 12 feet square. "Although these improvements are all new, and have been put up since this property, two years ago, passed into the hands of its present energetic and liberal proprietor (Mr. John W. Frazier), yet the Alum Springs themselves have long been known for their highly medicinal qualities, and resorted to by people of this region of country, and even from distant parts, in spite of the want of all accommodations for visiters in the immediate vicinity. "The Springs are formed by water percolating through a high slate bank or bluff, and which thus becoming impregnated with its mineral properties, is collected into basins or springs at the base of the rock. These are six in number: three Alum Springs of different degrees of strength, one Magnesia Spring, one Chalybeate, and one Sulphur; sulphate of iron and alum, suiting themselves to most of the chronic diseases to which the human system is subject. For all derangements of the stomach, liver, and kidneys, chronic diarrhœa, chronic thrush, and for delicate females, these waters enjoy a wide and rapidly-growing reputation; while for diseases of the skin, or cutaneous affections of whatever sort, they are invaluable, and perhaps not surpassed by any mineral waters known. "To beginners the Alum Water is unpalatable and even repulsive; but as with the Sulphur, Saratoga and other mineral waters, so here, a longer acquaintance makes better friends, insomuch that 'old stagers' long for it as the toper for his bottle, and meeting with it in the cities would not give it in exchange for the finest soda-water, or the best iced lemonade." WARM SPRINGS. Five miles west of Bath Alum are the Warm Springs. This watering-place is delightfully situated in a fertile valley, immediately at the western base of the Warm Spring Mountain. The view from the top of the Mountain is very beautiful and extensive. The accommodations at these Springs are very good, and sufficient for about 100 persons. The following analysis of the water is by Professor Rogers: "The bath is an octagon, 38 feet in diameter, and 16 feet 9 inches wide—its area is 1163.77 feet. The ordinary depth of water being 5 feet, the cubic capacity is 5818.86 feet, or 43533.32 gallons. Notwithstanding the leaks, this quantity of water will flow into the reservoir in one hour. The average temperature of the bath is 98° Fahrenheit. The gas which rises in the bath consists of nitrogen, with minute quantities of sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid. "Besides this gas, each gallon of water contains 45 cubic inches of gas, consisting of nitrogen, 3.25 cubic inches: sulphuretted hydrogen, 0.25 cubic inches; carbonic acid 1.00 cubic inch. The saline contents of one gallon of the water are as follows: muriate of lime, 3.968; sulphate of magnesia, 9.984; carbonate of lime, 4.288; sulphate of lime, 5.466; a trace of soda, no doubt in the state of muriate. "While the Warm Springs afford the most luxurious bath in the world, they contain neutral salts and various gases, which act as a gentle aperient, diuretic, and sudorific, and give tone and vigour to the human system. It is well ascertained in other countries, that waters of a high temperature tend more to strengthen the digestive organs than those of a low temperature; but it is found, by actual experiment, that the water at the Warm Springs retains a considerable portion of its useful qualities when bottled in the Spring, and then cooled by immersing the bottles in cold water, or even ice; and this plan is adopted by many of those who have a repugnance to the use of warm water." Twelve miles east of the Warm Springs is the Blowing Cave. HOT SPRINGS. The next watering-place is the justly celebrated Hot Springs, five miles southwest of the former, and situated in the same beautiful valley. "There are six baths at this place, called Hot Spouts, each supplied with water from a separate spring; their highest temperature is about 106°. These waters contain sulphate of lime, carbonate of lime, sulphate of soda, magnesia, a minute portion of muriate of iron, carbonic acid gas, a trace of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, and nitrogen gas. Taken internally, they are anti-acid, mildly aperient, and freely diuretic and diaphoretic. But when used as a general bath, their effects are great. They equalize an unbalanced circulation, and thereby restore the different important parts of the system when torpid; they relax contracted tendons, excite the action of the absorbent system, promote glandular secretion, exert a marked and salutary influence over the whole biliary system, and often relieve in a short time, excruciating pain caused by palpable and long-standing disease of some vital