Breaking Bread recipes and stories from immigrant kitchens Lynne Christy Anderson Foreword by Corby Kummer Photographs by Robin Radin university of california press berkeley los angeles london The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Simpson Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. Breaking Bread california studies in food and culture Darra Goldstein, Editor Breaking Bread recipes and stories from immigrant kitchens Lynne Christy Anderson Foreword by Corby Kummer Photographs by Robin Radin university of california press berkeley los angeles london University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www .ucpress .edu . University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, En gland © 2010 by Lynne Christy Anderson Photographs © 2010 by Robin Radin Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Anderson, Lynne Christy. Breaking bread : recipes and stories from immigrant kitchens / Lynne Christy Anderson ; foreword by Corby Kummer ; photographs by Robin Radin. p. cm—(California studies in food and culture ; 29) isbn-13: 978- 0- 520- 26257- 7 (cloth : alk. paper) 1. Cookery, International. 2. Food habits—United States. 3. Immigrants—United States—Anecdotes. I. Title. TX725.A1A564 2010 394.1'20973—dc22 2009043911 Manufactured in the United States of America 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ansi/niso z39.48- 1992 (r1997) (Permanence of Paper). For my mother, who instilled in me the pleasures of cooking and eating, and for my father, who taught me to listen to my students This page intentionally left blank There is a communion of more than our bodies when bread is broken and wine drunk. m.f.k. fisher, The Gastronomical Me, 1943