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Title: A Baptist Abroad Travels and Adventures of Europe and all Bible Lands Author: Walter Andrew Whittle Release Date: January 9, 2016 [EBook #50879] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BAPTIST ABROAD *** Produced by Giovanni Fini, Richard Hulse and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive) [i] A BAPTIST ABROAD OR TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN EUROPE AND ALL BIBLE LANDS BY REV. WALTER ANDREW WHITTLE WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY HON. J. L. M. CURRY, LL.D. WITH MAPS AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. “Where rose the mountains, there to him were friends; Where rolled the ocean, thereon was his home; Where a blue sky, and glowing clime, extends, He had the passion and the power to roam; The desert, forest, cavern, breaker’s foam, Were unto him companionship; they spake A mutual language, clearer than the tome Of his land’s tongue, which he would oft forsake For Nature’s page glassed by sunbeams on the lake.” Childe Harold NEW YORK: J. A. HILL & CO., UNION SQUARE, 1890. COPYRIGHT, 1890. By J. A. HILL & COMPANY. All rights reserved. MOTHER [ii] WILL READ THIS BOOK THROUGH TWO PAIRS OF SPECTACLES. ONE PAIR WILL MAGNIFY ITS VIRTUES WHILE THE OTHER WILL DIMINISH ITS DEFECTS. THEREFORE IT IS AFFECTIONATELY AND LOVINGLY DEDICATED TO MOTHER. [iii] INTRODUCTION. Next to seeing a foreign land with one’s own eyes is seeing it through the eyes of an intelligent, appreciative countryman. The word is purposely chosen, because one wishes to know what is observed and thought by a person who has tastes, sympathies and views in common with himself. A thousand things in a strange country are interesting and in different degrees. One studies historically, another socially, another politically, another ecclesiastically, while unfortunately not a few rush pell-mell bringing back the most superficial and indistinct impressions. Some find most satisfaction in architecture, while others have their chiefest enjoyment in sculpture, in painting, in natural scenery, in costumes and customs. No two have precisely the same fancies, and yet an observant, cultivated countryman is more likely to please us by what he likes and describes than is a foreigner whose point of view and whose mental habitudes are so different from our own. What is most pleasing in a book of travels is wide and varied observation, is an account of several countries inhabited by different races and distinguished by marked peculiarities. This volume embraces a wide extent of travel, and includes an account of visits to Great Britain, Switzerland, Italy, Turkey, Greece, Palestine, Egypt, etc. The full table of contents is a little misleading, for the chapters pertaining to Europe are short, and Palestine takes up a considerable portion of the work. The author, avoiding what is dry or didactic, manages to compress into his pages much valuable and trustworthy information. His own religious denomination, naturally and properly, is not overlooked, and from eminent men he has succeeded in obtaining monographs which give interesting facts, drawn from most authentic sources. The portraitures of men, of whom everybody wishes to know more, constitute an interesting feature of the book. The journey was not a mere vacation tour, a hasty gallop to points visited by circular tourists, but it comprised many months of patient toil, nor were the countries seen from the windows of the car of an express train. Lubboch, in his essay on the Pleasures of Travel, says that some think that every one should travel on foot “like Thales, Plato and Pythagoras.” Mr. Whittle is a pedestrian by choice, full of enterprise, activity, courage and enthusiasm, and on foot he deviated often from the beaten paths, and had opportunities for careful examination of objects of interest and for much pleasant and instructive intercourse with the “common people.” With an eye quick to discern what was peculiar, with an unquenchable thirst for knowledge, he combined a cheerful disposition, a ready appreciation of the humorous, and