organ. "The beneficial effects of hot spouts, topically applied, are so miraculous, in many painful and obstinate complaints, that words cannot adequately describe them. "The effect of this bath on rheumatic and gouty affections, and on old, deep-seated, and chronic complaints, that medicine does not seem to reach, is very beneficial. It restores the surface to a good condition, and promotes the healthy action of the skin; and every person who drinks the water of the various sulphur springs, should afterwards stop here two or three weeks, and try the virtue of the boiler. There are, near the hotel, a hot and a cold spring issuing so near each other, that you can dip the thumb and fore-finger of the same hand into hot and cold water at the same time. "These Springs are owned by Dr. Goode, who resides on the premises, and directs in the management. There are comfortable bathing houses for the accommodation both of male and female patients, in each of which suitable arrangements are made for taking the sweet or plunge bath; or for receiving douche when required." The Hotel is well kept, which with a number of comfortable cabins affords accommodations for about 175 persons. From the Hot Springs we proceed to Calahan's, 20 miles, from thence to the White Sulphur, in Greenbrier County, 15 miles. This is the most celebrated watering-place in Virginia. "It is situated on the western declivity of the Alleghany Mountain, some 6 or 8 miles from the summit, and 35 miles southwest of the Hot Springs, in an extensive and beautiful valley. Nature has made this one of the most enchanting spots in the mountains of Virginia. The lawn and walks cover perhaps 50 acres. A short distance from the Spring are the hotel, the dining-hall, and the ball-room: the rest of the ground is principally occupied with cabins and cottages. These are in rows, one story high, built of wood, brick, and hewed logs. These beautiful rows of buildings are designated South Carolina Row, Virginia Row, Alabama Row, Louisiana Row, Paradise Row, Baltimore Row, &c. "The principal spring yields about 18 gallons per minute; and it is a remarkable fact that this quantity is not perceptibly increased or diminished during the longest spells of wet or dry weather; while other bold springs of the country have failed during the long droughts of the summer, this has invariably observed the even tenor of its way. There is no discoloration of the water during long wet spells, or other evidences that it becomes blended with common water percolating through the earth. The quantity and temperature of this spring being uniform under all circumstances, gives a confidence, which experience in its use has verified, of its uniform strength and efficiency. "The present proprietor of this property came into possession of it in the year 1808, but did not personally undertake its improvement until the summer of 1818. Before this period, the buildings for the accommodation of visiters, although sufficient for the number of persons that then resorted to the place, were exceedingly rude, being altogether small wooden huts. The interest and enterprise of the proprietor, soon led him into a different and more appropriate system of improvement, and from small beginnings he has gone on, progressing in the rapid ratio of demand, until, from the 'tent' accommodations in 1779, and the 'log-cabin' in 1784, the place now, both in elegance and extent, exhibits the appearance of a neat and flourishing village, affording comfortable and convenient accommodations, (including the surrounding hotels,) for from twelve to fifteen hundred persons." For a full account of the White Sulphur Springs, we refer the reader to a work written by Dr. Moorman, from which we have taken the liberty of extracting one or two paragraphs. The White Sulphur Water has been analyzed by Professor Rogers, and the result of his examination is as follows:— "Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches of White Sulphur Water, weighed, after being dried at 212°; 65.54 grains. Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated as perfectly free from water. Sulphate of lime, 31.680 grains. Sulphate of magnesia, 8.241 " Sulphate of soda, 4.050 " Carbonate of lime, 1.530 " Carbonate of magnesia, 0.506 " Chloride of magnesium, 0.071 " Chloride of calcium, 0.010 " Chloride of sodium, 0.226 " Protosulphate of iron, 0.069 " Sulphate of alumine, 0.012 " Earthy phosphates, a trace. Azotized organic matter blended with a large proportion of sulphur, about 5 grains. Iodine combined with sodium or magnesium. Volume of each of the gases in a free state, contained in 100 cubic inches. Sulphuretted hydrogen, 0.66 to 1.30 cubic inches. Nitrogen, 1.88 " " Oxygen, 0.19 " " Carbonic acid, 3.67 " " "The White Sulphur Water is peculiarly adapted to chronic affections of the organic system. "It is highly beneficial in diseases of the stomach, liver, spleen, kidneys, bladder,—some derangements of the nervous system,—female disorders,—and scrofula, neuralgia, and rheumatism." Nine miles west of the White Sulphur Springs is Lewisburg, the next place on our route. This is the county seat of Greenbrier, a flourishing town, and the most important in this region of country. The Court of Appeals holds its summer session in this place. BLUE SULPHUR SPRINGS. Thirteen miles west of Lewisburg and in the same county are the Blue Sulphur Springs; this is also a popular watering- place. There are considerable improvements here, and the situation is one of great natural beauty. The water tastes somewhat like that of the White Sulphur. The analysis of this water, by Professor Rogers, is as follows:— Solid Ingredients. Sulphate of lime, Sulphate of magnesia, Sulphate of soda, Carbonate of lime, Carbonate of magnesia, Chloride of magnesium, Chloride of sodium, Chloride of calcium, Hydrosulphate of sodium and magnesium, Oxide of iron, existing as protosulphate, Iodine, Sulphur, Organic matters, Gaseous ingredients, Sulphuretted hydrogen, Carbonic acid, Oxygen, Nitrogen. "The Spring is a bold one, furnishing fifteen gallons of water to the minute. There is a great deal of red; white, black, and other deposit from the water. In female diseases this water is superior to many others." Three hundred persons can be accommodated at the Blue Sulphur. SWEET SPRINGS. In the county of Monroe, in one of the most beautiful valleys by nature in Western Virginia, seventeen miles southeast of the White Sulphur, are the Sweet Springs. The improvements here are extensive and comfortable, but not so handsome as some of the other watering-places. Dr. Bell, in his work on Baths and Mineral Waters, describes the medicinal properties of these waters as follows: "The water of the spring rises into a large cylindrical reservoir, from opposite sides of which it flows out by small pipes; one conveying water to the bath for the men, the other to that for the ladies. The men's bath is of a quadrangular form, surrounded by a wall, and open at the top. It is of tolerable extent and clear—the bottom being of gravel, and the water constantly flowing in, and as constantly passing out, after it reaches a certain height. "The temperature of the Sweet Spring is 73° Fahrenheit, the same as that which, in England, by a strange blunder, is called Bristol Hot Well. There is considerable resemblance between the two in other respects, as well in the evolution of carbonic acid, as in the earthy and saline matters held in solution. In the Virginia Spring, however, iron has been detected, whereas the Bristol Hot Well has none in its composition. "One quart of this water by Rowelle's analysis contains:— Saline substances in general, 12 to 15 grains, Earthy substances, 18 " 24 " Iron, ½ " 1 grain. "The saline substances are; sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, and muriate of lime, with a little sulphate of lime. The earthy matters consist of sulphate of lime, a small portion of carbonate of magnesia and lime, with a small portion of silicious earth. "This water is serviceable in dyspepsia, dysentery, diarrhœa, cough, and all calculous and nephritic complaints." The following is from a writer who describes a morning's ride from the White Sulphur to the Sweet Springs: "We left the White Sulphur long before the inhabitants of Paradise Row were stirring, and in a little while our dapples were winding their way through some of the finest scenery romance or poetry had ever pictured. Over a smooth beaten road, which seemed to have been carved through the mountains, like the pass of Mount Athos, we went on, with woodland steeps on each side of us, and afar for many miles in front, we had a refreshing perspective in the high green hills. Occasionally, in coming to a turn in the road, some new wonder would open before us. At one time we were bordered on each hand by a rocky palisade of some hundred feet in height. And again, where the road was more narrow, we passed under natural arbours, formed by the meeting of the tops of the bending trees from each side of the way, and where the laurel was twining its own laurels on the branches. "A ride of ten miles brought us to Crow's, with a relish for breakfast, or anything else that might be offered us. "This is the place where so many excursions are made from the Springs, for dinner parties and picnics. The tavern stands on the corner of the road at the foot of a mountain, and the sign-board swings out in front, after the