OgdenJacket.qxp:Layout 1 6/8/11 1:10 PM Page 1 (cid:3) $30.00in U.S.A. H $34.50in Canada £20.00in U.K. O (continued from front flap) L memorable meals for the most special occasions, I HOLIDAY D Chef Ogden takes the guesswork out of holiday A preparationwith day-by-day planning guidesfor Y (cid:2)DINNE(cid:2)RS smooth preparation for each holiday feast. D wiƒ Chef Ogden has collaborated with his son I N Bryan who created wonderful wine pairings that N BRADLEY complement many of the dishes throughout the E book. And with Ogden’s focus on responsible R OGDEN cooking, he includes information on buying sus- COOKING / HOLIDAY S w tainable local ingredients. Your holiday meals may never be the same. i The festive recipes here improve on the fa- ƒ Superbly illustrated, Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden has taken American classics and modernized By Chef Bradley Ogden miliar and are sure to make your celebrations a them in thoroughly intelligent and innovative ways. This genuine American chef from the Midwest B with Lydia Scott success. Happy hol(cid:3)idays and bon appétit! has never been better than in this straightforward, honest, and splendid homage to American cuisine. R T —JACQUES PÉPIN, Chef, cookbook author, and PBS-TV cooking series host RADITIONAL, ACCESSIBLE, A HOLIDAY DINNERS wiƒ and creative, Bradley Ogden’s recipes reflect a lifetime of real cooking. Eating at any of Bradley Ogden’s restaurants has always felt like a celebration. D BRADLEY OGDEN BRADLEY OGDEN “These recipes are important to me. They are So a holiday cookbook from Bradley is ideal. And if you aren’t a personal friend who is lucky enough to be (cid:2) (cid:2) Auth is a renowned and award- invited to Bradley’s own home for the holidays, Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogdenis the next L what I like to eat, and I would be honored to or ph wfoiunnndinerg o f cthhee fL aarkn dC receok- best thing: You get to cook his recipes and serve them to your guests as your own holiday creations! E 150 FESTIVE RECIPES reinvigorate someone’s holiday feast and intro- oto duce tempting new flavors with my recipes,” © Restaurant Group. His Je career began at the Culi- —WOLFGANG PUCK Y TO BRING FAMILY & FRIENDS TOGETHER says Chef Ogden. remy nary Institute of America wiƒ Holiday gatherings involve an abundance of Ball in New York. Upon grad- Bradley Ogden has always had a culinary genius for all things Americana, O LYDIA SCOTT food and warm celebrations, and sharing a great uation Bradley was the meal is one of life’s richest experiences. The com- but this book exemplifies his truly unique talent—celebrating holiday cooking! Bradley is a recipient of the Richard T. Keating Award given to the G pany of friends and family is so important, but spiritual heir to the late, great James Beard, and this magnificent book showcases why! student most likely to succeed. He has been the recip- the food should be outstanding too. With that in ient of many awards including the James Beard Best —CHARLIE TROTTER, Chef & Owner of Restaurant Charlie Trotter’s D mind,Chef Ogden stresses two goals:offering Chef: California, James Beard Best Restaurant in exciting yet familiar recipes that combine the America for Bradley Ogden, Golden Plate Award by E the American Academy of Achievement and Chef of enthusiasm of the new with the comfort of tradi- the Year by the Culinary Institute of America.He N tion, and providing complete holiday menus to lives in Santa Ynez, CA. (cid:3) help you bring it all together so you too can be free to enjoy the holiday and company of your LYDIA SCOTT is the Chef/Owner of EatThisLA family and friends. .com,an online snack company that sells healthy snacks Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden includes and desserts. more than150 cherished recipes for Thanksgiv- ISBN: 978-0-7624-3915-7 ing, Christmas, and New Year’s. With this easy- Visit us on the web! 53000 to-use and delicious guide to making the most www.chefbradleyogden.com www.runningpresscooks.com (continued on back flap) RUNNING 9 780762 439157 PRESS Printed in China 10/11 HOLIDAY DINNERS wiƒ BRADLEY OGDEN (cid:2) (cid:2) 150 FESTIVE RECIPES TO BRING FAMILY & FRIENDS TOGETHER BRADLEY OGDEN wiƒ LYDIA SCOTT RUNNING PRESS PHILADELPHIA • LONDON This book is dedicated to Mom with love © 2011 by Bradley Ogden Photographs © 2011 by Jeremy Ball Published by Running Press, A Member of the Perseus Books Group All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions Printed in China This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system now known or hereafter invented, without written permission from the publisher. Books published by Running Press are available at special discounts for bulk purchases in the United States by corporations, institutions, and other organizations. For more information, please contact the Special Markets Department at the Perseus Books Group, 2300 Chestnut Street, Suite 200, Philadelphia, PA 19103, or call (800) 810-4145, ext. 5000, or e-mail special.markets@ perseusbooks.com. ISBN: 978-0-7624-3915-7 Library of Congress Control Number: 2011928972 E-book ISBN: 978-0-7624-4359-8 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing Cover and interior design by Amanda Richmond Typography: Berkeley, La Portentia, and Gotham Running Press Book Publishers 2300 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19103-4371 Visit us on the web! www.runningpresscooks.com C O N T E N T S 4 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 5 FOREWORD 7 INTRODUCTION 11 THANKSGIVING FEAST 107 CHRISTMAS DINNER 199 NEW YEAR’S DAY CELEBRATION 259 A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT WARM WEATHER HOLIDAYS 270 INDEX 280 ABOUT THE AUTHOR A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S T HIS BOOK IS A CULMINATION OF THREE DECADES OF