has succeeded in giving the public a volume, every page of which is interesting. Travel, as a means of improvement, of education, of broadening horizon, of getting us out of narrow ruts, can hardly be overestimated. A visit to Europe, Africa and Asia makes objective what was subjective, and gives realism to what was before vaguely in our memories. Some acquaintance with geography, with history, literature, art, enhances the interest and the profit. A young student who had visited Jerusalem was much flattered by a request from Humboldt to call and see him. The savant soon showed that from reading and inquiry he had more knowledge of the city than the youth had acquired by his visit. With some mortification and a little petulance the young man said: “I understood, sir, that you had never visited the Holy City.” “True,” replied Humboldt, “I never have; but I once got ready to go.” Mr. Whittle, with wise forethought, had made preparation for his visit. He knew what he wanted to see, traveled with a purpose, and has so imparted to his readers what he learned and observed that one catches in part the enthusiasm of the traveler. J. L. M. Curry. [iv] [v] [vi] [vii] PREFACE. “Around the World in Eighty Days” has had an extensive circulation, especially in America. The title is striking. Our people like to do things quickly. Many of them would be glad to girdle the globe in forty days. They forget that “what is worth doing at all is worth doing well.” Under the patronage of Tourist Agencies it has become quite fashionable of late to do Europe in three months. These flying trips do perhaps result in some good to the tourist, but they are valuable chiefly to the agencies under which they are made. Traveling is no child’s play. Sight seeing when properly done is hard work, but hard work is the kind of work that pays best in the long run. To see any country aright and understand it correctly one must not merely visit its fashionable watering places, large cities, splendid abbeys and cathedrals, noted art galleries, museums, etc. He must see these things to be sure, but in addition to these he must, in order to get a correct conception, go out into the mountains, into the rural districts, and there study the soil, climate and products of the country. He must commune with the yeomanry the common people, and closely scrutinize their daily life and habits. He must see, as best he can, how climate, political surroundings, education, occupation, and religion affect their character. He must project himself as far as possible into the thoughts and feelings of the people among whom he is traveling. This prepares him to sympathize with them, and to look at things from their standpoint. The traveler is then prepared to reason from cause to effect. He has gotten hold of that golden thread of truth which leads to right conclusions. He is in condition to explain upon correct and philosophical principles the Socialism of France, the Skepticism of Germany, the Nihilism of Russia, and the Pauperism of Turkey. Having under the providence of God been permitted to make an extensive and prolonged trip through the East, I determined from the outset to get out of the beaten tracks of travel. In applying the above-named principles, I walked a thousand miles through different European countries, and rode six hundred miles and more in the saddle through Bible lands. This necessarily gave me a varied experience, and brought me into close contact with every phase of nature and human nature. At times every faculty of mind and heart was stirred to its profoundest depths. I was forced to think. And, lest these thrilling thoughts should slip away from me, I determined “to fasten them in words and chain them in writing.” I agree with Gray that “a few words fixed upon or near the spot are worth a cartload of recollection.” This accounts to some extent for the use of the present tense in the book, and also for the colloquial style in which it is written—it was composed on or near the spot. True, since then it has been carefully revised, re-written and enlarged; but originally it was written “on the spot.” I made these pages my