community of •> MCPrHANDlS^ ' Scalawags, ^^enegades, ^ VSii''« "'ill « — '""^ -^ y^ ^ - Discharged Soldiers an^ ^Predestined Stinkers"? A History of Northern Jackson Hole and Yellowstone's Influence 1872 - 1920 BY Kenneth & Lenore L. L, Diem A- A. Dean and Jean M. Larsen Yellowstone Park Collection F 767 .T28 D53 1998 BRIGHAMYOUNGUNIVERSITY 3 1197 22292 3507 Community "A oj scauwags, Renegades, Discharged Soldiers an^ Predestined Stinkers'? A History of Northern Jackson Hole and Yellowstone's Influence 1872 - 1920 BY Kenneth & Lenore Diem L. L. Published by Grand Teton Natural History Association IN Cooperation with the University of Wyoming/ National Park Service Research Center 1998, Published by Grand Teton Natural History Association, WY P.O. Box 170, Moose, 83012 Project coordinated by Sharlene Milligan Edited by Debra Beck Designed by Carole Thickstun, Ormsby and Thickstun Design Printing coordinated by Scott Kerby, Precision Litho WY © Kenneth L. and Lenore L. Diem, Laramie, ISBN 0'931895-53'7 Library ofCongress Catalog Card Number: 98-75034 Title excerpted from the diary ofDr.John K. Mitchell, dated between 1896 and 1900. The title ofthe book appeared in theJuly 15 andJuly 29, 1965 editions ofthe Jackson Hole Guide. UPB . ^^ Table of Contents Preface V . . . . The Setting ....1 Early Travel Routes: Products ofthe Landscape ............ ....5 Yellowstone Hogged the Show: No Railroad forJackson Hole ....9 Roads: The Struggle to Connect With the Outside World. ... ...15 STUMPS TO AUTOMOBILES: THE NEGLECTED YELLOWSTONE ROAD ...16 THE IDAHO CONNECTION ...32 Conant Pass ..32 Marysville Road ..38 Reclamation Road ..41 THE MILITARY GETS INTO THE ACT ..48 COMMUNICATING WITH SOUTHERN NEIGHBORS ..55 Teton Pass Road ..59 Gros Ventre and Hoback Roads ..61 All Gravel and No Pay ...63 Law and Lawlessness ...67 , "BORDER PIRATES" FORCED DECISIONS: EVOLUTION OF SOUTHERN SOLDIER STATIONS ...67 GREEN SOLDIERS, GREEN HORSES AND GREEN WOOD FIREPLACES: OPERATIONS OF SOUTHERN SOLDIER STATIONS ...79 THE LAW DOES NOT APPLYTO US ...91 The"Ivory Merchants" Get Organized ...97 Slippery"Coonskin,""Mink Skin,""Beaver Tooth" Charlie: Master ofthe Art of Deception. ..119 Wyoming's Contribution to Idaho 133 A Man for All Seasons, Benjamin D. Sheffield 145 . . References Cited 175 Figure Credits 193 111 Digitized by tiie Internet Arciiive 2013 in littp://arcliive.org/details/communityofscalaOOdiem ^^ Preface As EMPLOYEES IN YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL Forest, Jackson, WY; Michael P. Musick, Military Park, our visits toJackson Hole began as early as 1949. Archivist, National Archives, Washington, DC; Alvin Since 1959, we have seasonally lived and worked in Clarence Nichols, Ashton, ID;James Rush, Civil Branch northern Jackson Hole during some 30 years while Archivist, National Archives, Washington, DC; Glan numerous and even dramatic changes took place there. Sharp, Ashton, ID; Benjamin and Pamela Sheffield, Jr., Also, in our research, connected with writing A Tale of Ennis, MT; Tom Tankersley Assistant Chief of Dough Gods, Bear Grease, Cantaloupe and Sucker Oil, we had Interpretive Operations, Yellowstone National Park, accumulated considerable historical information about Yellowstone Park, WY; Gary Taylor, Ashton, ID; and early northern Jackson Hole. The more we learned, the Beryl Wolff, Moran, WY. more there appeared to be a need for a more accurate Also, important assistance was provided by:Joan identification, description and documentation ofthe very Donnelly Shoshone National Forest, Cody WY; Patty early historical events and features of that area prior to Gross, Council Valley Library Council, ID;James Muhn, 1920. We felt that such information would be especially Land Law Historian, Bureau of Land Management, useful for a better understanding of the nature, origin Denver, CO; Cheryl Oakes, Librarian, Forest History and evolution ofevents in northernJackson Hole follow- Society Durham, NC; Lt. Gordon Ogden, Coos County ing that period. Therefore, we made a sincere effort to Sheriff's Office, Coquille, OR; James Peaco, Park construct a detailed history ofnorthernjackson Hole, its