COOKBOOK 140 Italian Recipes from San Francisco's Favorite North Beach Restaurant « HEARON AND BY R EED PEGGY KNICKERBOCKER Whenaward-winningchefReedHearondecidedto openhisthirdrestaurantinthehistoricNorthBeach sectionofSanFrancisco,hewantedtopaytributeto thecuisineoftheItalianimmigrantswhosettledthere. Hewasimmediatelyintriguedbyahardworking,hard- drinkingbarkeepnamedRosePistolawhohadbeenfea- turedinjournalistPeggyKnickerbocker'srecentlypub- lishedarticleonthegreatcooks,or"OldStoves,"of NorthBeach.HeaskedRoseifhecouldnamehisnew restaurantafterher,towhichshereplied,"What'sinit forme?"Reed'sanswer?Atableanytime. Now tablesarehardtocomebyatReed'swildly successfulRosePistolarestaurant.Hailedas"thebest ItalianrestaurantinSanFrancisco"bytheSanFrancisco Chronicle,RosePistolatookthecountrybystorm,win- ningthe 1997JamesBeardAwardforBestNew Restau- rant,whileBonAppetitnamedit"OneoftheYear'sBest New Restaurants." TheRosePistolaCookbookfeatures 140ofthisbeloved restaurant'sbestdishes,whichcombineOld-World ItalianspiritandinnovativeCaliforniacuisine.Eachrec- ipehasbeensimplifiedforthehomecook,emphasizing readilvavailableingredientsandstraightforwardstep-by- stepinstructions.Onlythefreshestseasonalfruits,vege- tables,andseafoodareusediningredient-drivendishes thatsimplvburstwithflavor:ShavedArtichokeswith FavaBeansandParmesan. RoastedBeetswithRicotta SalataandArugula.Wood-OvenBakedGoatCheeseand Roasted PepperPizza.Skillet-RoastedMussels. FLAP) THE R<i)Se Pist<5>la COOKBOOK & Reed /learon Fe^y Knickerbocker Black-and-White Photographs by Henrik Kam & Color Photographs by Laurie Smith roadway Books New York (j) THE Pist^la R(§)Se COOKBOOK 140 Italian Recipes from San Francisco's Favorite North Beach Restaurant 1 BROADWAY therosepistolacookbook.Copyright©1999byReedHearonandPeggyKnicker- bocker.Black-and-whitephotographscopyright©1999byHenrikKamandcolorpho- tographscopyright©1999byLaurieSmith.Allrightsreserved.PrintedintheUnited StatesofAmerica.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedortransmittedinanyform orbyanymeans,electronicormechanical,includingphotocopying,recording,orby anyinformationstorageandretrievalsystem,withoutwrittenpermissionfromthe publisher.ForinformationaddressBroadwayBooks,adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc., 1540Broadway,NewYork,NY10036. BroadwayBookstitlesmaybepurchasedforbusinessorpromotionaluseorforspe- cialsales.Forinformation,pleasewriteto:SpecialMarketsDepartment, RandomHouse,Inc.,1540Broadway,NewYork,NY10036. Broadwaybooksanditslogo,aletterBbisectedonthediagonal,aretrademarksof BroadwayBooks,adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Hearon,Reed. TheRosePistolacookbook : 140ItalianrecipesfromSan Francisco'sfavoriteNorthBeachrestaurant / ReedHearonandPeggy Knickerbocker ; black-and-whi—tephotographsbyHenrikKamandcolor photographsbyLaurieSmith. isted. p. cm. Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. ISBN0-7679-0250-5(he) 1. Cookery,American—Californiastyle. 2. Cookery,Italian. 3. Pistola,Rose. I. Knickerbocker,Peggy. II. Title. TX725.A1H357 1999 — 641.59794 dc2i 99-26468 CIP FIRSTEDITION BookdesignbyPelLoiKoay Black-and-whitephotographsbyHenrikKamandcolorphotographsbyLaurieSmith. 99 00 01 02 03 io 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Pageii: Horse-drawncarriageslookingsouthfromChestnutStreetonColumbus Avenueintheearly1900s.CourtesyJ.B.MonacoPhotography. Pageiii: LunchonthesidewalkatRosePistola. L In memoryofthepeople whotaught mehow todrink, eat, — andrevelwith wildabandon in North Beach thelate RosePistola, FreddieKuh, SeanMooney, andBruno Iacopi. P. K. This book is dedicatedto Rose "Pistola"Evangelista andtoScott andPeggy, whoshare herlegacywith me. — "/am rough, Iam tough, Vmfrom North Beach that's enough." We missyouRose . . . —R. H.