AmericAn Appetites American Appetites A DocumentAry reADer eDiteD by Jennifer Jensen WAllAch AnD linDsey r. sWinDAll The University of Arkansas Press Fayetteville 2014 Copyright © 2014 by The University of Arkansas Press All rights reserved Manufactured in the United States of America ISBN: 978-1-55728-668-0 eISBN: 978-1-61075-550-4 18 17 16 15 14 5 4 3 2 1 Designed by Liz Lester • The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials Z39.48–1984. Library of Congress Control Number:  2014934712 This project was supported in part by the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts. Cover IMAGe: The Faro Caudill family eating dinner in their dugout, Pie Town, New Mexico. Photograph by russell Lee, 1940. Farm Security Administration/office of War Information Color Photographs, Library of Congress, LC-DIG-fsac-1a34105. Cover DeSIGN: Liz Lester For our fathers, Marshall G. Swindall, who taught me to love both cooking and history, and David A. Jensen, who read to me contents Series editor’s Preface xiii Acknowledgments xv Introduction xvii 1 n Foundational Food 3 The Arapaho Learn How to Hunt Buffalo 4 The Iroquois Learn to Grow Beans, Corn, and Squash Together 6 Spanish explorer Francisco vásquez de Coronado encounters Pueblo Food, 1540 8 Athanase de Mézières Describes Wichita Food Habits in eighteenth-Century Texas 9 Antoine-Simon Le Page du Pratz Describes the Food of eighteenth-Century Louisiana 12 engravings by Jacques Le Moyne de Morques Depict Native American Subsistence Strategies in Sixteenth-Century Florida 20 2 n Colonial Culinary Encounters 23 englishman John Gerarde evaluates the Nutritional value of Maize, 1597 24 olaudah equiano Describes the Food of Seventeenth- Century Igbo 26 Alexander Falconbridge Describes the Food of the Middle Passage 28 Colonial Advertisement offering Slaves for Sale Who Had experience Cultivating rice 30 Wahunsonacock Advises the english residents of Jamestown Not to Steal Food from Native Americans 31 Captain John Smith Describes the Starving Time of 1609–1610 33 vii The Colonists at Plimoth Plantation Celebrate Their 1621 Harvest 35 Massachusetts Colonist Mary rowlandson Describes the Food eaten by the Algonquin Who Held Her Captive in 1675 and 1676 37 An Indentured Servant in virginia Begs His Parents for Food, 1623 38 3 n Developing a National Cuisine 41 Cotton Mather Describes religious Fasting, 1683 42 Changing Fireplace Technology 44 Sarah Kemble Knight Describes Dining during a 1704 Journey from Boston to New Haven 46 Cartoon Depicting Colonial response to the British Tax on Tea, 1774 47 New York Coffeehouse, 1797 49 excerpts from the First American Cookbook 50 Benjamin Franklin Gives Advice about eating and Drinking in Poor Richard’s Almanack 52 Thomas Jefferson requests American Food while Living in France 53 Kitchen Inventory at Monticello Created by James Hemings 54 In a Letter to James Monroe, James Madison reacts to Diplomatic Scandal over Dining etiquette 56 4 n Nineteenth-Century Expansion 61 Lydia Maria Child Advises American Women, 1832 62 Memoir of a Wagon Train to California, 1849 65 Cowboys eating on the range 70 Song about John Chinaman, 1850s 71 Laguna Pueblo Women Grinding Corn 72 rose Wilder Lane’s Memoir of Life in the West, 1880s 73 5 n Foodways during Enslavement and War 79 recipes and Advice for Southern Cooks, 1824 80 Frederick Douglass recalls Childhood Hunger, 1845 84 viii CoNTeNTS Harriet Jacobs’s Memoir, 1861 88 Diary of a Soldier from Illinois, 1862 92 Bread riot in richmond, 1863 93 Lincoln Declares a Day of National Thanksgiving, 1863 94 Union officers Dining in the Field, 1864 97 recipes and Counsel for Southern Women after the War, 1867 98 6 n Eating in an Age of Decadence and Empire 101 Criticism of Conspicuous Consumption, 1903 102 Dinner Party etiquette in 1877 103 The Nation Magazine Comments on the “Servant Problem” 106 Dinner at Delmonico’s 109 Advice on How to Achieve the Ideal Body Type in the Nineteenth Century 110 Lillian russell: A Nineteenth-Century Beauty 113 Italian Foodways expand the American Palate 114 Jewish Immigrants Import Kosher Food Practices 116 Food vendors in New York City 117 Captain Frank N. Moore Testifies about the Quality of Military Food Supplies during the Spanish American War 119 Taft Banquet Highlights US Imperial Interests 121 7 n Food and Social Reform in the Progressive Era 123 John Harvey Kellogg Gives Dietary Advice to Adolescent Girls 124 Upton Sinclair Publicizes Unsanitary Conditions in Meat-Processing Facilities 125 A Multiethnic Dinner Party in the Age of Immigration 128 Catherine e. Beecher and Harriet Beecher Stowe Advocate for the Training of Housewives 129 Pearl Idelia ellis Argues that Dietary reform Can Aid in Assimilation and end Crime 132 CoNTeNTS ix