trusted confidant. To them I expressed my “every thought and floating fancy,” and my words formed a true thermometer to my soul. But now I release these pages from all obligations of secrecy. They may tell it in Gath, and withhold it not in Askelon. I propose to take the public into my confidence. “In short, never did ten shillings purchase so much friendship since confidence went first to market, or honesty was set up to sale.” I have carefully excluded all opiates from these pages. Brevity is the only claim I make to wit. I have not attempted to exhaust the subjects treated. My words are intended simply to strike the reader’s thoughts which may interpret further. “If you would be prudent, be brief,” says Southey, “for ‘tis with words as with sunbeams, the more they are condensed the deeper they burn.” “Clarence P. Johnson” was my man “Friday,” and from some of the jokes gotten off at his expense the reader may conclude that he is a “man-eater,” as was that other Friday of Robinson Crusoe fame. But not so. This was his maiden trip out of his native city. Such things happened to him while traveling as would naturally occur with any other youth under the same circumstances. He is a young man of fine spirit and extraordinary business capacity. He will some day be known and felt in the commercial world. It gives me peculiar pleasure to acknowledge my indebtedness to Professor John R. Sampey, D. D., for valuable assistance rendered while preparing this book for the press. I have made free use of a wide range of literature, but trust that in each case due credit has been given to the author. Many of the measurements given were made by myself, others have been taken from reliable sources. While abroad, I made it a special point to study the history and outlook of the Baptists in each of the several countries through which I traveled, and I have not failed to record the result of my observations. But, in order to have Baptist history correctly, authentically, and impartially given, I have secured chapters from eminent men on the Baptists of their several countries. [viii] [ix] [x] W. A. W. [xi] CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. OFF FOR NEW YORK. Preparations—A Prayer and a Benediction—An Impatient Horse and a Run for Eternity—Strange Sceptre and Despotic Sway—Beauty in White Robes— Approaching the Metropolis—Business Heart of the New World—A Bright Face and a Cordial Greeting—An Hour with the President—More for a Shilling and Less for a Pound—A Stranger Dies in the Author’s Arms—Namesake— Prospects of Becoming a Great Man—A Confused College Student—The Hour of Departure—Native Land. Page, 23 CHAPTER II. ON THE HIGH SEAS. A Difficulty with the Officers of the Ship—A Parting Scene—Danger on the Atlantic —A Parallel Drawn—Liberty Enlightening the World—Life on the Ocean Wave —Friends for the Journey—The Ship a Little World—A Clown and his Partner —Birds of a Feather—Whales—Brain Food—Storm at Sea—A Frightened Preacher—Storm Rages—A Sea of Glory—Richard Himself Again—Land in Sight—Scene Described—Historic Castle—Voyage Ended—Two Irishmen. Page, 29 CHAPTER III. THE LAND OF BURNS. English Railway Coaches—Millionaires, Crowned Heads, and Fools—A Conductor Caught on a Cow-catcher—Last Rose of Summer—Off on Foot to the Land of Burns—Appearance of Country and Condition of People—Destination Reached —Doctor Whitsitt and Oliver Twist—The Ploughman Poet—His Cottage—His Relics—His Work and Worth—His Grave and Monument—A Broad View of Life. Page, 38 CHAPTER IV. EDINBURGH. A Jolly Party of Americans—Dim-Eyed Pilgrim—Young Goslings—An American Goose Ranch—Birthplace of Robert Pollok and Mary Queen of Scots—The Boston of Europe—Home of Illustrious Men—A Monument to the Author— Monument to Sir Walter Scott—Edinburgh Castle—Murdered and Head Placed on the Wall—Cromwell’s Siege—Stones of Power—A Dazzling Diadem—A Golden Collar—Baptized in Blood—Meeting American Friends. Page, 47 CHAPTER V. A TRAMP-TRIP THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS. His Royal Highness and a Demand for Fresh Air—A Boy in his Father’s Clothes— Among the Common People—Nature’s Stronghold—Treason