The Project Gutenberg eBook, Tea-Blending as a Fine Art, by Joseph M. Walsh This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Tea-Blending as a Fine Art Author: Joseph M. Walsh Release Date: October 14, 2015 [eBook #50207] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEA-BLENDING AS A FINE ART*** E-text prepared by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) Note: Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/teablendingasfin00wals In the html version of this eBook, images with blue borders are linked to larger versions of the illustrations. Clicking on these images will display the larger versions. Tea Hills of China. [3] Tea-Blending AS A FINE ART BY JOSEPH M. WALSH, AUTHOR OF TEA ITS History and Mystery. steaming teacup “THE CUP THAT CHEERS BUT NOT INEBRIATES.”—Cowper. PHILADELPHIA: PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 1896. [4] COPYRIGHT BY JOSEPH M. WALSH. 1896. [5] CONTENTS. Pages. I.—Introduction 7–11 II.—Classification and Description of Teas 13–36 III.—Art of Testing and Selecting Teas 37–44 IV.—Adulteration and Detection 45–49 V.—Art of Blending Teas 51–91 VI.—Art of Keeping, Selling and Preparing Tea 93–104 (Branch of Tea Plant.) [6] [7] PART I. INTRODUCTION. There is no article handled by the grocer which demands greater attention, engages more of his time, or has a more important bearing upon the success of his business than Tea, as it stands in many respects far ahead of all the other commodities in commanding and maintaining patronage, as well as in attracting and retaining trade for numerous other articles, and at the same time yielding a larger margin of profit to the dealer. Gain being the fundamental object of all business transactions, and as tea to the grocer plays such an essential part in determining this profit, we may be excused if, in considering the article from a purely practical standpoint, we urge the relation which it has to the success of the dealer, and who, as a general rule, experiences much more difficulty in the judicious selection of his Tea than in any other staple he trades in. The cause of this difficulty is obvious to dealers in Tea in general, being entirely due to the numerous varieties and almost innumerable grades, flavors and characters of the commodity with which he is confronted and to be selected from in order to satisfy the diversity of tastes and various preferences to be catered to in order to please each individual taste and preference. It therefore requires no ordinary skill or brief experience to make the proper selection or combination to suit the consumer under these trying circumstances. The acquisition of such skill or knowledge, for all practical purposes, is not, however, quite as difficult as is supposed by many dealers, it being fairly obtained by an intelligent study of the leading varieties and grades most in demand in the country or section of consumption, in addition to a few simple and inexpensive experiments by the dealer in order to familiarize himself with the leading characters and values of the different varieties, grades and flavors of the Teas best adapted to each particular class or section of the country in which he may be doing business. Little is known, comparatively, in this country particularly, of the art or principle of blending or “mixing” of Teas. The American dealer and consumer alike being averse to the practice as a general rule, regarding it as about on a parity with the other too numerous forms of adulteration and sophistication now in vogue, not only in the countries of consumption, but also in those of production. Such objections, however, are entirely erroneous, as it is an acknowledged fact that a combination of different varieties of wheat make better flour, the same being true of coffee and many other staples of diet and drink, so that the practice of blending Teas for the consumer, if properly understood and skillfully and judiciously performed, would prove a more satisfactory one to the consumer, and at the same time a more profitable one to the dealer. The object of blending being, not as the Tea-using public imagines to lower the standard or reduce the cost at the expense of quality, but to produce a measurably better Tea and obtain a fuller and heavier liquor in addition to a much finer and more desirable flavor than that yielded by any single variety when used alone. A Tea, in short, giving better satisfaction to the consumer at a more moderate price, and at the same time allowing a better margin of profit to the dealer without lowering his standard of quality. To illustrate, a dealer may already be selling a Tea to his customers, possessing a pleasing and suitable flavor, but be lacking in body or too light in liquor, whereas by his adding to it a small proportion of one or two other varieties possessing these requisite properties the defect is easily and inexpensively remedied, and a fuller-liquied, heavier-bodied, richer-flavored