manner of Nicholas Vedder of old, and many a Rip Van Winkle can be found in the whereabouts, who knows the legends of the neighbourhood." Leaving Crow's, he continues:—"We left the picturesque behind us, and for the next six miles of our journey, we passed through a more cultivated country, with many large fields of waving wheat tops and corn blade. Within a mile or two of the Sweet, we came to what is called the Red Spring, an old dilapidated building, gray with age, and all its windows shattered. "Before 12 o'clock we entered the smiling valley of the Sweet Springs. Whoever comes to the mountains, should make a visit to the Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much of the scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole place is redolent of life and animation, particularly at a time when thronging with company." The accommodations at this place are sufficient for about 400 persons. RED SPRINGS. One mile nearer the White Sulphur are the Red Springs, or Sweet Chalybeate. This place has of late years been acquiring considerable notoriety. About 200 persons can be comfortably accommodated here. "The waters are said to be good in neuralgia, and in rheumatic complaints. There are two springs here, the one near the hotel, essentially the same with the Sweet Springs, the other containing a larger quantity of iron, which being deposited about the spring in the form of red precipitate, has given the name of Red Spring. Professor Rogers' analysis of this water gives:— "1st. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed, after being greatly dried at 112°, 40.76. "A portion of this is combined water. "2d. Quantity of each solid ingredient estimated as perfectly free from water:— In 100 cubic inches. Sulphate of lime, 14.233 Sulphate of magnesia, 3.107 Sulphate of soda, 1.400 Carbonate of lime, 1.166 Chloride of sodium, 0.037 Chloride of magnesium, 0.680 Chloride of calcium, 0.010 Sesquioxide of iron, 0.320 Organic matter in small quantities. Iodine, a mere trace. "The iron is no doubt dissolved in the water as a carbonate. "3d. Volume of each of the gases contained in a free state, in 100 cubic inches of water:— Carbonic acid, 46.10 cubic inches. Nitrogen, 2.57 " " Oxygen, .20 " " Sulphuretted hydrogen, a trace, too small to be mentioned. "4th. Composition of 100 inches of the mixed gases rising in bubbles in the Spring:— Nitrogen, 62.5 Carbonic acid, 37.5 "The temperature of the Red Spring is from 77° to 80° Fahrenheit." SALT SULPHUR SPRINGS. In the County of Monroe, twenty-six miles southwest from the White Sulphur, are the Salt Sulphur Springs; they are two miles from Union, the county seat. From a pamphlet written by Dr. Mütter of Philadelphia, we copy the following account of these Springs: "The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, are situated in the county of Monroe, in 37½° north latitude, 5° longitude west of Philadelphia, and at an elevation of about 1400 feet above tide water. All the springs are situated on 'Indian Creek,' a small limestone stream, which rises in a valley a few hundred yards above the Old or Sweet Spring, and after pursuing its 'devious way' for about 23 miles in a southwest direction, finally empties into New River, in Monroe County. It derives its name from the circumstance of the Indians, who, in former times were in the habit of entering the valley of Virginia from Kentucky and Ohio, almost invariably making it their 'Camping Stream.' Their graves, along with other traces of their frequent resort to this particular spot, are occasionally met with at the present day. "The Salt Sulphur is hemmed in on every side by mountains. To the south and east, in full view, and about 10 miles distant, is Peters Mountain; due north, and about 14 miles distant, is a low spur of the Alleghany; and west, it is bounded by Swope's Mountain, at or near the base of which, are the two principal springs. "It appears from the statement of some of the 'oldest inhabitants,' that the Old or Sweet Spring was discovered in 1802 or 1803 by Alexander Hutchinson, Esq., who was engaged in boring for salt along Indian Creek. For several years it enjoyed much celebrity, and was annually the resort of a large company. "The house occupied as the hotel, and several of the old cabins, are still standing. The opening of the Salt Sulphur Spring, the medical properties of which are so much more strongly marked, and the erection of commodious buildings near it, soon destroyed the fame of the Sweet, the water of which at the present time is used almost exclusively for the baths, although there are some individuals who still prefer it to that of either the Salt or New Spring. To gratify such, and at the same time to test the