Patternmaking for Fashion Design Helen Joseph-Armstrong Fifth Edition ISBN 10: 1-292-02481-X ISBN 13: 978-1-292-02481-3 Pearson Education Limited Edinburgh Gate Harlow Essex CM20 2JE England and Associated Companies throughout the world Visit us on the World Wide Web at: www.pearsoned.co.uk © Pearson Education Limited 2014 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without either the prior written permission of the publisher or a licence permitting restricted copying in the United Kingdom issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6–10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS. All trademarks used herein are the property of their respective owners. The use of any trademark in this text does not vest in the author or publisher any trademark ownership rights in such trademarks, nor does the use of such trademarks imply any affi liation with or endorsement of this book by such owners. ISBN 10: 1-292-02481-X ISBN 13: 978-1-292-02481-3 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Printed in the United States of America 1111122221356803472471717597731537 P E A R S O N C U S T O M L I B R AR Y Table of Contents 1. Patternmaking Essentials for the Workroom Helen Joseph Armstrong 1 2. Form Measurements and Figure Analysis Helen Joseph Armstrong 25 3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set Helen Joseph Armstrong 43 4. Dart Manipulation Helen Joseph Armstrong 77 5. Designing with Darts Helen Joseph Armstrong 111 6. Stylelines Helen Joseph Armstrong 137 7. Added Fullness Helen Joseph Armstrong 151 8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks Helen Joseph Armstrong 167 9. Contouring Helen Joseph Armstrong 185 10. Collars Helen Joseph Armstrong 209 11. Built-Up Necklines Helen Joseph Armstrong 237 12. Cowls Helen Joseph Armstrong 247 13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades Helen Joseph Armstrong 273 I 334444455566677778481247913724523460937973757351733573 14. Sleeves Helen Joseph Armstrong 349 15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes Helen Joseph Armstrong 383 16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings Helen Joseph Armstrong 417 17. Plackets and Pockets Helen Joseph Armstrong 429 18. Dresses Without Waistline Seams Helen Joseph Armstrong 447 19. Strapless Foundation and Interconstruction Helen Joseph Armstrong 473 20. Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses Helen Joseph Armstrong 497 21. Shirts Helen Joseph Armstrong 515 22. Women's Jackets and Coats Helen Joseph Armstrong 537 23. Men's Wear Helen Joseph Armstrong 573 24. Capes and Hoods Helen Joseph Armstrong 625 25. Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs Helen Joseph Armstrong 641 26. Pants Helen Joseph Armstrong 657 27. Knits---Stretch and Shrinkage Factors Helen Joseph Armstrong 723 28. Knit Top Foundations Helen Joseph Armstrong 733 29. Activewear for Dance and Exercise Helen Joseph Armstrong 745 30. Swimwear Helen Joseph Armstrong 767 31. Introduction to Childrenswear Helen Joseph Armstrong 803 II 888889991235701115917135 32. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set: Measurement Taking and Standard Measurement Charts Helen Joseph Armstrong 811 33. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts Helen Joseph Armstrong 825 34. Dresses and Jumpers Helen Joseph Armstrong 839 35. Tops Helen Joseph Armstrong 851 36. Pants and Jumpsuits Helen Joseph Armstrong 877 37. Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear Helen Joseph Armstrong 901 38. Bibliographic Credits Helen Joseph Armstrong 913 Index 915 III This page intentionally left blank Patternmaking Essentials for the Workroom PATTERNMAKING TOOLS Functions of Patternmaking Tools Guide to Reading Ruler Increments The Importance of Math PATTERN PAPER PATTERNMAKING TERMS FABRIC TERMS PATTERN GRAINLINE DART BLENDING,TRUEING,AND EQUALIZING SPECIAL INFORMATION Balance Line Terms Styleline Guides THE WAY WE WERE PRODUCTION TERMS BODY SCANNING COMPUTER COMPANIES LAST,BUT NOT LEAST E-FIT SIMULATOR IS BORN APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT COST SHEET PATTERN CHART DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS SHEET From Chapter 1 of Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5/e. Helen Joseph-Armstrong. Copyright © 2010 by Pearson Education. Published by Prentice Hall. All rights reserved. PATTERNMAKING ESSENTIALS FOR THE WORKROOM PATTERNMAKING TOOLS To work efficiently, the patternmaker must have the proper tools and supplies. To communicate effectively in the workroom and to minimize errors due to misunderstanding, the patternmaker should know and under- stand terminology. This chapter introduces tools, supplies, and definitions of terms used in industry. The professional patternmaker arrives on the job with all tools required for patternmaking. Each tool should be marked with an identity symbol and transported in a carrying case. Tools may be purchased from apparel supply houses, art stores, department stores, and yardage stores. Specialized tools, such as a rabbit punch used to punch pattern holes for hanger hooks, are generally supplied by the manufacturer. 1. Straight pins: 24 23 ___ Dressmaker silk #17 for draping and 22 fittings. MADEINU.S.A.2021 2. Straight pin holder: 19 Straightpinsandcushion 18 ___ Pincushion, or magnetic holder for wrist 17 or table. 16 15 3. Scissors: 14 13 ___ Paper scissors. 12 ___ Fabric scissors. 11 10 4. Pencils and pens: 9 8 ___ M#4e-cHh laenaidc aflo pr epnacttile rann dw oshrka.r)pener. (Use Mechanicalpencilandsharpener COLDSPRING.NEWYORK675 ___ Red and blue colored pencils to identify 4 pattern changes. Black, green, red, and 45 3 2 blue felt-tip pens for pattern information. 1 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 5. Rulers: ___ Flex general rule—1/2 ×12-inch (very 24 24 accurate). 23 23 22 22 ______ 3168- ×in2c-hin rcuhle pr.lastic rule (flexible for 2021 102-CA 2021 ___ Tmwmaieeitlaahoss ruut’wsrr iesonsq ,ga ur rcaumurleers—sv f,e o2asr)n4m. d×i ns1qg4u -aai nr9ec0sh° amnegtlael trhualetr 1110 Frenchcurve 13141516171819COLDSPRNI.G 17161814511931MADEINU.S.A. simultaneously. 98 12 21 ___ Triangle with measurements to square 7 11 11 lines. 65 019 019 8 4 8 6. Curve rules: 7 3 7 ___ French curve, Deitzgen #17 is one of 2 65 6C-001 several curves used for shaping armhole 11 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 4 5 and neckline. Square/triangle 321 0 43 Varyformcurve 2 ___ Sleigh curve, shapes necklines, armholes 1 and other curves, pockets, collars, and 0 cuffs. Hipcurve rule ___ Hip curve rule to shape hipline, hem, lapels. ___ Vary form curve to blend and shape armhole necklines. Sleighcurve 2 PATTERNMAKING ESSENTIALS FOR THE WORKROOM 7. Hanger hooks or ringers: ___ To hold patterns together while hanging on rods. Hanger 8. Push pins: hook ___ For pattern manipulation and transferring Ringer muslin patterns to paper. 9. Stapler and remover: ___ Prevents pattern slippage when cutting several plys of paper together. 10. Magic mend scotch tape: ___ To mend pattern work. 11. Black twill tape: ___ Placement of stylelines on form and to hold ease in place. 12. Notcher: ___ Cuts a 1/4 ×1/16-inch opening at the pattern’s edge to indicate seam allowance, center lines, and ease notches and to identify front and back of patterns. 13. Tracing wheels: ___ Pointed wheel transfers pattern shapes to paper. ___ Blunted wheel is used with carbon paper to transfer pattern shapes to muslin. 14. Awl: ___ Pierces 1/8-inch hole in the pattern to 1 2 indicate the ending of darts, pocket, trim, and buttonhole placements. 15. Metal weights (several): Metal tape ___ Hold patterns in place for tracing and 5 marking. 4 16. Measuring tape—60 inches long: ___ Metal-tipped, linen or plastic to measure the form. Metric is on the other side. ___ Metal tape 1/4 inch wide inside a dispenser. It is convenient, flexible, and very accurate. 17. Tailor’s chalk: ___ Clay, chalk, chalk wheel, or chalk marking pencils in black and white. Use for marking adjusted seams and stylelines. 18. Simflex folding measure: ___ Spaces button/button holes, pleats, tucks. 3