Found in Trust— Body Quartered and Exposed on Iron Spikes—Receiving a Royal Salute— Following no Road but a Winding River—Sleeveless Dresses and Dyed Hands— Obelisk to a Novelist and Poet—On the Scotch Lakes—Eyes to See but See Not —A Night of Rest and a Morning of Surprise—A Terrestrial Heaven—A Poetic Inspiration—A Deceptive Mountain—A Glittering Crown—Hard to Climb—An Adventure and a Narrow Escape—Johnson Gives Out—Put to Bed on the Mountain Side—On and Up—A Summit at Last—Niagara Petrified—Overtaken by the Night—Johnson Lost in the Mountains—A Fruitless Search—Bewildered —Exhausted—Sick. Page, 57 CHAPTER VI. A GENERAL VIEW OF SCOTLAND. Highlands and Lowlands—Locked up for Fifteen Days—The Need of a Good Sole— A Soft Side of a Rock—The Charm of Reading on the Spot—A Fearful Experience—Bit and Bridle—Thunder-Riven—Volcanic Eruption—Dangerous Pits—An Hundred-Eyed Devil—Gloomy Dens—Meeting an Enemy—Eyes Like Balls of Fire—Voice Like Rolling Thunder—A Speedy Departure—Leaping from Rock to Rock—Silver Thread among the Mountains—Imperishable Tablets— The Cave of Rob Roy and the land of the MacGregors—Lady of the Lake and Ellen’s Isle—Lodging with Peasants and with Gentlemen—Rising in Mutiny— Strange Fuel—Character of Scotch People—Scotch Baptists—Sunrise at Two O’Clock in the Morning. Page, 67 CHAPTER VII. FROM DUNDEE TO MANCHESTER. [xii] Scotch Presbyterians in Convention—Their Character and Bearing—On the Footpath to Abbotsford—The Home of Scott—Five Miles through the Fields—Melrose Abbey and the Heart of Bruce—Hospitality of a Baptist Preacher—Adieu to Scotland—Merry England—Manchester—Exposition and Prince of Wales— Manchester and Cotton Manufacturers—A $25,000,000 Scheme—Dr. Alexander Maclaren—His Appearance—The Force of his Thought—The Witchery of his Eloquence—His Hospitality Enjoyed—A Promise Made. Page, 75 CHAPTER VIII. BAPTIST CENTENNIAL. Three Baptist Associations—Centennial Year and Jubilee Year—Baptists Seen at their Best—Doctor Alexander Maclaren—Matchless Eloquence—Hon. John Bright Delivers an Address—Boundless Enthusiasm—English Hospitality—A Home with the Mayor. Page, 84 CHAPTER IX. A SOJOURN IN ENGLAND AND ON TO WALES. Arrested and Imprisoned—Released without a Trial—Nottingham—Dwellers in Caves—Seven Hundred Years Old—Forests of Ivanhoe and Robin Hood— Birthplace of Henry Kirk White—Home of the Pilgrim Fathers—Home of Thomas Cranmer—A Guide’s Information—Home of Lord Byron—Wild Beasts from the Dark Continent—A Sad Epitaph—Byron’s Grave—A Wedding Scene —Marriage Customs—Wales and Sea-Bathing—Among the Mountains—Welsh Baptists—A Tottering Establishment. Page, 90 CHAPTER X. LONDON. Entering London—The Great City Crowded—Six Million Five Hundred Thousand People Together—Lost in London—A Human Niagara—A Policeman and a Lockup—The Jubilee and the Golden Wedding—“God Save the Queen.” and God Save the People—Amid England’s Shouts and Ireland’s Groans Heard. Page, 98 CHAPTER XI. SIGHTS OF LONDON. Traveling in London—London a Studio—The Hum of Folly and the Sleep of Traffic —Five Million Heads in Nightcaps—Too Many People Together—Survival of the Fittest—Place and Pride—Poverty and Penury—Beneficence in London— East End—Assembly Hall—A Converted Brewer—His Great Work—Meeting an Old Schoolmate. Page, 107 CHAPTER XII. A TRIO OF ILLUSTRIOUS MEN. Joseph Parker—Canon Farrar—Charles H. Spurgeon. Page, 118 CHAPTER XIII. NOTTINGHAM, CAMBRIDGE, AND BEDFORD. Preaching to 2,500 People—Entertained after the Manner of Royalty—Excursion to Cambridge—What Happened on the Way—Received an Entertainment by the Mayor—Cambridge University—King’s Chapel—Fitzwilliam Museum—Trinity College—Cambridge Bibles—Adieu to Friends—Bedford—The Church where John Bunyan Preached—Bedford Jail, where Bunyan wrote Pilgrim’s Progress—Bunyan’s Statue—Elstow, Bunyan’s Birthplace—His Cottage—His Chapel—An Old Elm Tree. Page, 123 CHAPTER XIV. THE BAPTISTS OF ENGLAND. Their Number and Divisions—The Regular Baptists—Their Movements and Progress. Page, 130 CHAPTER XV. LAST OF ENGLAND AND FIRST OF THE CONTINENT. Windsor Castle, the Home of England’s Queen—Queen Victoria—The Home of Shakespeare—Across the Channel—First