COOKING FOR THE holidays. These recipes were refined at home in my kitchen and not too long ago just a dream to publish. I would like to thank Lydia Scott for all her dedicated work to make this book and my dream a reality. My editor, Geoffrey Stone, for his guidance, knowledge, and support. My sons Chad and Bryan, also chef graduates from the Culinary Institute of America, and Cory Ogden, the doc- tor of the family, for making me proud. A special thanks to Bryan for his excellent taste and wis- dom of wine and to Jody Ogden for her years of encouragement and expertise. A special thank-you to Maricla Salcido for her support in testing, tasting, organizing, and typing my recipes. I would like to express my deepest gratitude to my close friends, Maria Ferrer Murdock, Michael and Sandy DeRousse, and Carolyn Stuart for their overall influence, advice, patience, and support. Thank you to Jeremy Ball for the photographs, Amanda Richmond for the art direction and book design, Ricardo Jattan and Jackie Prophit for the styling; Sparrow Lane Vine- gars, for continuously supplying their fine wine vinegars; and Wes Hagen for his wine. Finally, I am eternally grateful for the contribution of my fellow chefs from Root 246 Restau- rant, Brian Ridgeway, Yohan Denizot, and Daniel Talaima, and Iris Rideau and John Martino from Chumash Casino Resort, and to my business partners, Michael and Leslye Dellar. And to all my friends and neighbors who volunteered their talents, taste tested my recipes, and offered their helpful and meaningful critiques. (cid:2)4(cid:2) HOLIDAY DINNERS WITH BRADLEY OGDEN F O R E W O R D I T WAS IN THE 1980S WHEN I WAS WORKING WITH THE LATE JAMES BEARD that I first heard of Bradley Ogden. Each year Beard went to San Francisco to conduct a series of classes and always stayed at Campton Place. Without fail, he came back quite impressed with the quality of Bradley’s ingredients, hisuse of inspiredflavors, and hisexquisite execution of the food. Bradley’s upbringing in Michigan unknowingly prepared him for his culinary journey where fresh trout, just-hatched chicken eggs, and his grandmother’s homemade pies were taken for granted. “Food from scratch” would come to form the backbone of his approach to cooking for others. He trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and had come to Califor- nia via The American Restaurant in Kansas City, which was one of the foremost restaurants of its time in the Midwest. In Kansas City, Bradley had utilized local farm purveyors and farmers and brought that same sensibility with him to the West Coast. When Bradley was arriving on the scene, there were other chefs on the same American fresh food band- wagon, each with an individual style. Their menus were driven by the bounty of the season (still a nov- elty in some areas today) with great importance given to the provenance of the produce. It was only a matter of time before this concept began to make an impact around the country. At Beard’s house, where the James Beard Foundation is now located, on West 12th Street in New York City, I witnessed a pilgrim- age of visiting chefs who would drop by to receive the master’s blessing; Bradley was among them. A fewyears ago, Bradley started conceptualizing this book. He envisioned one that celebrated hol- idays throughout the year. It is clear why it covers Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s with a slight nod to summer celebrations. The end-of-the-year holidays are our most cherished ones, and this book allows more concentration and dedication to these holidays. It’s in this spirit he shares an abundance of good food, which connects us to loving friends and family in the kitchen and around a festive table. Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogdenis a comprehensive reference to our three most important holi- days of the year. While paying homage to our traditional holiday menus, Bradley has brought the old into the new with added life and sparkle. He teases us with some non-traditional recipes like his won- derful signature dish, Twice-Baked Blue Cheese Soufflés. This book offers a simplistic approach to timely recipes for you to create for the holidays. It makes holiday cooking even more pleasurable. —CAROLINE STUART, Cofounder James Beard Foundation and cookbook author (cid:2)5(cid:2) FOREWORD I N T R O D U C T I O N P EOPLE HAVE MANY GIFTS IN LIFE—MUSIC, LANGUAGES, PAINTING, and even gab. Mine is a special talent for food. I spent the summers of my youth on my grandmother’s farm in Windsor, Ontario. In retrospect, this was the beginning of a fabulous career that I never could have recognized at the time. Both of my grandmothers were great cooks. I believe my mother was as well, although with seven chil- dren to look after, she seldom had the opportunity to really demonstrate what she knew. My father, on the other hand, considered himself the world’s greatest cook, and was especially known for his breads and homemade ice cream. Of course, the young spindly arms of my six brothers and sister and me were the engine for his churned creations. Nevertheless, to us, it wasn’t about hard labor but rather playing a game, resulting in a reward of creamy fresh flavors, from cherry to peach to strawberry, all of which we felt were awesome. Being around good cooks was important for educating my young palate, but the other even more essential lessons were learned from the farm, regarding the importance of sea- sonal fresh quality ingredients. Every season held a gift of fresh new produce to be picked, prepared, and, most importantly, enjoyed. I vividly remember anticipating certain times of the year for summer tomatoes fresh off the vine, asparagus and morelsin the spring, pumpkin and macintosh apples in the fall. There is nothing more flavorful than the sim- plicity of a farm-fresh