infusion is produced; the drawing and drinking qualities of the Tea being improved all round without extra cost to the dealer or increase of price to the consumer. It must therefore follow that by the skillful and judicious mixing or blending of a number of Teas, each differing in variety or grade, a more uniform, pleasing and palatable Tea, that is, one richer in liquor, heavier in body and more aromatic in flavor, can be produced by this now acknowledged principle at a more moderate cost to dealer and consumer than can otherwise be obtained from any single variety or grade of Tea. The idea of blending Teas originally arose from the experience incidentally gained by some old and life-long Tea dealers, that a beverage richer in liquor, more pleasing in flavor, more satisfactory in price to the consumer and less costly to the dealer, could be produced from a number of the different varieties or grades when skillfully amalgamated or judiciously combined than could otherwise be obtained from any single sort when used alone. No sooner was this experience confirmed than the “mixing” or blending of Teas was generally resorted to by many of those who had the dispensing of the commodity to the public. But while some dealers had a marked success in this branch of the Tea business from the start, others again who attempted to practice it failed completely in their efforts to produce any satisfactory results to themselves or their customers, the end accomplished being instead of an improvement an injury and detriment to the quality and value of the Teas so combined, more often to such an extent that the single and regular variety of Tea in demand would have pleased better at less labor, time and cost to the dealer. The cause of this failure was, however, due entirely and alone to the want of that necessary training, experience or intelligent knowledge which would enable the unskilled blender to understand the peculiar characteristics and affinities of the different varieties and various grades of the Teas which are improved by combination, and their component parts, as well as to avoid those which are deteriorated by the amalgamation. The knowledge and skill required for this very particular and precise branch of the Tea business being only attained in its perfection by numerous tests and constant experiments, which are best performed by the admixture of from two to five—or more in many instances—small samples of Tea differing, frequently materially, in variety, character and quality, and alternately changing, altering and substituting the varieties and proportions of the same until the dealer has finally succeeded in producing a Tea unique in character, identified with himself, and differing in every respect from that of any Tea offered or sold by his competitors, the liquor, flavor and aroma of which will prove more pleasing and satisfactory in quality and price to his patrons, and at a more moderate cost to himself. Time and experience have proved beyond question that skillful and judicious tea blending will be found to amply repay for all the study, labor and expense bestowed on it by the dealer, as the chief and only difficulty existing in the art lies in [8] [9] [10] [11] the fact of first finding a combination or combinations that will please the majority of consumers. But it is an egregious mistake to imagine that the successful or profitable blending of teas consists solely in the indiscriminate or injudicious heaping together carelessly and indifferently of two or more varieties or grades of tea in one homogeneous mass without the slightest regard to quantity, quality, affinity, affiliation or assimilation of leaf, liquor, character or flavor of the component parts. While on the contrary the art or principle consists in the proper combining of two or more different varieties or grades of tea intended to form the combination on an at least intelligent or judicious, if not scientific manner, so as to yield a unique or particular tea, of uniform quality, strength, flavor and pungency, at a given price, being at the same time pleasing and satisfactory to the average consumer, and maintaining its standard of quality at all times and under all circumstances. But while it may be admitted that it is difficult to master the art of successful tea blending thoroughly without the serving of an apprenticeship to the business, and that the combinations that may be found in it are almost kaleidoscopic in their range, still even the veriest novice need not spoil good tea by injudicious mixing, as all that is required is a little study and a few simple rules carefully followed, although these cannot be substituted entirely for years of practical experience in such a difficult and at the present time most essential branch of the tea business, but will nevertheless prevent any serious error, and at the same time insure a fair measure of success to the most inexperienced in the