value of the water, the enterprising proprietors, in the summer of 1839, caused the spring to be deepened and thoroughly repaired. At present it is enclosed in a white marble reservoir, two feet square by two feet four inches in depth, over which is erected a neat wooden edifice, of an order 'sui generis.' In taste, smell, colour, and constituents, it closely resembles the Salt Spring, but is much more feeble as a remedial agent, which is to be attributed to its containing a smaller quantity of the active principles common to both. "The second spring, or the Salt Sulphur proper, was discovered in 1805, by Erwin Benson, Esq. He was induced to believe that either sulphur or salt might be found in considerable quantities at the spot now occupied by the spring, from the fact of its being the favourite 'lick,' of immense herds of buffalo and deer. Under this impression he began boring, and penetrated but a short distance below the surface, when he struck the vein of sulphur water, now constituting the spring. Like the old, this spring is enclosed in a marble reservoir, two feet square, and about two feet ten inches deep, but from the boldness of its sources, it is probable, that this spring will be enlarged. It is protected from the influence of the weather; by a neat and appropriate edifice, furnished with seats. The water possesses all the sensible properties of the sulphur waters in general; its odour, for instance, is very like that of a 'tolerable egg,' and may, in certain states of the atmosphere, be perceived at some distance from the spring, and in taste it is cousin-german to a strong solution of Epsom salts and magnesia. In a short time, however, strange to say, these disagreeable properties are either not observed, or become on the other hand, attractive; indeed, there is hardly an instance of an individual's retaining his original repugnance to them longer than three or four days, and some there are, who become so excessively fond of the water, as to give it the preference over any other liquid. Like most of the sulphurous, this water is perfectly transparent, and deposits a whitish sediment composed of its various saline ingredients mingled with sulphur. It is also for the most part placid; occasionally, however, it is disturbed by a bubble of gas which steals slowly to the surface, where it either explodes with a timid and dimpling smack, or is eagerly caught up by some careworn and almost world-weary invalid, as a gem from the treasury of Hygeia!" Analysis of the Salt Sulphur Springs, by Professor Rogers "Temperature variable from 49° to 56°. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed after being dried at 212°, 81.41 grains. Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated as perfectly free from water. 1.Sulphate of lime, 36.755 grains. 2.Sulphate of magnesia, 7.883 " 3.Sulphate of soda, 9.682 " 4.Carbonate of lime, 4.445 " 5.Carbonate of magnesia, 1.434 " 6.Chloride of magnesium, 0.116 " 7.Chloride of sodium, 0.683 " 8.Chloride of calcium, 0.025 " 9.Peroxide of iron derived from protosulphate, 0.042 " 10.An azotized organic matter blended with sulphur, about, .004 " 11.Earthy phosphates, a trace. 12.Iodine, a trace. Volume of each of the gases, contained in a free state, 100 cubic inches. Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 1.10 to 1.50 cubic inches. Nitrogen, 2.05 " " Oxygen, 0.27 " " Carbonic acid, 5.75 " " "I enclose you a list of the ingredients in the Salt Sulphur water, which applies to the New as well as the Old Spring; the former having rather a smaller amount of saline matter in general, though in some ingredients surpassing the other. It has been very minutely analyzed, and is the first of all the waters in which I was able to detect traces of iodine, which it contains in a larger amount than the Old Spring, and, indeed, most of the other waters in which I have been so fortunate as to discover this mineral. Diseases to which the Salt Sulphur is applicable. "Chronic diseases of the brain, neuralgia, nervous diseases, chronic diseases of the chest, disease of the heart, chronic diseases of the abdominal viscera, hepatic affections, chronic splenitis, chronic gastric irritation, gastralgia, or nervous dyspepsia, pyrosis, or water brash, chronic irritation of the bowels, constipation, hemorrhoids, chronic diseases of the urinary organs, chronic diseases of the genitals, chronic rheumatism and gout, mercurial rheumatism, periostitis and inflammation of the bones, chronic diseases of the skin, &c." RED SULPHUR SPRINGS. The Red Sulphur Springs are situated in the County of Monroe, 43 miles southwest of the White Sulphur, and 17 miles west of the Salt Sulphur. The improvements at this place are very