Photographer, Yellowstone National Park, Yellowstone isolation and the many impacts that influenced its Park, WY; William Puckett, Historian,Targhee National growth. Elaboration of this theme appears in the chap- Forest, St. Anthony ID; Brit Storey Senior Historian, ter,"The Setting." Bureau of Reclamation, Denver, CO; Florence Wallace, For a complete listing and credit of the sources Bureau of Reclamation, Boise, ID; Dala Walton, Bureau and locations ofreferences and figures utilized, the read- ofReclamation, Burley ID; Doris Whithorn, Livingston, er is urged to consult the"References Cited" and"Figure MT; and Beverley Whitman and Barbara Zafft, librari- Credits" at the end ofthis publication. Also, every quo- ans, Research Library Yellowstone National Park, WY. ration is verbatim, including all spelling and grammar Yellowstone Park, errors. In addition, our liberal use ofquotes was done to Access to invaluable archival collections was gen- provide the reader with the opportunity to formulate a erously provided by the Bandon Historical Society better, as well as more enjoyable understanding of the Bandon, OR; the Curry County Historical Society Gold thoughts and opinions expressed by the men and women Beach, OR; the Jackson Hole Historical Society and ofthe 1872-1920 era. Museum,Jackson, WY; the NationalArchives in Denver, We are particularlygrateful to the followingindi- CO, Washington, DC and Yellowstone National Park, viduals for their enthusiasm and willingness to share Yellowstone Park, WY; the Park County Museum, their personal knowledge with us: James and Eunice Livingston, MT; the Wyoming State Archives, Braman, Moran, WY;Joan Howard, Archivist, National Cheyenne, WY; and the University of Wyoming Archives and Record Center, Rocky Mountain Region, American Heritage Center, Laramie, WY. The holdings Denver, CO; Wayne Jenkins, Targhee National Forest, and research space of many libraries were provided and Ashton, ID; Elaine Mercill, Bridger-Teton National we are very appreciative for that invaluable assistance. For his outstanding critical review ofour manu- script, we especially thank Lee Whittlesey, Historical Archivist, Yellowstone National Park, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, as well as Debra Beck, Consultant, Laramie, Wyoming, for her very helpful editorial suggestions. Lastly, we wish to thank the University of Wyoming/National Park Service Research Center for its support of our publication and especially for providing us with the excellent stenographic assistance of Karen Noland. Kenneth and Lenore Diem The Setting Situated along the eastern base of the Range. Their irregular east face, with its sharp and pre- Teton Range,Jackson Hole, some 60 miles long cipitous ridges rises abruptly for as much as 7,000 feet and 12 miles wide, is completely encircled by spectacu- above the valley floor. Also, the east slope is endowed lar and formidable mountains. Initially, this valley was with numerous glacial moraines and lakes. By contrast, calledJackson's Hole in 1829 after DavidJackson, a this range's western slopes are relatively gentle and partner in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. To early broad as they descend to the Tecon Basin (Love and trappers, certain valleys having a special abundance of Reed, 1971). wildlife were often designated as"holes" (Mattes, 1962). Crossing the southern end ofthe Teton Range is Contemporary usage shortened the name toJackson the lower, more eroded, southeast-northwest aligned Hole. Snake River Range. This range's long, parallel system of The first presidential view ofthe Grand Teton ridges makes it quite different than the Teton Range region was described in 1883 by General Michael (Love and Reed, 1971). Sheridan, brother ofGeneral Phil Sheridan (Cramton, To the east and northeast ofthe Snake River Range 1932): are the Hoback Range, the Gros Venirre Range and the Washakie Range, respectively. The more western hill "Oj the beauty andgrandeur ofthis scenery Sheridan and areas ofthe Washakie Range are known as the southern his stajjwere aware, and they therefore maneuvered that Mt. Leidy Highlands and the