art. (Chinese Tea Garden.) [11] [13] PART II. CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION OF TEAS. The Teas of commerce are classified as China, Japan, India, Ceylon and Java Teas, but are generally divided into Green and Black Teas, under which terms they are best known to the public. They are again sub-divided into numerous varieties and grades, with names derived from the districts of production or indicative of their age, make or quality, these numerous applications being almost entirely of Chinese origin. (China Tea Plant.) CHINA TEAS Are divided into Black and Green, the former comprising Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Scented Teas, the latter including Imperials, Gunpowders, Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankay or Hyson-skin Teas. [14] [15] a—Firsts. b—Seconds. c—Thirds. d—Fourths. (Black Tea Plant.) OOLONG TEAS Are sub-divided into Ankois, Amoys, Foochows, Formosas, Saryune and Pekoe-Oolongs, grading from lowest to highest in the order named. Ankoi Oolong—Is a doubtful species of the genus tea and said to be prepared solely from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling but widely distinct from those of the true tea plant. The leaf is rough and coarse, reddish-black in color, indifferently prepared, and ragged in general appearance, while the liquor is dark-brown, oily or earthy in flavor and bitterly astringent to the taste. It is generally used for mixing with low-grade Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy flavor, and should be avoided by the dealer altogether. Amoy Oolongs—Embrace Kokew, Mohea and Ningyong Oolong teas and are fairly good teas for blending purposes, many of them drawing and drinking exceedingly well in the cup. The leaf, while large and somewhat coarse in appearance, is well prepared as a rule, while the liquor is clear, strong and frequently pungent. The poorer grades, however, possess a wild or herby flavor, strongly objected to by the majority of tea consumers. Foochow Oolong—Ranks among the best of the black teas of China. The leaf of the finer grades being black and silky in appearance, rich and mellow in liquor and fragrant in flavor, while the medium and lower grades are somewhat larger and looser in make they possess splendid cup qualities, making the most suitable foundation for all blends in this country, being useful and serviceable for the purpose. Formosa Oolong—Is unique in leaf, liquor and flavor, differing widely in character and flavor from the former varieties. They possess a rich, fragrant aroma, the leaf being very pleasing in the hand, evenly curled and crapy in texture, and [16] impart tone and character to any combination in which they may be introduced. Saryune and Pekoe Oolongs—Are very rare sorts in this market, the latter deriving its trade-name from being liberally sprinkled with Pekoe-tipped leaves. They are somewhat large and bold in style, evenly curled and pleasing in appearance. The infusion being dark brown in color, heavy and full in body and very fragrant in flavor. CONGOU TEAS. Congou Teas are grown principally in the Bohea hills in China, and are known to trade in this country as English Breakfast Teas. They are divided into Kaisow or Red-leaf and Moning or Black-leaf Teas, and are a distinct variety differing in color, liquor and flavor from the Oolong sorts. Kaisow—or Red-leaf Congous, comprise, Chingwos, Seumoos, Suey-kuts, Saryunes, Sin-chunes, Cheong-soo, Cheong-lok, So-how and Yung-how. The leaf is reddish-black in color, well and firmly made; the liquor rich-red or wine-color, and flavor pungent but pleasing to the taste. Their special feature is their delicate and to a high degree fragrant flavor, which they impart to other Teas in combination, provided the others are not too strong or coarse. Moning—or Black-leaf Congous include Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oonams, Oopacks, Kintucks, Kee-muns, Kiukangs, Panyongs, Paklins and Paklums, and are black in color, stylish in make; the finer grades being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The infusion is also dark-red or wine-colored, but delicate and aromatic, making very useful Teas for blending purposes, combining advantageously with any and all the other varieties. SOUCHONG TEAS Are among the finest and richest of the Black Tea sorts of China, but are limited in supply, being chiefly prepared from the youngest leaves of the earlier pickings. They are known to trade as Lapsing, Padrae, Pekoe, Tonquam, Canton and Oolong-Souchongs. The leaf is long, flat, handsome and “crapy” in texture, finely and artistically curled, being only lightly fired. They yield a rich wine-colored liquor, with a fragrant flavor entirely peculiar to themselves, and described as “tarry” in trade, which, when not too pronounced, adds rather than detracts from their value. The product of the later pickings are of less strength and flavor, but are still smooth