handsome, and afford accommodation for three hundred and fifty persons. The following is from a pamphlet, written by Dr. Hunt of Washington City: "The Red Sulphur Spring is situated in latitude 37° 37', about 20 miles southwest of Union, which is the seat of justice for the county. The approach to the village is beautifully romantic and picturesque. Wending his way around a high mountain, the weary traveller is for a moment charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden view of his resting-place, some hundreds of feet immediately beneath him. Continuing the circuitous descent, he at length reaches a ravine, which conducts him, after a few rugged steps, to the entrance of a verdant glen, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The south end of this enchanting vale, which is the widest portion of it, is about 200 feet in width. Its course is nearly north for about 150 yards, when it begins gradually to contract, and changes its direction to the northwest and west, until it terminates in a narrow point. This beautiful secluded Tempe is the chosen site of the village. The northwest portion is occupied by stables, carriage-houses, and shops of various sorts; the southern portion, just at the base of the east and west mountains, is that upon which stand the various edifices for the accommodation of visiters. "These buildings are spacious and conveniently arranged, the servants are prompt and obedient, and the 'table d'hote' is abundantly supplied with every variety of viands that can tempt the appetite. The promenades, which are neatly enclosed by a white railing, are beautifully embellished, and shaded from the midday sun by indigenies of the forest,— the large, umbrageous sugar maple. The spring is situated at the southwest point of the valley, and the water is collected into two white marble fountains, over which is thrown a substantial cover. "At the distance of a few hundred yards from the Red Sulphur Spring, up the south ravine, there is another spring, supposed to be a chalybeate, of a singular character. "In a conversation with Mr. Harvey, a plain, honest, and sensible man, who was the former proprietor of the Red Sulphur Spring, I gathered the following facts, which I give in his own words. He stated, 'That he had lived at and about the place for upwards of forty-three years. The spring was first visited by the neighbours for itch, sore legs, and other inveterate diseases of the skin, which were always cured by drinking the water, and rubbing the parts affected with the muddy deposit. About thirty-six years ago, Dr. John Cabell, of Lynchburg, Va., was the first person who visited the spring for a cough and disease of the throat, attended with chills and fevers. He remained here several weeks, and returned home much better. The next season several other persons came, with cough and every appearance of consumption. Afterwards, the number of visiters afflicted with this disease increased every year. There are many persons now living, within my knowledge (said Mr. Harvey), and enjoying excellent health, who visited this spring many years ago, to all appearance in the last stage of consumption. The visiters who were most benefited by the water remained here five or six weeks, confined themselves to a diet of rye mush and milk, and were industrious in rising early, drinking the water, and taking exercise. Others, who indulged themselves in eating, sleeping late in the morning, and lounging about during the day, derived but little advantage from the use of the water; and generally returned home dissatisfied. The cold plunging or shock bath, was used in those days with decided advantage. I never knew a case injured by the use of the cold bath. Many cases of dropsy visited the spring, and I never knew an instance where they were not relieved by the use of the water. One of my neighbours was cured many years ago by the use of this water, and now enjoys excellent health. I have known many persons affected with complaints of the liver and bowels, completely relieved by the Red Sulphur water. From the first of May to the middle of November is the proper time for using the water to advantage, but I think it strongest, in its various virtues, during the months of September and October.' "The following was presented to me by Dr. Saunders, the resident physician, as an analysis of the Red Sulphur water, made at the spring by Professor Rogers, the geologist of Virginia; but it certainly does not satisfactorily account for the wonderful effects of the water. Temperature of the Spring, 54° Fahr. Gaseous contents in an imperial gallon. Sulphuretted hydrogen, 4.54 cubic inches. Carbonic acid, 8.75 " " Nitrogen, 4.25 " " "Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, grains 1.25, consisting of sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and muriate of soda. Besides these ingredients the water contains, in considerable quantity, a peculiar organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, is deposited on the sides of the spring, and seems to increase by a species of organic growth. "The Red Sulphur water is decidedly sedative in its effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, tranquillizes irritation, and reduces the frequency of the pulse in the most astonishing manner. "It is not uncommon for persons to arrive at the spring, who have not been able to sleep during the night, even with the aid of opium, and who, after drinking the water for a few days, find their nervous irritation so soothed and allayed, that no other anodyne is required to procure them full repose for the night. "This water has been considered peculiarly adapted to the cure of pulmonary diseases, and it is true that it has a most beneficial influence in most cases of this disease; but its good effects equally extend to all cases of subacute inflammation, whether seated in the stomach, liver, spleen, intestines, kidneys, or bladder, and most particularly in the mucous membrane. In fact, nature never yet gave to man a remedy capable of more extensive application, nor better calculated to relieve a larger class of diseases. "The late venerable Dr. R. H. Bradford, of Virginia, who practised medicine for many years at the Red Sulphur, in a communication on the subject of the water, remarks—'The effect of this water in reducing the frequency of the pulse, is one of the numerous, singular, and powerful properties belonging to it. It lessens arterial action to such a degree, that it seldom fails to remove fever, difficulty of breathing, and pain in the chest. When the patient is restricted to a proper regimen, this water may be taken with greater advantage in all pulmonary cases, than any other remedy I have ever employed for that purpose. It is also an important remedy in enlarged liver and spleen, and in diseases of the mucous membrane generally.' "The water of the Red Sulphur seems to act by soothing irritation, lessening the frequency of the pulse, and by subduing the inflammation of the tissues in contact with the tubercles, and thereby rendering the tubercles harmless; and also by suspending that tendency of the system to generate or deposit tuberculous matter. "The Red Sulphur water may be used with the most decided benefit in obstinate cases of bowel complaint, gleet, leucorrhœa, catarrh of the bladder, and uterine derangement." ROUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. The other route from Washington City to the Virginia Springs is by railroad to Harper's Ferry, 104 miles. Stopping at this place, the traveller has an opportunity of viewing the "Passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge," which, says Mr. Jefferson, "is one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land; on your right up comes the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; in the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time; that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge Mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that, continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the distant finishing which Nature has given to the picture is of a very different character; it is a true contrast to the foreground; it is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous; for the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the clefts, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult warring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm below. There the eye ultimately composes itself, and that way, too, the road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. The scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic, yet here, as in the neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.' "From Harper's Ferry, we take the cars to Charlestown, 10 miles. Leaving the cars at this place, an opportunity is afforded of visiting SHANNONDALE SPRINGS, "Another of the celebrated watering-places of Virginia. "They are in Jefferson County, five miles south from Charlestown, on an eminence of the Shenandoah; in a healthy and delightful region. The reputation of the water is so well established, that it is deemed scarcely necessary to mention its qualities. It is sent for and taken to New York, Charleston, and other distant places. The analysis of the late Dr. De Butts, in 1821, classed the principal fountain with the saline chalybeates,—a combination of the most valuable description in the whole