northerly Pinyon Peak thepresident and otherguests should reach the summit Highlands. The majority ofthese mountain ranges, first. In consequence, theglorious spectacle ofthe Teton especially the Gros Ventre Range, have randomly ori- Basin,from one ofthe most advantageous points ofview, ented, irregular and steep ridges with numerous cliff, hurst on theirgaze with all the added effect ofcomplete badland, mudflow and landslide areas (Love and Reed, surprise. ... Nothing in mountam scenery the world over 1971). can surpass this in beauty andgrandeur. It may he doubt- Completing the mountain encirclement ofJackson ed ifeven its equal exists." Hole is the Yellowstone Volcanic Plateau. Extensive lava flows from that area have buried northern portions In 1900,Judge Smith ofthe Kansas City Court of ofthe Teton Range. Portions ofthese lava flows are Appeals must have felt the same way when he made his very recent and are closely associated with extensive hot remarks about the proposed extension ofYellowstone springsjust north ofthe Flagg Ranch in the Crawfish National Park (Smith,J.L., 1900):"It would bring into and Polecat Creek drainages of Yellowstone National the Park some ofthe grandest and most attractive Park (Love and Reed, 1971). scenery on the continent." He goes on to say that a Typically, the coniferous forests ofthese mountain retired U.S. Army officer who made a trip to ranges surroundingJackson Hole extend to an elevation Switzerland"declared that in grandeur and sublimity of 10,500 feet. Thick stands oftrees, extensive stands of there was nothing in Swiss Alpine scenery comparable fallen timber and sizeable burnt forest areas were signif- to it." icant obstacles to human travel. In his 1863 travels in Historically,Jackson Hole's unique physiography Jackson Hole, DeLacy (1876) reported extensive forest has always been its most important asset (Fig. 1). On fires and smoke. A large area inJackson Hole was the west are Wyoming's youngest mountains, the Teton burnt over in 1879 (Van Derveer, ca 1939). Gruell The Setting Table 1. Major passes or breaks through the rugged mountain landscape surroundingJackson Hole. Mountain Range Elevation in Feet Teton Range Teton Pass 8,431 Conant Pass (Jackass Pass) 8,520 Snake River and Hoback Ranges Snake River Canyon-Upstream Entrance 5,848 Hoback and Gros Ventre Ranges Hoback Rim 8,100 Gros Ventre and Washakie Ranges Union Pass 9,210 Lincoln Pass 9,245 Washakie andAbsaroka Ranges Togwotee Pass 9,554 Washakie Range Two Ocean Pass 8,200 Yellowstone Volcanic Plateau Lewis River Divide 8,500 Yellowstone Volcanic Plateau -Teton Range Cascade-Falls River Divide 7,326 (1980) believed the frequency offorest fires was highest The valley floor ofJackson Hole varies in elevation in the 1840's, 1870's and 1880s. The impact ofthese from 5,848 feet in the south to 6,883 feet at the South forest fire burns sometimes was a delayed phenomenon. Entrance ofYellowstone Park. The valley's timbered Years after a burn, dense stands ofyoung trees appear; regions are generally confined to glacial moraines and burnt, standing trees begin falling, covering the encroaching from the surrounding mountains. ground with a densejumble oftree trunks. Bradley Sagebrush has generally dominated the areas between (1873) regularly encountered old forest fire burns cov- the stands oftimber. ered by dense stands oftrees. In the northern two-thirds ofthe valley, glacial The topography itselfwas even a more formidable moraines impounded a number ofponds and lakes. barrier for travelers wishing to enter or leaveJackson The largest ofthese, the originalJackson Lake, existed Hole. Human travel has historically utilized some 10 prior to 1908. However, the most dominant hydro- passes, divides and riverways to move through the six graphic feature ofJackson Hole is the Snake River. mountain ranges surroundingJackson Hole (Table 1). This river entersJackson Hole at the South Entrance of Except for the Snake River Canyon route, the average Yellowstone National Park and exits from the south end elevation ofthe nine passes or divides is 8,565 feet. through the Snake River Canyon. The bank full capaci-