egg or a trout taken from an icy creek and placed directly into a siz- zling frying pan. Experiencing and appreciating these pure unadulterated tastes and flavors unwittingly helped lay the foundation for my cooking philosophy and successful career. There is no exception to my love of all things fresh from the farm. These days that means regular visits to my local farmers’ market to buy seasonal items, and purchasing organic and sustainable produce and meats. It’s the best way to get the fresh flavors I remember so well from childhood. Still, when I come across cherries I have mixed feelings of love and dread. I’m sure this came from overexposure, brought out by the fact that I had to spend endless hours picking them in my youth. Fortunately, I’ve long ago learned to appreciate cherries for what they are, and find great satisfaction in cooking with them, as long as I don’t have to pick ’em! (cid:2)7(cid:2) INTRODUCTION Churning ice cream might have been the extent of my culinary career except for the fact that my father read a feature in the Detroit Free Pressabout a cooking school called The Culinary Institute of America, based in Hyde Park, New York. I was only eighteen at the time, but from the CIA article, my father developed a plan. His logic was simple: “If you can cook, you can always find a job!” Another ulterior motive might have had something to do with someday owning a family restaurant. Up until this time, he had owned and operated a rock-and-roll dance hall, named the Tanz Haus. Traverse City, Michigan, might seem an unlikely location for such a venue, but he was able to book the big-name talent of the day, drawing from nearby Detroit. His vision might have been to convert the dance venue to a dining room and kitchen with me as the cook. Instead, it functioned for twenty- five years as a dance hall. Prior to my first days at the CIA, I had never set foot in a commercial kitchen, but by the time I emerged from the CIA four years later, I recognized that I had an innate talent. It was a bit of a fluke that I fell into something I loved. I reflect on it sometimes. I might have been a draftsman, since I had studied drafting for three months. Had it not been for my father’s plan, born out of desperation for fear of unemployment, I might have been just like a musician whose talent never found a stage for lack of piano lessons. In the years since, at every one of the restaurants at which I’ve been involved, we have paid special attention to the holidays. It has become part of my signature, just as farm- fresh, organic ingredients have been my theme for the last thirty-five years. I’ve paid spe- cial attention to holiday meals because they meant a lot to me growing up. In my youth, other than holidays, Sunday afternoon was the only time we, as a family, came together for a meal. All of the other meals of the week were one-pot dishes consumed individually whenever each of us found the time. The food was good, to be sure, but there was no real celebration or intimate sense of family that I love so much. At the restaurants, I constantly strive to create the feeling of a special family meal. Every- day at work, I imagine that patrons are coming to my home for me to cook for them. I always serve expected and traditional foods, prepared with an exciting and creative touch. At Lark Creek, for example, we offered turkeys with a twist for the holidays: fresh, natural turkeys, grilled outdoors or roasted with interesting spices. Always something new, fla- vorful, and exciting delivered continuously to the dining room, which patrons appreciated and devoured. Menus are always prix fixe, and engineered so that each course supported (cid:2)8(cid:2) HOLIDAY DINNERS WITH BRADLEY OGDEN and complemented each other. Never heavy, always fresh, and definitely designed to leave room for dessert. On hearing that I was working on a cookbook about the holidays, a friend pointed out that there were already many resources for holiday recipes, and questioned why anyone should use my recipes versus someone else’s. My reply was that I create amazing American food on a daily basis and that there may be people out there who would like to put a new creative twist on their routine holiday meal. My recipes are tried and true. They are tradi- tional, accessible, and inspiring, and have been lovingly refined and served over a lifetime of real cooking. These recipes are important to me. They are what I like to eat and share. Since they have worked so wonderfully for me in my professional career, I would like to share them with anyone who is interested in my philosophy of cooking. Some of the recipes that appear in this book have been born in restaurants, but all have been tested at my home on equipment found in virtually all homes. I would be honored to reinvigorate someone’s holiday feast and introduce tempting new flavors with my recipes. Some ingredient lists and procedures you will find here might look long and more ambi- tious than other recipes. Where that is true, I invite you to persist. This is the way I cook and you won’t be disappointed. Quality ingredients and certain techniques make the dif- ference between a good recipe and a great one. Where practical, I will point out a recipe or portion of a recipe that might be done in advance, and often it will be the better for it, as flavors will get the opportunity to meld and develop. Inside I am still that little boy who grew up in the Midwest and savors the traditional, down-home flavors of good old American food, and my recipes reflect that. My repertoire has been built on this great country’s food and traditions. I have always strived to improve on the familiar and make it the best it can be. I think you will agree when you prepare these recipes for yourself. Happy holidays, and bon appétit. (cid:2)9(cid:2) INTRODUCTION