Impressions—Old Time Ways— Brussels on a Parade—Waterloo Re-enacted—A Visit to the Field of Waterloo— A Lion with Eyes Fixed on France—Interview with a Man who Saw Napoleon —Wertz Museum—“Napoleon in Hell”—“Hell in Revolt against Heaven”—“Triumph of Christ”—Age Offering the Things of the Present to the Man of the Future. Page, 143 CHAPTER XVI. [xiii] [xiv] FROM BELGIUM TO COLOGNE AND UP THE RHINE. Brussels—Its Laces and Carpets—Belgium a Small Country—Cultivated like a Garden—Into Germany—Aix-La-Chapelle—Birthplace of Charlemagne—Capital of Holy Roman Empire—Cathedral Built by Charlemagne—A Strange Legend— Shrine of the Four Relics—A Pulpit Adorned with Ivory and Studded with Diamonds—Cologne—Its Inhabitants—Its Perfumery—Its Cathedral—A Ponderous Bell—A Church Built of Human Bones—Sailing up the Rhine—A River of Song—Bonn—Its University—Birthplace of Beethoven—Feudal Lords —The Bloody Rhine—Dragon’s Rock—A Combat with a Serpent—A Convent with a Love Story—Empress of the Night—Intoxicated—Coblentz—A Tramp- Trip through Germany—Sixteen Thousand Soldiers Engaged in Battle— Enchanted Region—Loreli—Son-in-Law of Augustus Caesar—Birthplace of Gutenberg, the Inventor of Printing. Page, 155 CHAPTER XVII. FROM FRANKFORT TO WORMS. Frankfort-on-the-Main—Met at Depot by a Committee—Frankfort, the Home of Culture and Art—Birthplace of Goethe—“He Preaches like a God”—The Home of Rothschild—A Visit to his House—Worms and its History—Luther and a Bad Diet—Luther Monument—Theses Nailed on the Door—Fame of Luther and his Followers more Imperishable than their Bronze Statues. Page, 168 CHAPTER XVIII. GERMAN BAPTISTS. A Weak Beginning—Persecutions—Firm Faith—Rapid Growth—A Trio of Leaders —Theological Schools—Publishing House—Hopeful Outlook. Page, 174 CHAPTER XIX. OUT OF GERMANY INTO SWITZERLAND. A Lesson from Nature—Tramp-Trip through the Black Forests—Heidelberg Castle— Basle, Switzerland—Met by a Friend—Emigrants off for America—Delivering an Address to the Emigrants—The Grave of Erasmus—Gateway to the Heart of the Alps—Snowy Peaks—Rendezvous of the Nations—Beautiful Scene— Moonlight on the Lake—Sweet Music—Pretty Girls—Mountains Shaken with Thunder and Wrapped with Fire. Page, 184 CHAPTER XX. SWITZERLAND AS SEEN ON FOOT. Alpine Fever—Flags of Truce—Schiller and the Swiss Hero—Tell’s Statue and Chapel—Ascent of the Rigi—Beautiful Scenery—Famous Falls—Rambles in the Mountains—Glaciers—The Matterhorn—Yung Frau—Ascent of Mount Blanc— An Eagle in the Clouds—Switzerland and her People—The Oldest Republic in the World—“Home, Sweet Home”—High Living—Land Owners—Alpine Folk— Night Spent in a Swiss Chalet—Johnson in Trouble—Walk of Six Hundred Miles—Famous Alpine Pass—A Night above the Clouds—Saint Bernard Hospice —Overtaken in a Snow-Storm—Hunting Dead Men—The Alps as a Monument —Geneva—Prison of Chilon—How Time was Spent—Tongue of Praise. Page, 190 CHAPTER XXI. BAPTIST MISSION WORK IN FRANCE. Incipiency of the Work—Obstacles to Overcome—Progress—Hopeful Outlook. Page, 213 CHAPTER XXII. FROM VIENNA DOWN THE DANUBE TO CONSTANTINOPLE. A Black Night on the Black Sea—A Doleful Dirge—Two Thousand Miles—Vienna— Its Architecture—Its Palace—Its Art Galleries and Museums—Through Hungary, Servia, Slavonia, and Bulgaria—Cities and Scenery along the Danube —Products of the Countries—Entering the Bosphorus amid a War of the Elements—Between Two Continents—Constantinople—Difficulty with a Turkish Official—A Babel of Tongues—The Sultan at Prayer—Twenty Thousand Soldiers on Guard—Multiplicity of Wives—Man-Slayer. Page, 220 CHAPTER XXIII. FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO ATHENS. A Stormy Day on Marmora—Sunrise on Mount Olympus—Brusa, the Ancient Capital of Turkey—Ancient Troy—Homeric Heroes—Agamemnon’s Fleet—The Wooden Horse—Paul’s Vision at Troas—Athens—A Lesson in Greek—The Acropolis—The Parthenon—Modern Athens—Temple of Jupiter—The Prison of Socrates—The Platform of Demosthenes—Mars Hill and Paul’s Sermon— Influence of the Ancients. Page, 230 CHAPTER XXIV. [xv] ASIA MINOR AND THE ISLAND OF PATMOS. Smyrna—Its Commerce—Its Population—Famed Women—Home of the Apostle John—One of the Seven