Back to Pakistan Map of Pakistan Back to Pakistan A Fifty-year Journey Leslie Noyes Mass ROWMAN & LITTLEFIELD PUBLISHERS, INC. Lanham • Boulder • New York • Toronto • Plymouth, UK Published by Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.rowmanlittlefield.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Leslie Noyes Mass All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any elec- tronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, with- out written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Noyes Mass, Leslie, 1940- Back to Pakistan : a fifty-year journey / Leslie Noyes Mass. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-4422-1319-7 (hardback : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-1-4422-1321-0 (ebook) 1. Noyes Mass, Leslie, 1940—Travel—Pakistan. 2. Noyes Mass, Leslie, 1940— Diaries. 3. Volunteer workers in education—Pakistan—Biography. 4. Volunteer workers in social service—Pakistan—Biography. 5. Teachers—Training of—Pakistan. 6. Pakistan—Description and travel. 7. Peace Corps (U.S.)—Pakistan—Biography. I. Title. LB2844.1.V6N69 2011 371.10095491—dc23 2011019782 ` ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For George, with me since the beginning, and for the children of Pakistan, with us now and in the future v Contents Acknowledgments ix Prologue xi 1 Arrival in Pakistan, 1962 1 2 Work Assignment, 1962 5 3 The Vision, 1962 11 4 Living Village Life, 1962 19 5 The End of the Beginning, 1962 29 6 Arrival in Pakistan, 2009 35 7 Work Assignment, 2009 43 8 A Clearer Vision, 2009 49 9 An Introduction to The Citizens Foundation 57 10 Setting Up Training, 1963 and 2009 67 11 Behind The Citizens Foundation 79 12 Training in Karachi, 2009 87 13 Arrival in Lahore, 2009 97 14 Training in Lahore, 2009 109 vii viii v Contents 15 Summer Science Camps, Lahore 117 16 The Gymkhana Club, 2009 125 17 Sheikhupura and Dhamke, 2009 135 18 Khanewal and Harappa, 2009 145 19 Leaving Lahore, 2009 157 20 Islamabad: Modern Pakistan 163 21 Hunza: Another Pakistan 173 22 Pakistan: Unfinished Business 189 Notes 197 Index 205 About the Author 211 v Acknowledgments Many people are responsible for the creation of this book and deserve more than thanks—they deserve a medal for forbearance, patience, and humor. Among them, I’d particularly like to acknowledge: Barbara Janes (Taffy) and Nancy Parlin, my Peace Corps friends and trav- eling mates, for their consistently valuable information, advice, and details about our 2009 return trip to Pakistan; The Noorani family—Danial, Karen, Sofia, and all of their Pakistan-based relatives—for their superb organizational skills, lavish meals, and gracious hospitality; Everyone at The Citizens Foundation in Pakistan for sharing their ideal- ism, dedication, and practical experiences with me; My Dhamke families, for welcoming me when I was young and remember- ing me so many years later; Mary and Larry Hasiak, for opening their Florida garret for a quiet place to write; and My patient and loving husband, George, for his encouragement and wise counsel, then and now. I thank you with all my heart. ix