and pleasing in liquor and flavor, making very serviceable teas for mixing owing to their general intrinsic properties. SCENTED TEAS Form a special class of the Chinese product, and comprise Foochow, Canton and Macao Scented Teas. They are sub- divided into Capers, Pekoes, Pouchongs, Orange, Flowery and Pouchong Pekoes, and are very fragrant, being highly scented with the leaves, flowers, blossoms and roots of other plants, such as that of the Iris, Jessamine, Gardenia, Chloranthus and Oleofragrans. They are principally prepared from the largest but most succulent leaves of the first pickings and cured by a series of brisk firings and rollings. The dried leaf is finely made, long and evenly folded, and the infusion is wine-colored, piquant and aromatic, from which fact consumers not accustomed to their use erroneously imagine that they are much stronger and more exciting than the Oolong and Green Teas sorts, and should be used only very sparingly in blending. Caper—Is so termed from its small, round leaf resembling capers, and is prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the tea plant. The infusion is of a rich wine-color, pungent and aromatic in flavor, forming what is termed a bouquet. Pekoe—Signifies in Chinese “White down,” applied to the whitish or downy substance at the end of the leaves. It is usually prepared from the young leaf buds just expanding, and is a very much overrated variety. Pouchong—Is a bold, rough-looking leaf, dull black in color and peculiar in scent, the latter being imparted to it by the admixture of the seeds of the Chulan flower. Orange Pekoe—Is a long, flat, even-leaf tea, jet black in color and containing yellowish, downy tops at the ends, from which it derives its trade name. Flowery Pekoe—Is a smaller but more evenly-folded leaf, olive-colored with ends ornamented with whitish or velvety tips, being also very highly scented with the flowers or blossoms of other plants. In some of the Chinese districts the scenting material is added to the tea during the firing process and afterward separated by sifting, but is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is prepared and ready for packing. It is spread over the tip of the tea and allowed to remain there for at least a day, or until it becomes strongly impregnated with their moisture, and then removed, the duration depending in a great measure on the character of the scent employed. [17] [18] [19] a—Gunpowder. b—Young Hyson. c—Imperial. d—Hyson. e—Twankey. (Green Tea Plant.) GREEN TEAS Include Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tayshings and Pingsueys, district names, and grading in the order named. Moyune—Is the most valuable intrinsically and commercially, being far superior to all the others in make, color, draw and drink. The leaf is firmly rolled, natural green in color and extremely uniform in appearance, while the liquor is clear, brisk and pungent in flavor, forming a splendid variety for blending with any tea. Hychows—Are much inferior to the former in leaf and liquor, the infusion, although darker in color, is lighter in body and devoid of any pronounced flavor. Fychows—Are generally bold and rough in leaf, dull-green in color, dark and heavy in liquor and astringent in flavor, being in the whole a very undesirable sort for any purpose. Tienkes—While long and coarse in make are yet pleasing to the eye, being chiefly sold in style as they will not stand the cup test, the infusion being dark, thick, bitter and frequently smoky in flavor owing to high firing. Tayshings—Like Tienkes look well in the hand, being fairly well-made and stylish-looking, but are of a leaden-blue color, the result of the facing or coloring matter used to enhance their appearance, while the liquor is dark and muddy and the flavor earthy to the taste. Pingsueys—Are termed by the Chinese Bastard Tea, being principally prepared from the leaves of some shrub remotely resembling those of the Tea plant. While the leaf is very stylish and firmly made it is of heavy blue color and greasy in appearance owing to the gypsum used in their preparation and are entirely unfit for human use. What are known as “Canton” and “Country” Green Teas are also spurious Teas, the former being manufactured from spent or exhausted Tea leaves, that is Tea once used, dried, refired and colored with gypsum or Prussian blue. The latter being prepared from the leaves of wild or uncultivated Tea plants. [20] [21] (Picking Tea in China.) SUB-VARIETIES. The Green Teas of China are again sub-divided in Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankays, terms denoting style of make, age or other peculiarity, and are too well known to the trade to need description. Gunpowder—Is termed by the Chinese “Choo-Cha” or Pearl tea, from its small, round or shotty appearance. It is generally prepared from the smallest and youngest leaves of the green tea plant, its quality corresponding to the picking and district