Asiatic Churches—Martyrdom and Tomb of Polycarp —Emblematic Olive Tree—Out into the Interior of Asia Minor—Struck by Lightning—Visit to Ephesus—Birthplace of Mythology—Temple of Diana— Relics of the Past—Homer’s Birthplace—A Baptist Preacher and a Protracted Meeting—John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary—Timothy’s Grave—Cave of the Seven Sleepers—Return to Smyrna—Sail to Patmos—Patmos, the Exiled Home of the Apostle John—The Island of Rhodes and the Colossus—Death and Disease on the Ship—Quarantined—A Watery Grave—Hope Anchored within the Vail. Page, 240 CHAPTER XXV. FROM BEYROUT TO THE CEDARS OF LEBANON. Landing at Beyrout—Escape from Death—Thankful Hearts—Seed Planted—Desire Springs up—Bud of Hope—Golden Fruit—“By God’s Help”—Preparations— New Traveling Companions—Employing a Dragoman—A Many-Sided Man Required to Make a Successful Traveler—“Equestrian Pilgrims”—A Great Caravan—Ships of the Desert—Preparations for War—A Dangerous Mishap— National Hymn—Journey Begun—Mulberry Trees—Fig-Leaf Dresses—An Inspiring Conversation—The Language of Balaam—City of Tents—General Rejoicing—Tidings of Sadness—Welcome News—First Night in Tents— Sabbath Day’s Rest—Johnson and his Grandmother—A Wedding Procession— Johnson Delighted—Brides Bought and Sold—Increase in Price—Inferiority of Woman—Multiplicity of Wives—Folding of Tents—Camel Pasture—Leave Damascus Road—Noah’s Tomb, Eighty-Five Feet Long—Perilous Ascent— Brave Woman—“If I Die, Carry Me on to the Top”—The Cedars at Last— Emotions Stirred—“The Righteous Grow like the Cedars of Lebanon”—Amnon. Page, 250 CHAPTER XXVI. FROM THE CEDARS OF LEBANON TO BAALBEK. Returning to Tents—Mountain Spurs and Passes—A Modern Thermopylae—Two Caravans Meet—A Fight to the Death—How Johnson Looks—Victory at Last— Into the Valley where the King Lost his Eyes—Playing at Agriculture—Squalid Poverty—Baalbek—Its Mighty Temples—Men, Mice and Monkeys—A Poem Writ in Marble. Page, 269 CHAPTER XXVII. DAMASCUS. A Beautiful Valley—Flowing Rivers—Mohammed at Damascus—Garden of God— Paul at Damascus—Mohammedan at Prayer—Valley More Beautiful— Damascus Exclusively Oriental—Quaint Architecture—“Often in Wooden Houses Golden Rooms we Find”—Narrow Streets—Industrious People—Shoe Bazaars—Manufacturing Silk by hand—Fanatical Merchants—“Christian Dogs”—Cabinet-Making—Furniture Inlaid with Pearl—Camel Markets—A Progenitor of the Mule—Machinery Unknown—Ignorance Stalks Abroad— Fanatical Arabs—A Massacre—The Governor Gives the Signal—Christians Killed—French Army—Abraham Our Guide—Brained before Reaching the Post- Office—Warned not to Look at the Women—Johnson’s Regret—Vailed Women —Johnson’s Explanation. Page, 276 CHAPTER XXVIII. THE NAAMAN HOSPITAL FOR THE LEPROSY. Naaman, the Leper—His Visit to Elisha—The Prophet’s Command—Naaman Cured —House Turned into a Leper Hospital—Off to the Lepers’ Den—Origin, History and Nature of Leprosy—Arrival at the Gloomy Prison—Abraham, “I Didn’t Promise to Go into the Tomb with You”—“Screw your Courage to the Sticking Point”—Johnson’s Reply—Suspicious of the Arab Gate-Keepers—A Charge to Abraham—Life in Johnson’s Hands—Mamie and the Currant-Bush—Among the Lepers—Judgment Come—Graves Open—Living Corpses—Walking Skeletons —Strewing out Coins—An Indescribable Scene—An Indelible Picture—Horrible Dreams. Page, 292 CHAPTER XXIX. FROM DAMASCUS TO THE SEA OF GALILEE. Sick, nigh unto Death—“Night Bringeth out the Stars”—Mount Hermon and the Transfiguration—Beautiful Camp-Ground—Amnon, the Reliable—“Thou Art Peter”—Fountain of the Jordan—Slaughter of the Buffaloes—Crossing into Galilee—Dan—Abraham’s Visit—A Fertile Valley—Wooden Plows—A Bedouin Village—Costumes of Eden—A Gory Field—Sea of Galilee—Sacred Memories —The Evening Hour—A Soliloquy—Bathing—Sailing—Fishing. Page, 303 CHAPTER XXX. FROM THE SEA OF GALILEE TO NAZARETH. [xvi] [xvii] A Seven Hour’s Journey—A Rough Road and a Hot Sun—Gazelles—Nimrods of To- day—Historic Corn-Field—Cana of Galilee—First Miracle—Cana at Present— Greek and Roman Convents—Conflicting Stories of Greek and Latin Priests— Explanation—An Important Fact—Marriage Divinely Instituted—Woman Degraded—Woman