range of mineral waters, and closely resembling those of the celebrated Bedford, in composition, operation, and efficacy. There is also a highly valuable sulphur spring in the vicinity. Apart from the merits of the waters, Shannondale is remarkable for the sublime and beautiful natural scenery, which is said to surpass Bath and Bristol in England, and that of Saratoga and Ballston in New York." Returning to Charlestown, we again take the cars for Winchester, 22 miles. This is a very flourishing town, and the largest in the valley of Virginia. Here ends railroad travelling on this route. Twenty-two miles west from this place, in Hampshire County, are CAPON SPRINGS. The following account of these springs is copied from an advertisement of June, 1850. "The high reputation of the waters of the 'Capon Spring' is not permanently established, but is yearly increasing, particularly in cases of dyspepsia, general debility, &c. "Its convenience of access renders it an available point for invalids, or persons who are not disposed to undergo the fatigues of a long journey, over rough and dusty roads, in the heat of summer. Being near the route to the White Sulphur, in Greenbrier, it will be a delightful resting-place for persons visiting those celebrated springs. The well- attested, cool, dry mountain atmosphere of 'Capon;' the fine sulphur and chalybeate waters in its immediate vicinity; its neighbouring trout streams and river fishing; its shaded walks and drives, (now being constructed,) with the usual amusements of a mountain watering-place, impart to it some of its attractions and claims on the public, and fully establishes it as one of the most agreeable as well as accessible summer retreats in this country, either for the seekers of health or pleasure." This watering-place not being on the main valley route, we return to Winchester. Six miles north of this place are JORDAN'S WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. This watering-place has lately come into notice, and is growing in popular favour. The water is said to resemble the celebrated White Sulphur Spring of Greenbrier. Again returning to Winchester, we proceed on our way upon the macadamized road up the beautiful valley of Virginia to Newtown, 8 miles, Strasburg, 10 miles, Woodstock, 11½ miles. Eighteen miles from this, in Shenandoah County, are the ORKNEY, OR YELLOW SPRINGS. "These waters are composed of several lively springs, and are strongly chalybeate. Everything the water passes through, or over, is beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe or moss. The use of this water is found beneficial for the cure of several complaints. A free use of this water acts as a most powerful cathartic, as does also a small quantity of the fringe, or moss mixed with common water." Returning to Woodstock, we once more take the macadamized road, to Mount Jackson, 13 miles, Newmarket, 7 miles, Spartapolis, 6½ miles, Harrisonburg, 11 miles. Twelve miles from this place is RAWLEY'S SPRING. The following account of this watering-place is given by Dr. Moorman, in his work on the White Sulphur Springs. "Rawley's Spring is situated on the southern slope of the North Mountain, in the county of Rockingham, 12 miles northwest from Harrisonburg, and about 120 miles northeast from the White Sulphur. The Rawley water is a strong and pure chalybeate, and well adapted to cases requiring such a tonic. "The writer has had some experience in the use of this water, and for many years has been in the habit of occasionally directing its use in cases to which it is applicable. As a pure iron tonic, it deserves to stand at the very head of that class of remedies. "In that class of female affections, dependent upon debility or want of tone in the uterine system, this water is an exceedingly valuable remedy. Its salutary effects in cases of this description are often as remarkable as they are gratifying, restoring the functions of the debilitated organ, and imparting vigour and health to the whole system." From Harrisonburg we proceed to Mount Crawford, 8 miles, Mount Sidney, 7 miles, thence to Staunton, 10 miles. Leaving the macadamized road at Harrisonburg, visiters to the springs frequently travel, via the Augusta Springs, to the Warm Springs, 60 miles, thereby shortening the distance about 14 miles. Another route, via Staunton, to the springs, is to Lexington, 35 miles. This is the prettiest town in the valley of Virginia. Here are located Washington College and the "Virginia Military Institute," both flourishing institutions. The Natural Bridge is 15 miles southwest of Lexington; and 17 miles west of Lexington are the ROCKBRIDGE ALUM SPRINGS. On the stage road to the Bath Alum and the Warm Springs,...