of growth. The product of the first crop is sometimes known as “Pin-head” from its extremely small, round or globular appearance. Imperial—Derives its trade name from being the style or make of Tea used in the Imperial household and by the Mandarins or wealthier Chinese. That exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as the former, from which fact it is also known as “Big Gunpowder” and also as “Pea- leaf.” But while larger and bolder in make it possesses much the same drawing and drinking qualities. Hyson—Is known to the Chinese as “He-tsien” or “Flourishing Spring” from being picked in the full spring-time, and is large and loosely made, being prepared from the older leaves of each respective picking. It bears the same relation to Young Hyson that Imperial does to Gunpowder and produces the same characteristics, but in a minor degree. Young Hyson—Is a corruption of the Chinese term, “Yu-tsien,” or Early Spring, from being gathered in the early spring-time, and in make the leaves are extremely small, finely but artistically twisted, almost wirey in texture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the tea plant. Twankay—Or “Hyson-skin,” is composed chiefly of the largest and oldest leaves of the foregoing varieties that cannot, owing to their coarse or broken condition, be rolled or converted into the former makes. It is a large, loose and flat-leaf tea, varying in color, liquor and flavor, according to the grades from which it is separated. Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time existed regarding the species of plant yielding the varieties known as Green and Black teas, many authorities claiming that the former was produced from the Green tea plant exclusively, and the latter from the Black tea plant solely, while again it was held by others that both varieties were prepared at pleasure from but one and the same species, the mere difference in color, flavor and effects being due entirely to a disparity in the soil and process of curing. But later and more careful investigation disprove these particular opinions, as while it is now admitted, even by the Chinese themselves, that both kinds may be produced at will from either or both species of the tea plant, it is a popular error to imagine that China produces the two commercial kinds in all districts, as the preparation of the greater proportion of the respective varieties is carried on in widely separated districts of the Empire from corresponding species of the tea plant, different methods being adopted only in the process of curing the two kinds from the first stage. Green teas are prepared and distinguished from Black in such instances by the fact that the former are not fermented as long or fired as high in the process of rolling as the latter. It was also a commonly- received opinion at one time that the distinctive color of Green teas was imparted to them by being cured and fired in copper pans. For this belief, however, there is not the slightest foundation in fact, as copper pans are never used for the purpose of firing tea, repeated experiments and unerring tests having been frequently made by competent experts, but [22] [23] not even in a single instance has any trace of that metal been found in them. (Japan Tea Plant.) JAPAN TEAS. In color, flavor and character, Japan Teas are totally distinct from any and all other varieties of Tea known to commerce. They are divided into Panfired, Sundried and Basketfired Teas and Nibs, but are frequently converted into Oolongs, Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gunpowder and Young Hyson makes. [24] [25] (Curing Tea.) Panfired Japan—Is a medium-sized green-leaf Tea, well-curled and presenting an unbroken appearance. It yields a bright clear liquor which remains unchanged in color until quite cold, and possesses a flavor delicate but fragrant in odor. The medium grades, however, are rougher in make, darker in liquor and duller in flavor, while the commoner ones are coarse and unsightly in style, varying in color and somewhat “brassy” or metallic in flavor. Sundried Japan—Derive their trade-name from being dried in the sun before firing, in order to fix their color more permanently. The leaf is of an olive-green color, small and compactly curled, and the liquor what is known as “toasty” in flavor owing to their thorough fermentation before firing. The lower grade range from a yellowish to a dull-green in color, indifferently made and often “fishy” in taste from the use of fish manure in cultivating. Basketfired Japan—Is so called from being cured in baskets over a slow fire. The finer grades are long, dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, clear and bright in the infusion and mellow or “mealy” in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for blending with Oolong in the proportions of one part to four of Oolong, or almost any variety into which they are introduced. (Firing Tea.) [26] [27]