Honored—Description of Nazareth—Childhood Home of Jesus—Jesus and the Flower-Garden—Studying Nature—He Goes to the Mountain Top—Without Bounds or Limits—A Fit Play-Ground and Suitable School-Room for the Royal Child—Rock Bluff where the People Tried to “Cast him down Headlong”—The Carpenter Shop—The Virgin’s Fountain—Nazareth at Present—Protestant Missions—A Short Sermon and a Sweet Song. Page, 319 CHAPTER XXXI. A CHARACTERISTIC SCENE IN THE ORIENT. Shepherd Tents—Many Flocks in One Sheep-Cote for the Night—Many Merchants from Different Countries—Ships Anchored—Arabs at Meal—Arabs Smoking— Shepherds with their Reed-Pipes—Merchants’ Response—Music and Dancing at Night—Bustle and Confusion in the Morning—Fight Like Madmen—Over- Burdened Camels—Camp Broken up—Dothan and Joseph’s Pit—Money-Loving Mohammedans—Crafty Jews—Return to Tents—The Shepherds Awaken— Crook, Sling and Reed-Pipe—David and Goliath—Shepherds under the Star-Lit Sky—”Glory to God in the Highest.” Page, 337 CHAPTER XXXII. FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. A Man “Fell among Thieves”—The Way still Lined with Thieves—Guards Necessary —Across the Mount of Olives—Bethany and its Memories—David’s Flight from Jerusalem—”Halt! Halt!”—Seized with Terror—Splendid Horsemanship—”A Hard Road to Trabble”—Inn where the Good Samaritan Left the Jew—Brigands on the Way-side—Robbers and Guards in Collusion—Topography of the Country—Dangers and Difficulties—Perilous Places Passed—Plain of Jericho— Writhing in Agony—The City of Palms—Trumps of Joshua—Jericho in the Time of Herod—Iron-Fingered Fate—Jericho at Present—A Divine Region— Pool of Moses—Antony and Cleopatra. Page, 346 CHAPTER XXXIII. BEYOND THE JORDAN. Plain of Moab—Children of Israel—Moses’s Request—Moab a Rich Country— Lawless Clans—A Traveler Brutally Murdered—A Typical Son of Ishmael— Dens and Strongholds—Captured by a Clan of Arabs—Shut up in Mountain Caves—Heavy Ransom Exacted—The Moabite Stone—Confirmation of Scripture—Machaerus—John the Baptist—Prison Chambers—Character of John—How to Gauge a Life—Hot-Springs—Herod’s Visit—”Smell of Blood still”—Mount Nebo—Fine View—Life of Moses—From Egypt to Nebo—An Arab Legend—Death of Moses. Page, 362 CHAPTER XXXIV. THE JORDAN. Two Thoughts—From Nebo to the River—Thrilling Emotions—Historic Ground—A Sacred Scene—An Earnest Preacher—Christ Baptized—Awe-Stricken People— A Sacred River—Bathing of Pilgrims—Robes Become Shrouds—The Ghor of the Jordan—The Valley an Inclined Plane—The Three Sources of the River— The Jordan Proper—Banks—Tributaries—Bridges—River Channel—Velocity of the Water—Its Temperature—Its Width and Depth—Vegetation along the Stream—Wild Beasts—Birds. Page, 380 CHAPTER XXXV. THE DEAD SEA. A Wonderful Body of Water—Receives 20,000,000 Cubic Feet of Water per Day— Has no Outlet—Never Fills Up—In the Sea—Johnson’s Suggestion as to my Identity—Why One Cannot Sink—”Salt Sea”—Caught in a Storm—Danger of Death—Dreary Waste—Sea of Fire—Johnson’s Argument—New-Born Babe— Child Dies—Lot’s Wife—Her Past History and Present Condition—The Frenchman’s Book—Why the Sea is so Salt—Why it Never Fills Up—Sown with Diamonds—Origin of the Dead Sea—God’s Wrath—The Sodom Apple— The Sea an Emblem of Death. Page, 397 CHAPTER XXXVI. TWO RUSSIAN PILGRIMS, OR A PICTURE OF LIFE. A Steep Mountain—Rough Base—Beautiful Summit—Russian Pilgrims—Journey up Mountain—Life’s Hill—Courage in Heart—Marriage Altar—Long Pilgrimage— Star of Hope. Page, 409 CHAPTER XXXVII. FROM JERUSALEM, VIA BETHLEHEM AND POOLS OF SOLOMON, TO HEBRON. [xviii] Rachel’s Tomb—Bethlehem—Ruth and Boas—David the Shepherd Lad—Cave of the Nativity—Pools of Solomon—Royal Gardens—The Home of Abraham— Abraham’s Oak—Abraham’s Mummy. Page, 414 CHAPTER XXXVIII. FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA. Palestine—Its Situation—Its Dimensions—Its Names—Its Topography—Its Climate —Its Seasons—Its Agriculture—Its People—The Pleasure of Traveling through Palestine. Page, 426 CHAPTER XXXIX. JERUSALEM. Approaching Jerusalem—Coming Events—Dreams—Light Breaks In—Serenade— Zion, the City of God—Prayers Answered—Gratitude—A Vision of Peace— Blighted Fig-Tree—Still a Holy