A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park A guidebook is not a substitute for mountaineering skill, nor can it make climbing safe for those who do not practice the principles of safety. Inexperienced climbers are urged to avail themselves of the instruction given by the various mountain clubs before trying difficult ascents. REMEMBER TO REGISTER WITH THE PARK RANGERS FALCON™ COVER PHOTO BY BRIAN KENNEDY Tim Hooley atop Mt. Wilbur Strolling up Mt. Altyn in early June. Mt. Wilbur in background CLIMBER’S GUIDE TO Glacier National Park J. Gordon Edwards Robert Megard Contents Foreword.................................................................................................7 Glacier National Park: A Mecca for Mountaineers............................9 Leave No Trace................................................................................... 12 Preface................................................................................................. 17 Classification of Climbs......................................................................20 Registration of Climbers......................................................................21 Routes Among the Peaks.....................................................................22 The Rocks of Glacier Park...................................................................23 Consider These Other Factors............................................................26 Great Photographers............................................................................36 A Chronological History of Climbing................................................37 Acknowledgments...............................................................................53 The Lake McDonald Area...................................................................58 The Livingston Range..........................................................................76 The North Central Area................................................................... 108 The Northern Lewis Range.............................................................. 130 The Many Glacier Area................................................................... 158 The St. Mary Valley Area..................................................................222 The Logan Pass Area.........................................................................274 The Cut Bank Area............................................................................304 The Two Medicine Area....................................................................313 The South Central Area.....................................................................325 Index....................................................................................................343 Selected Literature.............................................................................348 Two thousand vertical feet of class 3 terrain — Brian Kennedy 6 GLACIER NATIONAL PARK Foreword J. Gordon Edwards is the patron saint of climbing in Glacier National Park. He is the focal point around which experience about climbing in this special place has collected. By profession, J. Gordon Edwards is a scientist. By style, he is a naturalist and a teacher. A Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park is a treasury of material opening up not only the high, secret passageways to Glacier’s hidden valleys and cathedral peaks, but shares the wealth of myth and history that have been attached to this special place by the people whose lives have been touched by these high summits. When I reflect on the significance of Gordon Edwards, both principal author and editor of this guide, two strong images come to mind: The first image is of Gordon on a mountain slope, always looking up, attentively studying the rock above for routes, unseen delights, and dangers. The second image is of Gordon, often joined by his wife Alice and daughter Jane in the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn Coffee Shop, surrounded by Glacier enthusiasts. I like to think of it as the Swiftcurrent “cracker barrel” where Glacier news is being discussed. Sometimes Gordon tells stories or offers route information, but more often, he is listening to another’s story about a hike or climb, collecting information about a climb that is new to him, or speculating about a new route. What is important is not who is there, or what is said, but the celebration of the special place—Glacier National Park! J. Gordon Edwards’ love affair with Glacier National Park began in the late 1940s when he took a job as a park ranger-naturalist. Initially, he climbed to collect exotic insects at the mountaintops, but soon it became evident that his enjoyment of climbing was an end in itself. Both his wife Alice and daughter Jane have been lifelong climbing companions. Alice began climbing because she worried less when she came along. But she quickly developed a pleasure for climbing that over the years has included climbing all of the 10,000-foot peaks in the park. Jane began following in the “family footsteps” at about the age of eight. Impressed by the enthusiasm and accomplishments of the Edwards family, many of his park service colleagues encouraged Gordon to compile route descriptions. Descriptions first became available as mimeographed sheets at ranger stations. Year by year, descriptions grew in number until the climber’s guide that was published by the Sierra Club. With passing time, Gordon has become more editor than writer as other climbers, inspired by his enthusiasm and example, have submitted routes FOREWORD for consideration. The guide that exists at this time offers a wide variety of detailed routes, sharing with us the experience of many different types of climbers with varying skill levels and physical abilities. The aim of this guide is to present routes that are interesting to a broad range of climbers. Some of the routes included here are extremely chal­ lenging. But there are also a variety of detailed route descriptions that are less hazardous, but do not just send people up scree slopes. One of the key elements of this guide is that the choice of routes is motivated as much by such factors as hidden cirques, high ridges, hidden animal trails, and fantastic views, as by challenging rock. What is most important to me is the overriding perception that Gordon has brought to the sport of climbing in Glacier National Park. He enjoys the entire mountain environment and attempts to share that broader enthu­ siasm with all of us who seek guidance from this climbing guide. He guides our hearts as well as our hands and feet. My own personal understanding and appreciation of Glacier has been profoundly molded by J. Gordon Ed­ wards’ perception of Glacier. In this edition, there are many who deserve to be recognized for their efforts in the completion of the guide. But most important to Gordon, has been the considerable assistance he has received from his daughter, Jane. Glacier National Park is a very special place. The Glacier Park horizon fuels the imagination, inviting the adventuresome spirit to explore beyond the roads and trails, allowing the curious to better know what lies on the horizon. These “shining mountains” have been a sacred place for as long as there has been a human presence along this section of the Continental Divide. A Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park is a chronicle of this very spe­ cial place. Throughout its pages, it gives us the benefit of insights that Gordon Edwards has collected during a good portion of his life. You will enjoy this new edition of A Climber's Guide to Glacier Na­ tional Park. Whether you are reading it to plan out a route for a specific climb, or as a way of passing a dreamy winter evening in an easy chair, let its words caress your imagination like a cool, suggestive breeze. Permit the images to inspire you to explore with Gordon’s guidance. Allow yourself to be drawn into the magic of Glacier National Park. It will touch your life in special ways. Rolf Larson 8