City—Prominence of Jerusalem—Its Influence among the Nations—A Melted Heart—Tents Pitched—Walk About Zion— Situation of the City—Its Walls—Its Gates—Afraid of Christ—Crossing the Kedron—Tomb of Virgin Mary—Gethsemane—What it Means, What it Is, and How it Looks—Superstitious Monks—Jerusalem Viewed from the Mount of Olives—Architecture of the City—Prominent Objects—Entering the City—Its Streets—Its Population—Jewish Theologues—Remaining Portion of Solomon’s Temple—”Wailing Place” of the Jews—Kissing the Wall—Weeping Aloud— Fulfillment of Prophecy—Only One Conclusion. Page, 445 CHAPTER XL. JERUSALEM CONTINUED—MOSQUE OF OMAR. Haram Area—Its Past and Present—Wall—Gates—Stopped at the Point of Daggers —Legal Papers and Special Escort—Mosque of Omar—Its Exterior and Interior —A Great Rock Within—History and Legends Connected with the Rock— Mohammed’s Ascent to Heaven—Place of Departed Spirits—Their Rescue— Ark of the Covenant—Golden Key. Page, 467 CHAPTER XLI. IN AND AROUND JERUSALEM. Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Peculiar Architecture—Strange Partnership—The Centre of the Earth—The Grave of Adam—Unaccountable Superstitions—An Underground World—Pool of Siloam—Kedron Valley—The Final Judgment— Tomb of the Kings—Valley of Hinnom—Lower Pool of Gihon—Moloch— Gehenna—Upper Pool of Gihon—Calvary—The Savior’s Tomb. Page, 479 CHAPTER XLII. EGYPT. Jaffa—Its History and its Orange Orchard—On the Mediterranean—Port Said—Suez Canal—The Red Sea—Pharaoh and his Host Swallowed Up—From Suez to Cairo—Arabian Nights—Egyptian Museum—Royal Mummies—A Look at Pharaoh—A Mummy 5,700 Years Old—A Talk with the King—Christmas-Day and a Generous Rivalry—Donkey-Boys of Cairo—Wolves around a Helpless Lamb—Johnson on his Knees—Yankee Doodle—The Nile—The Prince of Wales—Pyramid in the Distance—Face to Face with the Pyramid of Cheops— Ascending the Pyramid—Going in it—Johnson Cries for Help—The Sphinx, and what it is Thinking about. Page, 495 CHAPTER XLIII. A BURIED CITY—POMPEII. Long Shut Out of Civilization—Four Days in Gehenna—Paul’s Experience Co- Incides with Ours—Dead—Buried—A Stone Against the Door—Raised from the Grave—Under an Italian Sky—”See Naples and Die”—Off for the City of the Dead—Knocking for Entrance—Earthquake—Re-Built—Location of the City —Boasted Perfection—City Destroyed by a Volcano—Vivid Description by an Eye-Witness—Rich Field for Excavation—What Has been Found—Returns to Get Gold—Poetical Inspiration—Pompeii at Present—Mistaken Dedication. Page, 515 CHAPTER XLIV. VESUVIUS IN ACTION. As it Looks by Day and by Night—Leaving Naples—First Sight of Vesuvius— Description—The Number of Volcanoes—Off to See the Burning Mountain—A Nameless Horse—Respect for Age—Refuse Portantina—Mountain of Shot—A Dweller in a Cave—A Slimy Serpent for a Companion—Jets of Steam— Vulcan’s Forge—Exposed to a Horrible Death—Upheavals of Lava—Showers of Fire—Fiery Fiends—Winged Devils—Tongue of Fire—A Voice of Thunder. Page, 526 CHAPTER XLV. ROME—ANCIENT AND MODERN. xix [xx] The Mother of Empires—Weeps and Will not be Comforted—Nero’s Golden Palace —Ruined Greatness—Time, the Tomb-Builder—Papal Rome—The Last Siege— Self-Congratulations—Better Out-Look—The Seven-Hilled City—Vanity of Vanities—The Pantheon—Nature Slew Him—The Shrine of All Saints. Page, 535 CHAPTER XLVI. ROME—ITS ART AND ARCHITECTURE. A Question Asked—Answer Given—Nature as Teacher—Italians as Pupils—Great Artists—The Inferno—The Cardinal in Hell—The Pope’s Reply—A Thing of Beauty—The Beloved—The Transfiguration—Architecture—Marble Men Struggle to Speak—Resplendent Gems. Page, 544 CHAPTER XLVII. BAPTIST MISSION WORK IN ITALY. Why Italy is a Mission-Field—Beginning of the Work—Difficulties—Increase of Forces—Growth of Work—Sanguine Expectations. Page, 553 CHAPTER XLVIII. FROM ROME, VIA FLORENCE TO VENICE. Peasants—A Three-Fold Crop—Elba, the Exiled Home of Napoleon—Pisa—Leaning Tower—An Odd Burial-Ground—Florence—The Home of Savonarola, Dante, and Michael Angelo—Art Galleries—On to Venice—A Flood—Johnson Excited —Storm Raging—Lightening the Ship—Venice, a Water-Lily—No Streets but Water—No Carriages but Gondolas—Shylocks. Page, 563 [xxi]